can anyone tell me how to calculate the spring ratio of skunk 2 drop springs?

front tender = 123
front main = 520

rear tender = 106
rear main = 291

been searching and really cant find a definate answer on if these springs are any good. everyone always says to go with ground control coil overs, or always say that the skunk coil overs are way to stiff. im asking about the lowering springs. i already bought them, got them about 6 months ago, before i started researching them. so im curious on what everyone thingks. i dont want coil overs, so please dont tell me i should of got some gc coilovers.

 

Bump

 

you can't really, there was a thread talking about it, but the only way to figure it out is to dyno the springs.

 

alright thanks for clearing that bit up for me. how about the ride and handling of these springs with a decent set of shocks?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Frickr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can anyone tell me how to calculate the spring ratio of skunk 2 drop springs?

front tender = 123
front main = 520

rear tender = 106
rear main = 291

been searching and really cant find a definate answer on if these springs are any good. everyone always says to go with ground control coil overs, or always say that the skunk coil overs are way to stiff. im asking about the lowering springs. i already bought them, got them about 6 months ago, before i started researching them. so im curious on what everyone thingks. i dont want coil overs, so please dont tell me i should of got some gc coilovers.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lowering springs including tender springs? Thats new.

Total rate for springs in series are calculated as
(Main * Tender) / (Main + Tender)
which produces a mere 100 lbs/in for your initial front rate, and is lower than stock.

You sure those are really tender springs, and not helper springs? If the weaker springs are fully coil bound at ride height, then they're helper springs, and don't factor into the final spring rate.

The static weight of the car, the initial free length, the length at full coil bind on the tender springs, and the motion ratio, will determine at what bump displacement your rate changes from the combined softer rate to the stiffer main spring rate.

 

i just got those numbers off the skunk2 websight. i dont know anything when it comes to tuning a suspention setup. but if they are really lower then the stock springs, i may as well get rid of them huh?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TunerN00b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Lowering springs including tender springs? Thats new.

Total rate for springs in series are calculated as
(Main * Tender) / (Main + Tender)
which produces a mere 100 lbs/in for your initial front rate, and is lower than stock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

While that looks great on paper, it does NOT work in reality. I tested both my tender and main springs, they were both right on with what was marked. I think tested them together, and plotted it. Later i found that formula posted, and did the math. It doesn't come out right, not really even close.

The rate is some what progressive until the tender spring is dead, then it is the main spring.

 

i talked to a skunk2 tech guy and he gave me the same numbers, and i told him that if you use the (tender * main) / (tender+ main) that it is under 100 lbs/in and he says that he doesnt trust my formula.