i just bought a jdm d15b and im running a chipped p28 ecu but its not running properly, could this be my problem? ive done some HW and it looks like p08 is what is normally used, but im not sure. thanks. btw its obd1 motor and wiring.

 

bump

 

hello???????

 

It depends on what is programmed on the chip. A stock P28 can and will run the D15B pretty well. It will look for a VTEC pressure switch and a 4-wire O2 sensor that the D15B doesn't have. This can be overcome though.

Sell the chipped P28 and get a stock P28 or P08, or get a chip with a D15B basemap.

 

so, how do you know it's a P28 ecu. does it have the bar code and the print P28 on the side of the ecu. if not, its posibly an P06 ecu, which means you got ripped off from an ebayer or some dude. i made the same mistake once already. i had to buy my own stock p28, contact someone who knew how to chip, then have him chip it. i told him to leave all the prints and labels on the ecu that way i know its my actual ecu.

oh one way you know its a PO6 is if its got the vtec Diodes sottered onto the ecu. inspect the circuit board for any weird sottering.

if you test it on a B series engine, as you know vtec does not turn on when the engine is cold. but with a P06 ecu the vtec will turn on, but the car will bog all kinds. its terrible, to have an P06, its just a rip off. same with the P75 LS ecu too. dont fall them sorry tricks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueIntegraBoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sell the chipped P28 and get a stock p28</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

yeah i did buy it off someone on ebay, and all the tags are ripped off the side. im gonna try running my only other ecu i have (pr3) and see what happens, and email that douche i bought that ecu off of.

 

Could someone post an internal shot of the board and what to look for if it's a P28? Thought there was ink labeling on the inside or something special to look for...

 

im posting pics in a sec, the one i bought has all labels scraped off.

 

i plugged in my pr3 ecu and it seems to be running a little better. im gonna try to post more pics/video.

the "p28"


the real p28


also i pulled this off my "new" motor

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d[sick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sTeena]

also i pulled this off my "new" motor


</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would probably start by trying to find the rest of this.. Maybe pull off the water pump. GL



Modified by meandino at 12:53 PM 2/14/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by meandino &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would probably start by trying to find the rest of this.. Maybe pull off the water pump. GL</TD></TR></TABLE>

im really over that, at this point i think im gonna return the motor

 

Try sticking a magnet down the tube from the t-stat housing

 

what's sad is i actually tried doing that!!! but got nothing! and ive been running my car for like 45 min

 

well if you need another engine I know where to get one under warranty. with 35-40k miles on it

 

im all ears! but my motor is under warranty its lifetime from nippon-motors, but wheres the place ur thinking of

 

Its up in idaho. Tell me what you need and I'll get your price.

 

GL with the warranty on that motor

 

JDM D15b - which ECU to use depends on which D15b you have. there are at least three that were OBD1/2, a yet another that was OBD2 only.
non-VTEC version (P05)
VTEC version (P08)
&
VTEC-E version (P07)

OBD2 added yet another with dual VTEC solinoids. (P2J)

229 on MCU = P06
the typical VTEC setup has not been added so it's a P06, not a P28 clone.

I'd be worried about where the rest of that went... and what the hell ripped it apart in the first place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Relic1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JDM D15b - which ECU to use depends on which D15b you have. there are at least three that were OBD1/2, a yet another that was OBD2 only.
non-VTEC version (P05)
VTEC version (P08)
&
VTEC-E version (P07)

OBD2 added yet another with dual VTEC solinoids. (P2J)

229 on MCU = P06
the typical VTEC setup has not been added so it's a P06, not a P28 clone.

I'd be worried about where the rest of that went... and what the hell ripped it apart in the first place.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its a jdm d15b sohc vtec (3 stage i think so vtec-e)... do i need a p08??

also my dad and i think that someone cut the center of that thermostat out in an emergency because it was prob stuck shut and the car was gonna overheat... was our guess.

 

3-stage is one engine
VTEC-E is another
the P08 goes to yet another.

if you have two VTEC solinoids then you will need a seriously custom chip burned and a custom ECU built to handle the extra solinoid. (or convert to OBD2 and pick up a P2J ECU)

if you have a VTEC solinoid and P07 is marked on the head and back of the intake mani then you need a P07.

if you have the single VTEC solinoid and the engine pulls fairly hard then the P08 is what you want.

if you have no VTEC solinoid then you want a P05

 

A p28 is what you want, if you would rather get a p08 then that will also work. P28 runs the jdm sohc vtec d15b (obd1) motor just fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ejoner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A p28 is what you want, if you would rather get a p08 then that will also work. P28 runs the jdm sohc vtec d15b (obd1) motor just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
true, but it will run just a touch rich (1.5 to 1.6L)
there have been many people that run the P28 with the 130hp version and it works fine. With a little tuning it will run a lot better though.

 

jdm 1.5b sohc p08/p28 i guess it doesnt matter, but what about the ecu i took a pic of?

 

Just get you a virgin P28 and call it a day.