Whats up, This question is for all the master swap guys on hondatech. I just got a swap done on my car by Top Setup in Palatine Il. Its a JDM d15b vtec, its a obd1 motor but still using obd0. The d15b came from auto car and was installed in a 90 civic hatch 5spd. I am using a usdm crx si ECU and a MSD Rev switch to activate vtec. O.k, my car seems to hesitate of the line or in low revs. I took it back to Top Setup and he said that maybe one of the injectors could be clouged and suggested to add a fuel system cleaner. Its been a week since and still no big improvement. So I called him yesterday and told him that it was still giving me that symptom , he said it needs to be converted into obd1 for it to properly run. Does that sound right or is this guy trying to make some more money of me? I also noticed he didn't use a resistor box for the injectors. please help

 

theres your probelm right there.your car will never run like it should untill u convert to obd1 and use a p28.the crx si ecu doesnt have dual maps and wasnt made to run a vtec motor(it will run it)but not like a p28 would.one wire vtec is for dumbass that cant do **** the right way so they decide TO HACK into there vtec with one wire to make it work.and anyways why didnt the shop who did the swap convert it?


IMO i cant belive a shop would do your car that way. how much did u pay them top do the swap?and ive seen worse i had a kid pay 300 for a b16 zdyne ecu that was a chiped pm8 (hf ecu) and they told him to run one wire vtec.oh and he sent them a pr3 as a core.

 

The guy at the shop is telling you the truth. The correct way for that engine to be run is using an obd1 computer and wiring setup.

He was also correct to NOT use the resistor box, because if he used the OBD-1 injectors, they are high impedance, and therefor dont need a resistor box.

The moral of the story is the guy at the shop clearly knows whats up.. so you should go with it..

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IMO i cant belive a shop would do your car that way. how much did u pay them top do the swap?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My guess is that the OP wanted to do the swap as cheaply as possible, and the shop owner obliged and gave him the 1-wire vtec setup... and here we are..

 

yea, no resistor box on obd1 injectors sounds correct to me, but what if the car would studer during accelaration. Not hesitate, studer.

 

dude, obd1, p28, headache gone.

 

Got it, thanks nfereorhatch

 

wait.. did the OP switch nicks halfway through? or Purple, were you just having the same issue?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My guess is that the OP wanted to do the swap as cheaply as possible, and the shop owner obliged and gave him the 1-wire vtec setup... and here we are.. </TD></TR></TABLE>


see where being cheap got him!

 

Im the one with the problem. I was at work and not around a computer, so I asked mugencx if he could post that for me. Sorry for the confusion.

I should of converted to obd1 from the beginning. I didnt know it would run that way, Im going to convert to obd1. ASAP Hopefully it runs better.

 

i got a chipped po6 if u want it?i can also put any program u want on a chip plus send u a second chip with stock z6 maps.

 

Well it seems i found the problem. I replaced the original spark plug wires that came with the engine with some ngk's, and I get no more studdering. Now I can finally enjoy whipping around town.

Thanks for your help eveybody.

 

glad your stuttering went away.

You still have the larger issue of not running an ECU or fuel maps that are correct for your setup. Listen to everyone about the OBD1 conversion and P28 ECU.

 

Oh yea! Forgot to mention I did that too. I tried that before I swapped the plug wires thinking that could be the problem, but it still acted up.
Its now converted to obd1 and I'm using a p28
Any body in the chi need a obdo si ecu or a distributer.

 

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Its now converted to obd1 and I'm using a p28
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