I was going to respond to your post, but it was "locked". Here's some info-

I have the same year/engine (1994/F22b2). I hope you have the manual like I do, and not the auto-

First, I have had mine since new, about 108K now. This year had noisy valves, they tend to get out of adjustment easy. First, get a good manual if you are going to keep the car. I recommend the Helms manual, well worth the money (more/better diagrams, better procedure outlays, etc.) Study the procedure for valve adjustment carefully. Make damned sure you know what you're doing before adjsuting the valves. You will need a set of long/angled feeler gauges to adjust the valves w/o going crazy, some of the rear valves are a real bitch to get to

Roll the engine to TDC and check all the valves at that "station". Get a feel for the TIGHTEST one. The manual says to adjust to "an easy tension on the blade". No. You want a medium-hard tension, it should feel relatively "tight" without binding as you pull the blade out. This is why I say check all the valves at station one first- one will still be probably on. Match the other valves at station one to match the tightest one. Setting valves is somewhat of an art-it is a "feel" that takes time to develop.

As per the manual, roll the cam through the other stations and carefully set the valve lash. Make sure the "tension" on the blade is equal for all valves at each station. Take note- I have the same head, and some of the valves at the back (exhaust) are slightly hard to get the blade into. Be patient. Take your time.

When you are done, you are not done, not with this head. Roll the cam through 12-15 revolutions, then back to TDC, then again through the other stations. Recheck as you go, I can GUARANTEE at least 1-2 of the valves will feel slightly off. Readjust them as you go. This is "perfectionism", something techs will not do, but this head is picky as hell, the lash is not easy to set, and sometimes they come loose very easily.

Be sure to replace the valve cover gasket with a new one, a "kit" that has the plug seals and also the nut-seals. They get old/stiff with time and will start leaking.

This should cure the valve-noise. If you do it RIGHT they should really quiet down. If you are positive they are right, and you still have valve-noise, you should run a compression check to see if the problem is with the valves (most probable). The 1994-1997 had bullet-proof bottom ends (if the oil was changed regularly), but had a bad rep for valve guides and seals. If you are a good mechanic, and it's guides/seals, you could have the head reworked for about $600, good as new.

My f22b2 has 108K. The bottom end is very, very tight, but I have valve-noise, and I keep my oil changed religeously and the valves dialed in perfectly. Due to the valve headaches, I am pulling the engine this spring to go through it (forged pistons, etc), and I will definitely be upgrading the valves/guides/seals. Wrenchy

 

if it was locked don't you think it was locked for a reason?

Also, couldn't you have just PM'd them this since the thread was locked. They wouldn't have been able to respond since they are a trial member but they will have received it.