As the title states, I would like some clarity in this regard. After reading through the numerous threads, there are some things that have become quite apparent, I just want to make sure that I have not oversimplified the whole ordeal.

I believe that all I need is the Prelude S m/c as well as the Prelude S proportioning valve. Other than that, isn't it just as simple as removing the ABS unit/system from the bay and putting in the new m/c and prop valve? Other than the obvious (i.e removing the wheel sensors), isn't that it? As I stated above, I definitely don't want to oversimplify it and get myself stuck somewhere.

Your input is appreciated. And if you didn't catch it before, I have searched and read through many threads, so please don't immediately assume that I am just looking for an easy answer, thank you.

 

Plus u need to make new lines for the front brakes. U can use the back brake lines. Thats what I did.

 

Make new lines for the front brakes? Can you be more specific as to what exactly you are referring to as well as the "back brake lines?"

 

make new lines running from the prop valve to master cylinder also running from prop valev to the front calipers. Is that what your looking for?

 

Directly below your master cylinder, there is a valve that looks kinda like the proportioning valve. You will remove that. Your new valve will go where the previous valve was. The rear lines will be the ones obviously going towards the rear of the car.You will need new front brake lines, either made from 3/16 brake line with your old metric fittings attached. If you are not handy with a flaring tool, either get new ones for a S model, both cost about 65.00 at your Honda dealer, or get them off a wreck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As the title states, I would like some clarity in this regard. After reading through the numerous threads, there are some things that have become quite apparent, I just want to make sure that I have not oversimplified the whole ordeal.

I believe that all I need is the Prelude S m/c as well as the Prelude S proportioning valve. Other than that, isn't it just as simple as removing the ABS unit/system from the bay and putting in the new m/c and prop valve? Other than the obvious (i.e removing the wheel sensors), isn't that it? As I stated above, I definitely don't want to oversimplify it and get myself stuck somewhere.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will need a Prelude S master cylinder, brake booster, brake pedal bracket (that connects the booster and brake pedal), prop valve, and front brake lines (4 total).

ABS MCs and boosters will not work woth non-ABS MCs and boosters.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it. For some odd reason, I completely forgot about the brake lines. I have gone to a few different junkyards out here and finding Preludes is hard enough, but finding Preludes that haven't already been stripped to bone is extremely hard. And finding an S Prelude? I haven't had any luck yet.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You will need a Prelude S master cylinder, brake booster, brake pedal bracket (that connects the booster and brake pedal), prop valve, and front brake lines (4 total).

ABS MCs and boosters will not work woth non-ABS MCs and boosters.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you for this Hawkze, I appreciate it. I was completely unaware of the of the booster issue, and that poses a problem unfortunately. Unless I find a used one asap, I am afraid I will be unable to delete my ABS given that a booster brand new from the dealer is some obscene price around $500.

So that list you put up Hawkze is literally everything that I need to do it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you for this Hawkze, I appreciate it. I was completely unaware of the of the booster issue, and that poses a problem unfortunately. Unless I find a used one asap, I am afraid I will be unable to delete my ABS given that a booster brand new from the dealer is some obscene price around $500. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem.

I was able to get a booster from O'Reilly auto parts for not too much...maybe $50-60 if I remember right. You local auto parts store should have a better deal on it, then you can return your old booster for the core charge.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So that list you put up Hawkze is literally everything that I need to do it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

As far as parts, that's everything I can remember. You will need 10 and 12mm flare nut wrenches for sure (the Si and VTEC MC has a 12mm fitting), of course brake fluid, and some patience! Getting those old lines, ABS module and booster out can be tough.

Here's the 'how to remove ABS' thread, but the pics are down: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1347569

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No problem.

I was able to get a booster from O'Reilly auto parts for not too much...maybe $50-60 if I remember right. You local auto parts store should have a better deal on it, then you can return your old booster for the core charge.

I will do that if I can't find a used one from a part-out or something. I hope that it is something like $50-60 for me. So you are just talking about those auto part stores that sell OEM remanufactured parts, correct?

As far as parts, that's everything I can remember. You will need 10 and 12mm flare nut wrenches for sure (the Si and VTEC MC has a 12mm fitting), of course brake fluid, and some patience! Getting those old lines, ABS module and booster out can be tough.

The 10 and 12 mm flare nut wrenches I will have to find, brake fluid and patience are the obvious! But as for difficulty, it shouldn't be too bad since the motor is getting pulled as well as the high majority of everything in the bay, so I am hoping that it goes quickly and smoothly.

Here's the 'how to remove ABS' thread, but the pics are down: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1347569

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks again Hawkze and everyone that helped.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I will do that if I can't find a used one from a part-out or something. I hope that it is something like $50-60 for me. So you are just talking about those auto part stores that sell OEM remanufactured parts, correct?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I assumed it was remanufactured...it has been fine for 4-5 years though

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The 10 and 12 mm flare nut wrenches I will have to find, brake fluid and patience are the obvious! But as for difficulty, it shouldn't be too bad since the motor is getting pulled as well as the high majority of everything in the bay, so I am hoping that it goes quickly and smoothly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, you can find a set of 3 metric flare nut wrenches pretty easily.

Having the engine out will be a LOT easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I assumed it was remanufactured...it has been fine for 4-5 years though


Yeah, you can find a set of 3 metric flare nut wrenches pretty easily.

Having the engine out will be a LOT easier. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Remanufactured or aftermarket, as long as it works and works well...

And yea, the removal/deletion of all the craziness in my bay is something that I think should only be done with the motor out. EGR, evap., charcoal, ABS, p/s, cruise, PCV, are all gonna be gone... hmmm, did I forget anything?

 

Are you planning on getting rid of the clutch hard lines? I might have a non-abs booster, let me look.

 

I don't think I would take out the PCV system...what about AC? Also, like axiline said, a full SS clutch line can clean up things a lot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by axlline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you planning on getting rid of the clutch hard lines? I might have a non-abs booster, let me look.</TD></TR></TABLE>

In all honesty, I had completely forgotten about that, but I'm down now that you remind me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think I would take out the PCV system...what about AC? Also, like axiline said, a full SS clutch line can clean up things a lot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you elaborate as to why you would not take out the PCV system?

As for a/c, no matter how much I may want a cleaned up bay, I will not remove a/c. Although I have another car, I pretty much drive the car every day and I love the a/c when it gets hot out here in southern CA.

And like I said to axlline, I had competely forgotten to mentione the clutch lines, but a SS setup would be lovely.

 

Bump

 

Here is what you need to do it. These are the summit part #'s

AER-FBM2610 STEEL 90. ELBOW 1/8 MP/#3 FLAR - $7.69

ATM-2266 ADPTR METRIC - $12.39

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...94640


Modified by axlline at 12:35 PM 2/26/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by axlline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is what you need to do it. These are the summit part #'s

AER-FBM2610 STEEL 90. ELBOW 1/8 MP/#3 FLAR - $7.69

ATM-2266 ADPTR METRIC - $12.39

http://cgi.ebay.com/Earls-civi...wItem</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks bro. That link isn't working for me though.

So with that elbow and that adaptor, how much ss line would I need? Should I just get 3ft or would 2ft suffice?

 

Since I'm selling him the parts, am I going to need any of that stuff at all when converting my car from auto to manual? All this stuff is coming off the parts car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Can you elaborate as to why you would not take out the PCV system? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, do you realize what it does? Positive Crankcase Ventilation...without it you're going to end up with pressure inside the crankcase and that is bad for engine performance in many aspects....eventually you would probably start to loose oil from most all of the oil seals.

It's not like there's much to it anyway, just 2 air lines and the valve on the valve cover.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Should I just get 3ft or would 2ft suffice? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used 7 ft for mine Search for the 'clutch damper replacement or removal' thread, there's tons of info on making an SS clutch line.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, do you realize what it does? Positive Crankcase Ventilation...without it you're going to end up with pressure inside the crankcase and that is bad for engine performance in many aspects....eventually you would probably start to loose oil from most all of the oil seals.

It's not like there's much to it anyway, just 2 air lines and the valve on the valve cover.

Well yes of course, but I just didn't/don't think it is too big of a deal given that I was planning on running a breather can setup.

I used 7 ft for mine Search for the 'clutch damper replacement or removal' thread, there's tons of info on making an SS clutch line.

[B] I read through the high majority of the main thread as well as secondary threads/links, thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So with the parts that axlline mentioned above, in addition to 7ft or so of ss line, what else do I need? And is it ss line that you guys have all ended up going with or ss braided line? What about teflon line?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well yes of course, but I just didn't/don't think it is too big of a deal given that I was planning on running a breather can setup.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

OK, haha, I didn't realize you were going to use a catch can. It should be fine to remove it that way.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So with the parts that axlline mentioned above, in addition to 7ft or so of ss line, what else do I need? And is it ss line that you guys have all ended up going with or ss braided line? What about teflon line? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I used an adaptor for each end plus a hose-end for each end. SS braided line usually has a Teflon inner core.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OK, haha, I didn't realize you were going to use a catch can. It should be fine to remove it that way.

[B]The question then becomes, what kind of catch can and where have others before me opted to connect it to? I have been reading the thread made by B & R Fitting... anyone here have experience with their work/product?


I used an adaptor for each end plus a hose-end for each end. SS braided line usually has a Teflon inner core.

[B]Well, maybe it is because it is 5:18 in the damn morning, but I don't follow what exactly you are referring to here. You are using an adaptor each end plus a hose-end for each end? Do you mean an adaptor to make each SS end have the hose-end, right? So that would be 4 items, 2 per end, with the adaptor and hose-end being what you needed to connect each of the furthest ends of the ss line? (expletive I'm tired and sick as ****, which is why I am up at this time cuz I have a sick ol' headache, so bare with me and explain what could be the most elementary of things... thanks)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hawkze_2.3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

OK, haha, I didn't realize you were going to use a catch can. It should be fine to remove it that way.

The question then becomes, what kind of catch can and where have others before me opted to connect it to? I have been reading the thread made by B & R Fitting... anyone here have experience with their work/product?


I used an adaptor for each end plus a hose-end for each end. SS braided line usually has a Teflon inner core.

Well, maybe it is because it is 5:18 in the damn morning, but I don't follow what exactly you are referring to here. You are using an adaptor each end plus a hose-end for each end? Do you mean an adaptor to make each SS end have the hose-end, right? So that would be 4 items, 2 per end, with the adaptor and hose-end being what you needed to connect each of the furthest ends of the ss line? (expletive I'm tired and sick as ****, which is why I am up at this time cuz I have a sick ol' headache, so bare with me and explain what could be the most elementary of things... thanks)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PinoyShadow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, maybe it is because it is 5:18 in the damn morning, but I don't follow what exactly you are referring to here. You are using an adaptor each end plus a hose-end for each end? Do you mean an adaptor to make each SS end have the hose-end, right? So that would be 4 items, 2 per end, with the adaptor and hose-end being what you needed to connect each of the furthest ends of the ss line? (expletive I'm tired and sick as ****, which is why I am up at this time cuz I have a sick ol' headache, so bare with me and explain what could be the most elementary of things... thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

No problem. That's just the way making these types of lines work. The peices you want the line to go into (master & slave cylinder) have metric female inlets, and the SS lines also have female outlets (usually not metric), so you need a way to connect the 2 female ends.

Naturally you need a piece that has 2 male ends so the 2 females can attach, plus you need each male end to be the right size. Sooooooo you figure out what 2 sizes you need and find an adaptor made for those 2 sizes.