I called my LAS and ask him if they have a transmission mount for a Accord 95 - Auto, and he ask me if I wanted the one with a solenoid or not. I told him I'll get back to him.

I do not remember seeing a solenoid in the transmission mount, what do you guys think?

Is there a such thing.

And is it more difficult to replace the rear mount than the transmission mount.

95 Accord - Auto - VTEC 2.2

Thanks

 

Ok. I managed to changed the front engine mount and for some reason the vibration got stronger than before.

What could have cause this, Are the bolts needed to be tighten according to honda specs.? Coz. what I did was just tighten them as much as I could with a breaker bar and its not easy to do coz. you have the radiator there.

The front mount I use is not Honda OEM its just what I got from Autozone. Is there a big difference using OEM and Generic?

95 Accord EX

 

Still waiting for the Rear Mount Question.

Nice acceleration and smooth after I fixed the front mounts.

 

I don't believe there's a solenoid on the rear mount.

Tranny mount doesn't have anything special on it either.

I will tell you the rear mount is a total bitch to replace.

 

I think only the EX Auto has a solenoid rear mount. Not sure about the LX or DX. But 1 thing is for sure, the EX Auto has a special rear mount.

but yea rear is hard to change. You have to most likely remove the intake manifold for access.

 

Yes, there is a solenoid on rear mount for LX with auto transmission. Yes, it is hard to change. However, you can do the job under the car and do not have to remove the intake manifold. I changed mine a long time ago and I am trying to remember everything:

1. Remove the oil filter.
2. Remove intake manifold bracket
3. Disconnect the speed sensor wire (can not remember if have to)
4. Disconnect or remove anything blocking your way to access the mount from underneath the car.
5. Loose and remove mount bolt and the bolts on mount bracket.
6. Loose the bolts on the mount.
7. Lift the engine a little, try to put the mount side down.
8. When the mount is side down, you can move the bracket around to make more room for next step.
9. Take the mount out from top of the engine. You may need to remove the intake duct.
10. Reverse the steps for installation.

Hope the steps give some helps.

 

Ok. the rear engine mount is a pain to replace, do you think its built stronger than the rest of the mounts or they are pretty much a all the same. I'm trying to save some $$$ by not bringing it to a mechanic.

The Front I did next is the tranny. I do not see any problems yet on the rear coz. its hard to see and its a old car and I want to make sure it runs right.

 

There is a step-by-step troubleshooting from the service manual. Unfortunately, I do not know how to upload images to this side. You should identify problems in this order:

Vacumm hose leak (easy to fix by changing the hose)
Voltage on control solenoid (easy to fix by changing the fuse)
solenoid (easy to change)

If solenoid valve works fine, use a vacumm pump to check if the rotor lever on the mount operates. If not, you need to change the mount. It is also pain to check the rotor lever when the mount is on the car. You can not see it. However, you can manage to touch it. Have a helper to operate the pump, you can try to reach the rotor lever by hand underneath the car.

 

How hard is it to change the engine mounts on your own? What tools are needed and could you spare the part numbers you had from autozone?

Thanks!

 

It is hard but not very hard. You need to be patient. The hardest part is to get more room for removing out and putting in the mount. It should be a little easier to move away the bracket by putting down mount. After moving away the bracket, you can move out the mount.

I ordered my mount from e-bay, but not recommend you do so. The mount was leaking oil right after installed on the car. Even the seller gave me a full refund, I still needed to redo the painful job.

 

Which mount are we talking about though?
I just need the front left.

Is this the guy you bought from?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...sting

Thanks

 

The front one is pretty easy for replacing. I bought one from e-bay but can not remember the seller. I remember I removed the bolts holding the radiator and the radiator hose for easier accessing.

 

Thanks billy
But is this the one I linked the same one you said didn't work well and you had to return it?

 

Sorry one more thing, my engine is the same size but non-VTEC does the same apply to the non-VTEC still?

 

The one I returned was rear mount. I missed the left when I read your message. I replaced front and rear mounts. I did not replace the front left one.

 

So did you remove the intake manifold to get to the rear mount?

 

No, I did not remove the intake manifold. I just removed the intake duct for taking out the mount from there. I removed the Intake Manifold Bracket underneath the car for moving the Mount and Mount Bracket around.

 

so you need to have a jack stand to go underneath the car. shoot I don't have one. just 2 ton hydraulic jack

 

Absolutely, you need jack stands to support the car. You do not want to get underneath the car just with a floor jack. You also need a floor jack to support the engine (under oil pan) in order to remove the mount.

 

You know I'm still trying to figure out how do you do it in the bottom, when I remove the intake hose there is somewhat space there to remove the bolts but I cannot see it below too much clutter.

95 accord has a tight engine bay, like other people say you need a lot of patience.

 

If I remember right, you can not remove the bolts which attach the mount bracket to the engine from top without removing the intake manifold. Without detattaching the mount bracket from the engine, it is very hard to remove the mount. The manual says you can lift the engine high enough to remove the mount. However, I was afraid I would break the side mounts and/or front mount or other things if I lifted the engine that high. That was why I decided to remove the bracket first, then pull out the mount.