My little bro is currently welding my cage in my car and he cant seem to get to this area pictured below. He posted in a welding thread, and they had some ideas, but looking for more options!

This is what he posted:

"I need some help on what size setup for this area of welding i need.

The current setup for the torch in that picture is 3/32 collet, collet body, tungsten, and a number 6 nozzle (3/8)

This is a pta-17 torch wp-17 air cooled tig torch.

im thinking that having a 1/16 collet, collet body, tungsten, and a number 5 (long or short?) nozzle (5/16) might work like in this picture? http://www.arc-zone.com/index....d=918

I kind of want to know what to get first before buying, dont want to waste my money.

I tryed sticking my tungsten out, but its to far out to where the gas will not shield it.

Anyone know a way for me to get this? setup?"





Heres the link on the post he made if some of you like to read what the others advised. http://www.weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=19276

Thanks!

 

Extend the electrode, and walk it up from the side, not from directly behind. It will be a little awkward at first, but it works. I do joints like this quite a bit using a 3/32 set with a #5 short cup [lense], he shouldn't need to step down to 1/16.

Is that really how far out he keeps his electrode, or was that pushed in a bit?

 

turn up the pre-flow.
use a bigger/straight cup so gas flows smoother
extend the electrode
and clean the metal

edit: and dont weld in a drafty area

 

temporarily box in around the weld area with somthing like sheet metal or cardboard and turn up the gas flow get the gas flowing then start the arc with the tungsten out pretty far it will help keep the area purged.

clean that cup, grind out that tack its contaminated... get rid of that rust...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jon@ForcedFabllc.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
clean that cup, grind out that tack its contaminated... get rid of that rust...</TD></TR></TABLE>

x20 !!!!!!!

Man, does your bro just make you everything while you sit around.... threads about your cage, your mani, noone knows how to do stuff....what's goin on in that garage!?

If you had a gas lense you could easily get that tungsten close by pullin it out some. Like dude said above, use some stuff to get the argon to linger in that area. It'll displace the oxygen and allow you to really get the tungsten out. Just tap the pedal and let the post flow fill it, or use a pre flow if you have it.

 

Well hes my welder! haha, i do everything else cept welding...i need to sit down sometime and learn, but **** im funding all his crap so in return he can weld a few things for me haha...

I just purchased a hobart Handler 140 mig welder. He kept complaining it was to dam hard to tig the plates onto the car and couldnt get around on some corners, so i said screw it and purchased a mig. Although im having him tig weld the bars to the plates first but he can use the mig to weld the plates onto the body if he wants.

But yeh ill let him know what you guys said, he does clean his metals really good, just that ones been sitting for couple weeks in my car outside, so moisture got onto it..

After this cage gets welded, im sending it off to the paint shop for a heavy dose of Candy red! hehe

 

Just for ***** and giggles here some stuff he has done,

He made a catch can for his sr20det



Some welds on a d/p he extended..



Oh some of you guys may remember that i was asking a question while back about welding a strut bar across my rear towers, this is what we ended up doing...its not finished yet...but u get the idea





Hes not bad for his age though, 19 years old...i give him props..

 

Get gas lens, #8 cup, pull the tungsten out and turn your flow up to like 30, you should be fine.

 

yeah, a gas lense would help for sure. i've had 1/16" tungsten sticking out more than an inch from the cup for tight spots. just keep in mind argon is heavier than air, so try to weld right over top of the joint if you can.