Recently I purchased at 2.0L dart block off of ebay. The guy I bought the block from had a nitrous setup, and ran the wrong jet causing the head to melt, and water to enter the cylinders. Basically he spun a rod. The rod he spun was the one closest to where the oil pickup attaches. I believe it's #1 or maybe #4 whatever it doesn't really matter. Anyway the engine currently has some accessories, and a rotating assembly. I checked the cylinder walls and they seem to be in good condition with no cracks warping as far as my eye can see. The mating surface where the head goes has small niches in it. The crankshaft has a burn on it where the rod spun something to the likes of burned metal like an HKS carbon Ti exhaust tip. I just need some help I am new to engine building, and would like to build a reliable yet powerful setup. It would be greatly appreciated if you guys can help me out here. From what I have heard so far I think the engine needs to be disassembled again, and the cylinders need to be line honed, but does that mean that I would have to run bigger than 84.5mm bore? I will post some pics of the engine block. enjoy.

 

Here the link to the ebay page (if it still works) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...36810
Here comes the pics!























Tell me what you think!

 

Take the block to a machine shop they will check the cylinders for out of round and tell you how much will need to bored if any, redeck the block, the crank should be polished if it is not too bad, and the crank journals may need a line hone if the journals got damaged.

 

Man I have to give it to you man you are always there giving me help I really appreciate it man!

 

Do you have a ball park at how much that will cost?

 

Damn bro, just seen those pics, the crank like the ebay listing says, needs to be replaces as well as one rod. The deck height was also increased for high boost, are you planning on turbo, supercharger, spray? Also what head do you plan on using?

 

looks like you got a pretty good deal. You should check out that head that endyne is coming out with, if you dont already have one, or plan to build one....

 

I actually was just going to go with the all motor setup. I have been doing a bit of research, and seen that guy at endyn do pretty good with a dart block making like 267 whp. That is what motivated me to buy one. That sucks that the crank has to be replaced I was told by the guy that it was a custom made crower piece. Guess it's time to research a new one, and if I am replacing one rod might as well replace all four. Once again more research into that weither I want to do eagle, pauter, etc.

 

As far as a head. My current setup is a first gen pr3 head with crower retainers, and I believe type r valve train don't quote me on that. It also has jun 3 cams a port and polish job, and has been milled. It was built by King Motorsports. The guy I bought the car off of worked there, and he did all the work there by himself.

 

Being that the deck height is 226mm your gonna need some longer rods to raise the CR enough for an N/A build, that setup was build for high boost so using stock length rods will give you really low CR for an NA build. You're gonna need another custom crank and rods to match that deck height.

 

So if I have bought one I probably should have just went with the regular deck height I'm guessing. The motor currently has 11:5:1 compression pistons in it, but after I inspecting them I don't think they are reusable either. The guy before me ran that nitrous setup, and I just wanted to go N/A. Isn't 12:5:1 The highest on pump gas?

 

I didnt read that the deck height was raised.

looks like your in for a money pit, but well worth it in the end.

 

Thank god it's tax season, also I heard about the dart block being casted differently then oem honda blocks, and they need to be put through some sort of process to make them run cooler. If anyone knows any information about that to it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Depends what is pump gas in your area, here in cali is only 91, some places have 93. I was told around 11.5-12:1 is good for 91. If you were planning an NA build, you would have been better of just getting a stock B20 block for around $300-400 and do a B20Vtec. You could still make power with a stock 84mm bore or overbore to 84.5mm. The benefit though of the raised deck is more displacement, so if you got the cash, you can make more power than the stock B20Vtec.

 

that crankshaft looks as good as **** on your meal... it looks like its done for and the rod... something NO ONE seem to tell you.

 

The ebay listing says the crank and 1 or all 4 of the rods should be replaced. But he's gonna need a custom crank and rods to bring the CR up for a NA build right?

 

Yeah........I just wanted some feedback on that before completey ruling it out. Did not want to replace it that it is def. going to cost some $$. Any suggestions on a replacement crank?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ebay listing says the crank and 1 or all 4 of the rods should be replaced. But he's gonna need a custom crank and rods to bring the CR up for a NA build right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

not custom crank... any crank can be used, he just needs to have a set mind on what he wants and a realistic budget if he has any.

 

When you say "realistic budget" what do you have in mind? Don't kill me to bad

 

For someone who hasn't built an engine before, the first thing they buy being a Dart block, I don't think budget is too much of an issue in their mind.

 

crank alone will run you around 500 - 900 depending on which one you want... rods depends on brand and style. A lot you can do with that block... set your mind on what u want then ask a question.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris Tune &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that crankshaft looks as good as **** on your meal... it looks like its done for and the rod... something NO ONE seem to tell you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn bro, just seen those pics, the crank like the ebay listing says, needs to be replaces as well as one rod. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

sorry 1st time i didnt even cared to read all lol...

 

So if he used a 89mm crank, he would need some long *** rods to get a decent CR for NA right? Or wouldn't he be better off using a 92mm crank to take advantage of the raised deck height?

 

doeant seem like u know what ur talking about...weather its all motor/turbo/nitrous...the piston needs to sit in the hole x amount...u dont just thrown in shorter rods to lower compression....