95 civic motor swap?
Re: 95 civic motor swap? (Wichita Honda Tech)
<FONT COLOR="red">Don't go over 300whp or you risk blowing up the motor.</FONT>
HERE'S a ton of turbo information:
TURBO BASIC FAQ:
Firstly, an exhaust manifold comes from an NA motor, so you'll need a turbo manifold. They come in many forms, Ram horn, top mount, log manifold, etc... Log manifold is by far the cheapest and it spools really quickly -- plus it's quite reliable if build right the first time. Here's what else you'll need for your car:
Turbocharger: Pick which size and trim turbo is gonna work best for your application and goals. A regular T3 turbo is usually good for 250WHP, a t3/t4 up to 400WHP, and a t4 400+ WHP... I'd recommend a ball-bearing garrett turbo, a nicely sized t3/t4 turbo, not too large or too small TRIM/AR size.
Downpipe: Again must be custom for your turbo/manifold choice. A flex pipe and o2 bung are nice to have while creating a downpipe -- although not necessary.
Wastegate: Choose a wastegate size (also what psi spring you'd like to run) according to application such as amount of air flow and psi from turbo.. This is if you have a turbo that's externally wastegate powered..
Intercooler: Choose either a FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler) or Side Mount Intercooler. FMIC is the only way to go really for efficient cooling..
Blow off valve: This is actually an optional (but very recommended part). Doesnt really matter which one you choose. Pick a sound you like. Some people like to use ebay or cheap BOV's, but if it fails, you can hurt your turbo -- so don't really cheap out.
Fuel Management: One of the most important parts on your turbocharged car. I would highly suggest running a programmable chipped ecu or standalone device. I'd suggest Hondata or Crome..
Fuel Pump : You will probably need an upgraded fuel pump to support the added fuel consumption. Can be either internal or external -- I recommended the Walbro 2550LPH hi pressure fuel pump kit from injected-performance.com on H-T's marketplace for sponsors
Injectors : To support added air induction, more fuel is need... hence bigger injectors. Buy size according to application.
Map Sensor: Stock maps can only read up to ~10.63 psi, if you plan to go higher upgrade to a 2bar or 3bar map sensor.
Intercooler Piping: You can buy a ic piping kit, but usally will always take some modification to fit your exact application.. I believe ebay has some kits that have flanges made for the greddy BOV's for around $150 shipped
Couplers/t-bolts: You will need silicone couplers to bind the two intercooler pipes together as well as t-bolts -- I don't recommend screw clamps for anything other than for your intake pipes for your custom Short Ram
Oil drain/feed lines: Every turbo needs oil, so you must buy an oil feed and drain line kit. Stainless Steel lines are HIGHLY recommended. Rubber lines will get hot and can/will burst.
Vacuum Manifold: Not required but recommended to help organize vacuum lines and allow for good vacuum sources. I'd use Golden Eagle's Vacuum manifold.
Gauges: although not required, it's highly recommend so you can keep some status of motor operation. boost/oil pressure highly recommended
Spark plugs: Although not required, turbo temps can get high, so i recommend you step down two steps colder in your spark plugs. Also copper too.. You need NGK BKR7E.. For SOHC it's: ZFR7E-11 spark plugs..
I have a bunch of helpful links I submitted to the Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992-2000) forum FAQ:
http://www.beesandgoats.com/bo....html
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_400322/tm.htm
HOW TO INSTALL THE TURBO AND EVERYTHING -- THE BEST TUTORIAL ON THE WEB: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795
I highly suggest reading a few!
HERE'S a ton of turbo information:
TURBO BASIC FAQ:
Firstly, an exhaust manifold comes from an NA motor, so you'll need a turbo manifold. They come in many forms, Ram horn, top mount, log manifold, etc... Log manifold is by far the cheapest and it spools really quickly -- plus it's quite reliable if build right the first time. Here's what else you'll need for your car:
Turbocharger: Pick which size and trim turbo is gonna work best for your application and goals. A regular T3 turbo is usually good for 250WHP, a t3/t4 up to 400WHP, and a t4 400+ WHP... I'd recommend a ball-bearing garrett turbo, a nicely sized t3/t4 turbo, not too large or too small TRIM/AR size.
Downpipe: Again must be custom for your turbo/manifold choice. A flex pipe and o2 bung are nice to have while creating a downpipe -- although not necessary.
Wastegate: Choose a wastegate size (also what psi spring you'd like to run) according to application such as amount of air flow and psi from turbo.. This is if you have a turbo that's externally wastegate powered..
Intercooler: Choose either a FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler) or Side Mount Intercooler. FMIC is the only way to go really for efficient cooling..
Blow off valve: This is actually an optional (but very recommended part). Doesnt really matter which one you choose. Pick a sound you like. Some people like to use ebay or cheap BOV's, but if it fails, you can hurt your turbo -- so don't really cheap out.
Fuel Management: One of the most important parts on your turbocharged car. I would highly suggest running a programmable chipped ecu or standalone device. I'd suggest Hondata or Crome..
Fuel Pump : You will probably need an upgraded fuel pump to support the added fuel consumption. Can be either internal or external -- I recommended the Walbro 2550LPH hi pressure fuel pump kit from injected-performance.com on H-T's marketplace for sponsors
Injectors : To support added air induction, more fuel is need... hence bigger injectors. Buy size according to application.
Map Sensor: Stock maps can only read up to ~10.63 psi, if you plan to go higher upgrade to a 2bar or 3bar map sensor.
Intercooler Piping: You can buy a ic piping kit, but usally will always take some modification to fit your exact application.. I believe ebay has some kits that have flanges made for the greddy BOV's for around $150 shipped
Couplers/t-bolts: You will need silicone couplers to bind the two intercooler pipes together as well as t-bolts -- I don't recommend screw clamps for anything other than for your intake pipes for your custom Short Ram
Oil drain/feed lines: Every turbo needs oil, so you must buy an oil feed and drain line kit. Stainless Steel lines are HIGHLY recommended. Rubber lines will get hot and can/will burst.
Vacuum Manifold: Not required but recommended to help organize vacuum lines and allow for good vacuum sources. I'd use Golden Eagle's Vacuum manifold.
Gauges: although not required, it's highly recommend so you can keep some status of motor operation. boost/oil pressure highly recommended
Spark plugs: Although not required, turbo temps can get high, so i recommend you step down two steps colder in your spark plugs. Also copper too.. You need NGK BKR7E.. For SOHC it's: ZFR7E-11 spark plugs..
I have a bunch of helpful links I submitted to the Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992-2000) forum FAQ:
http://www.beesandgoats.com/bo....html
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_400322/tm.htm
HOW TO INSTALL THE TURBO AND EVERYTHING -- THE BEST TUTORIAL ON THE WEB: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795
I highly suggest reading a few!
Re: 95 civic motor swap? (ke98248)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ke98248 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't go over 300whp or you risk blowing up the motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can go over 300 HP safely, you just need to do more than bolt on the kit.
You can go over 300 HP safely, you just need to do more than bolt on the kit.
Re: 95 civic motor swap? (BlueIntegraBoy)
That's what I was saying -- if it's completely stock.. I personally know a guy that turbo'd his b18b to around 350whp and blew up the motor after several months..
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