Is -10 overkill?

 

I use -10. Works great. No noticable loss in oil pressure. I'm over 80 psi above 3500 rpm.

Warren

 

I think -10 is THE way to go...I use it in mine...no problems at all...pressures are A OK.

Look in my sig for pics of the install.....I was at VIR this weekend in 95+ air temps...oil stayed below 250 degrees....I was VERY happy with that.

Cheers'

 

is a oil thermastat needed with an oil cooler??

 

Not on a track car. Just use cardboard to block part of it off if it's too effective in cold weather.

An oil thermostat is just another thing that can go wrong.

Warren

 

so a thermastate helps the car starting in cold weather?

 

Not really. It keeps the oil at the best operating temperature (around 100 deg. c), by routing it to the cooler if it's too hot, or bypassing the cooler if it's too cool. If the oil gets too cool, it gets more viscous (thicker) and robs power. If it gets too hot it doesn't lubricate any more.

 

oh ok thanks
it just acts like an coolant thermastat

so would it cost any problems to start if the weather is like - 25 degrees out side??

 

Like Warren said, just eliminate air blowing directly at the cooler in cold weather with duct tape or cardboard and you'll reach normal operating temps. Cover it in winter, uncover it in summer.

Go with -10 hose.


[Modified by Track rat, 6:45 PM 7/9/2002]

 

hehe, if ur car is running which means it's already started, does it matter?? will the car stall if the oil temp goes down?

i was just saying STARTING the car when i wake up in the morning.. hehehe
so cardboard or not, doesn't matter

 

If your car sits over night in cold temps, the oil will likely be the same temp at start up regardless if you have a cooler or not. A good synthetic oil will still flow well in cold temps through the cooler, lines and engine at start up.

The concern lies in driving around town with a warm engine and overcooled oil, covering up the cooler helps prevent this. Cold, thick, viscous oil will not flow as well to vital parts at high RPMs. This is why VTEC is programmed not to engage if your oil (or coolant) is too cold. Most engines like 180 - 200 degree oil. Synthetics claim good protection up to 300 deg, but most racers like to keep it under 250, hence the need for auxillary coolers if you run it at track events or race it.


[Modified by Track rat, 7:18 PM 7/9/2002]


[Modified by Track rat, 7:20 PM 7/9/2002]

 

anyone remember this?

http://www.sonic.net/~abwc/jeff/heat/oilcooler.html

 

That's Adrian Teo's setup, and it's the basic layout that used, because he was smart and used straight AN fittings. I don't like that oil cooler though.

Warren

 

Dude...if this is a street car....just get a thermostat...especially if you are in -25 degree weather. A good thermostat will only add about 50 bucks to your install. My install is a WORST case as far as price goes. I put a stat on mine so I could just get in and drive and not have to deal with card board or anything. Now I agree with Warren 100%...if it is a race car don't bother with a stat.

BUT I get the impression this is your driver/racer

just my 2 cents

 

Thanks for the tips guys. The car is race only and I live in So. Cal so I will probably skip the thermostat. I think I'm going to go with a Mocal or Setrab cooler and definately -10 lines.

 

Both of these statements are incorrect!


I think you two have misunderstood oil viscosity. Oil viscosity is it's thickness, or "strength".
Oil viscosity reatings:
0-30W
5-30W
10-30W

The first # indicate the viscosity at low tempuratures, the second # indicates the viscosity at operating tempersture.
So 5-30W has a lowest viscosity of 5, and it's highest voscosity is 30.

Thus, As engine oil heats up, its viscosity rises, which means IT GETS THICKER.

There are two reasons for this:
1) As the enigne starts, a thinner viscosity is needed to quickly deliver the oil to moving parts.
2) As the heated moving parts expand and increase their lubrication needs, the oil becomes more viscous (thicker), which promotes a more impregnable layer or "film" that forms in between the parts.

All of this is documented in August's issue of Hot Rod Magazine. The back of an oil container may even explain this.

Just trying to staighten things out here, I mean no disrespect.

 

I don't think you are right on that. All oils get thinner as they get warmer. The viscosity rating that shows oil getting a higher viscosity at higher temperatures means that it gets less thin, not that it gets thicker. Similarly, if the oil is rated to be lower viscosity at low temps, that means that it doesn't thicken as much as it normally would, but it does still get thicker.

If oil got thicker as it got hotter, then your oil pressure guage would show higher pressure as you warmed up, but that is definitely not the case. Oil pressure drops a lot as you warm up. And doing an oil change when the oil is warm is because it will flow better, not because it is getting thicker and flowing less.




[Modified by Gansan, 5:33 PM 7/12/2002]

 

Motor oil is a liquid, just like any other, and when it gets hotter, it gets thinner, and when it gets colder, it gets thicker. As the oil cools down, the molecules become less energetic, and start to slow down, resulting in a fluid that will not poor well. Eventually, if the temp drops low enough, the oil would freeze, just like any other liquid, and it would stop moving all together.

However, I would agree that the viscosity rating on the container may lead someone to this backwards conclusion.

BTW, would one also recommend a -10 line for a remote oil filter as well?