This view of this diagram is looking into the connector on the ENGINE SIDE, NOT the backside where the wires enter the connector.

First connector has 14 pins and is labeled "6P" - female connector
__________________________________________________ _
------ 1. CYP M ------ 2. TDC M ------ 3. CKP M ------

- 4. INJ1 ----- 5. INJ2 ------- 6. INJ3 -------- 7. INJ2 --

- 8. IACV -----9. TPS ------ 10. SG2 ------ 11. LG1 --

-----12. CYP P ------13. TDC P -------14. CKP P
__________________________________________________ ___

_________________________________________
Next is a 4 pin connector labeled "Y04"

---- 1. LG2 ------- 2. Primary O2 ----

---- 3. PO2 Heat -- 4. Knock Sensor ----
____________________________________________


__________________________________________________ _________________
Next Connector is labeled "P - 9" and has 14 pins - Male connector

---- 1. Rad Fan Ctrl ----- 2. Oil sending unit ----- 3. ICM ----

4. ICM (blue) ---- 5. Alt Ctrl -------- 6. Fan/PS switch ground --- 7. PG2

8. ????? ---- 9. ALT (wt/red) ----- 10. ALT (wt/blue) ------ 11. VSS

----12. VCC2 (TPS) ------13. IGP2/IGP1 -------- 14. Dead Plug Ground
__________________________________________________ _________________

__________________________________________________ _______________________
Next connector is labeled "P1" and has 10pins

----- 1. Reverse light (female) ------ 2. Reverse light (male) -------3. IAT

4. ECT -----5. Front Fan switch (water neck) ----- 6. VCC1 (MAP) ------ 7. MAP

----- 8. IAB ----------- 9. PS switch ------------ 10. X
__________________________________________________ ________________________

 

Does IGP2/IGP1 connection supply switched +12V in the engine bay then? I need to connect a device and I don't really want to go into passanger compartment.

 

The supply voltage on that connector is not a good place to distribute power from, it would be much better to just run the device off of some other switch power. The best option would be to run a relay off of some switch power, there are probably some open terminals on your fuse box that you can connect to or if the device draws a lot of current you can use that to switch a relay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does IGP2/IGP1 connection supply switched +12V in the engine bay then? I need to connect a device and I don't really want to go into passanger compartment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Speedra500 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The supply voltage on that connector is not a good place to distribute power from, it would be much better to just run the device off of some other switch power. The best option would be to run a relay off of some switch power, there are probably some open terminals on your fuse box that you can connect to or if the device draws a lot of current you can use that to switch a relay.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed, these are most likely switched on thru the ecu, and it is going to have a pretty low max current output, so you don't want to be robbing the other things it feeds.

 

get it.

 

i think it really depends on what you are wanting to hookup. a vafc runs strictly off the ecu and doesnt appear to have any negative effects.

If you are going to do it that way, i would find a sensor that you no longer use (but still receives power) and does not have an effect on fueling/ignition. You just dont want to find the ecu struggling to power its components.

 

The vafc power is supplied elsewhere, but unless Honda pulled something odd, they won't have routed that same power feed up to the shocktower, they probably came thru the ecu.

The power wire you hook up to for teh vafc also is a main power for the ecu, and is on a 10A fuse at least.

 

I was thinking about the wideband controller LC-1...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking about the wideband controller LC-1...</TD></TR></TABLE>

i have always just hooked it up to the battery. I take it this is a permanent install?

 

Yes, it is. I'd prefer switched as I'm not happy with the constant battery drain. Of course if you don't mean the installation with the relay.
Another good source of switched power is the black-yellow wire going to the dizzy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, it is. I'd prefer switched as I'm not happy with the constant battery drain. Of course if you don't mean the installation with the relay.
Another good source of switched power is the black-yellow wire going to the dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i understand. You'll burn out the sensor if you leave it in the exhaust and not have it powered.

Its possible to run a switch between the battery and the control unit. turn it on when you turn the car on. That way you will never have a voltage fluctuation and throw off your readings.

 

Don't know if it gonna help my offset reading as I connected it direct to the battery last time and got a bit different readings in Neptune and LogWorks. And what's funny I have recalculated the voltage formula and Neptune was right... Unless the formula is different

 

are you using the Primary o2 for datalogging? i think i remember your thread on hrtuning....

if you use ELD, you can use the stock configurations for the LC-1 in neptune.

the whole problem with using the primary o2 it can only accept like 3.8v, iirc. with ELD, you can use the whole range since it uses 5v. You will have to disable ELD in neptune to use it.

 

I have rewired it to the ELD input. Made one common ground for all LC-1's grounds on the engine block (on the thermostat housing) and I'm still off like 0.8 AFR between LogWorks and Neptune. Kinda wierd. I could of course straighten this up with the offset setting but I'd rather find the proper connections out.

 

have you tried any different grounds?

 

Not yet. I'm a bit fed up with this... In May will be a year as my car is standing still :/
i could try a direct ground connection to battery though. Will never have better ground

 

Just an idea for an underhood switched power supply that you could use:

The abs pump gets a very high output supply, so you could figure out which wire that is, and use it for power, or if you're really concerned, use that as the relay wire and then supply straight off the battery