Hi There,
I have replaced the Primary Oxygen Sensor Heater on my 93 h22a prelude with a oem style bosch, after I had code # 41.

It ran fine for 3-4 weeks

Now, as I start, when the Engine is cold, the Check Engine Indicator lighs, then after I shut down the Engine and restart again the problem disappears. It happens only on the first start, when the engine is cold.
What might be the reason for that? Incompatible Sensor?
Now it continues to stay on whether the engine is cold or hot?
Please Advise.
Thank You

And yes ive tried taking out the radio fuse and disconnecting my battery.
I also paid $115 for this o2 sensor

Thanks Rob

 

should i replace after a short month all the wires are good at 10-40amps and i need to know if NTK/NGK or denso or beck arnley or used oem?

I heard bosch sucks anyone know?

 

anyone?

 

ttt

 

I had the same issue with mny knock sensor. It ran fine for a couple weeks after replacing it. Then the CEL came back. Under the hood is a sub harness it has 4 wires. One is for the knock sensor, also one is for the O2 primary. It will be near the fuse box. It might be loose connection , mine looked like it was loose. I did not discover this until after running a new wire LOL.

 

any pictures of this connector?

 

Sounds like wiring. Possibly the IC inside the ECU, but I'd make sure the wiring is sound, and if so borrow a different ECU and see if it still does it. Good luck.

 

sorry , no pics. If your harness is still factory, meaning you have not done a wire tuck or anything it should be near your fuse box. It has 4 wires, 2 different shades of brown wires a red/blue which is the knock sensor and a white.

 

I swapped my O2 sensor a few months back with a Bosch and a month later the same code popped back up. Exchanged the new Bosch with a Denso and light has been off since. IMO Bosch O2 sensors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by no1knows908 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Exchanged the new Bosch with a Denso and light has been off since. IMO Bosch O2 sensors </TD></TR></TABLE>

I should try that as for the ecu its an h22a chipped p14 and no one in oklahoma has that

and for the wiring everything is tucked and so im just going to replace the 02 with denso or ngk

Ill let you guys know

 

shyts man....my CEL through code 41...i know what it is...just dont know where it is...ahahhaha...97 gsr...anyone have any idea? ahahhaa

 

I've had problems with bosch.. I had one work for only about 2 months. I just took it back to the store and they replaced it.. I think the bosch have 12 month free replacement

 

Mileage really matters little to the engine or transmission. There are plenty of 2.2s & 2.3s with well over 200,000 miles on them that still run like new and have never had major work done. But oil changes are very important to the car. If the oil isn't changed on time (3,000 miles, always use either a Mann, Bosch, or Audi OEM filter) the hydraulic lifters will tick like crazy. This is caused by lower oil pressure than is needed to fully pump up the lifters. Lifter tick isconsidered normal for up to about a minute after start-up. The clutch should, if not abused, be good until almost 200,000 miles. The manual tranie itselfhas Audi 5000 internals and is known for being next to indestructible. But beware of problems with the 3-spd auto (not avail for quattro) Basically a bad internal design causes the seal between the differential section and the automatic section to overheat, bake hard and then leak. The trans then begins to swap fluids in one direction or the other....90w gear oil gets into the automatic, or ATF gets into the diff.