I need to know what clay to buy so i can check clearances. If you know where to buy it also it will be a big help

 

I used blue "play dough" the first time I clayed a motor. But if i had to do it again, id use some silly putty. It doesnt fall apart as easily.

If you have access to a overhead valvespring compressor that does them on the car,you can put a light valvespring in and "click" check it. Put a dial indicator on the tip of the valvestem and open the valve gently until it touches the piston.

 

ok i need more explanation on this. This time translate it for me because im having brain farts and can not comprehend what you just said.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I used blue "play dough" the first time I clayed a motor. But if i had to do it again, id use some silly putty. It doesnt fall apart as easily.

If you have access to a overhead valvespring compressor that does them on the car,you can put a light valvespring in and "click" check it. Put a dial indicator on the tip of the valvestem and open the valve gently until it touches the piston.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

when the valve hits do you compare how much distance it takes for the valve to hit the piston then compare it to the max lift on the cam specs to see how much clearance is there,then adjust your cam gears every degree and repeat the process? just curious,sounds like a good way. if so would you really need playdoe

 

I wouldn't trust the max lift as per cam spec sheet. I would rather rotate the cams to max lift as shown by the dial indicator. Then zero out the indicator and do the check there. This way your excluding variations in cam wear, rocker wear, valve clearance etc.

 

Go to a craft store and buy modeling clay. Make sure it is not springy, meaning it does not spring back when compressed. That will give you a falsely high clearance reading.

Also lightly oil the valve so that the clay don't stick to da valve. YOU HERE ME BOI!!!!

FO-SHIZZAAY!!! PoPoZOA!!

 

lol got it thanks

 

Ill try and explain the best I can. Your claying the motor to check piston to valve clearance right? (PTV)
You put little "patches" of clay on the piston that you will be checking. Valve reliefs,dome to head/plug,etc.
I sprayed a light coat of WD-40 on the combustion chamber(valves installed).
This keeps the valves from sticking to the clay. You want to measure the impression left by the valves. If sticks to the valves, it will ruin your measurements.
Then put all your pistons halfway in the bore.
Next you will lock your lobes together so you will just measure the VTEC lobe(SEARCH)
Put the head on with exact same thickness gasket you will be using for final assy. You will need to install the head next. Id only torque it to about 50-75% of the actual torque. You dont need the proper bolt stretch just yet.
Then you will "degree" your cams to the manufacturers specs(this is a whole different topic, SEARCH).
Then adjust your cams to the maximum range you think youll be seeing as you fine tune them in on the dyno.
Rotate the engine VERY GENTLY in case you overshoot your clearances and have PTV contact the first shoot. After 1 complete cycle(2 crank revolutions), remove the head.
You then will measure the impressions left by the valve during rotation.
You can cut the clay carefully so you can measure the cross section, just be gently so you dont scar the piston...
I forget recommended specs, but this is the general operation of "claying".
You may have to repeat a couple times until you get enough data to give you a good idea of how close things will be when the engine is running.

Maybe someone else can explain a little better!

 

i understand this way of doing it but in your other post you was saying you was using a dial indicator and checking it with that.
i was just wondering exactly how you was doing it with the indicator,thought maybe it was more accurate.

 

I havent actually checked clearances using the "click" method. From my understanding you lock the lobes together like before and replace 1 cylinders intake and exhaust valves with " dummy springs" so they keep the valve closed yet are easily pushed down with your finger. Probably just a few lbs of seat pressure.
Put the retainers and keepers in just like normal. Then you set up a dial indicator touching the top of the valvestem.Stay a perfectly in line as the valvestem as you can.
Id set the lash to ZERO just to err on the safe side.Better too much than too little right?
Degree the cams like you normally would...
Rotate the engine (very slowly and gently). When you come up on the TDC, push down on the valve until you feel it "click" the piston. This reading + valve lash is your clearance at that cam setting.
Adjust your gears and remeasure as many times as you need.
Then do the same for the other side...

Drink a beer and know that you are safe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I havent actually checked clearances using the "click" method. From my understanding you lock the lobes together like before and replace 1 cylinders intake and exhaust valves with " dummy springs" so they keep the valve closed yet are easily pushed down with your finger. Probably just a few lbs of seat pressure.
Put the retainers and keepers in just like normal. Then you set up a dial indicator touching the top of the valvestem.Stay a perfectly in line as the valvestem as you can.
Id set the lash to ZERO just to err on the safe side.Better too much than too little right?
Degree the cams like you normally would...
Rotate the engine (very slowly and gently). When you come up on the TDC, push down on the valve until you feel it "click" the piston. This reading + valve lash is your clearance at that cam setting.
Adjust your gears and remeasure as many times as you need.
Then do the same for the other side...

Drink a beer and know that you are safe.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

i see said the blind man not bad at all

 

if you dont have those dummy springs then how would you lock the lobes or the vtec valves. is it really neccesary to lock the vtec valves. I think that the safest clearances for piston to valve is .040

 

Enjoy.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...y.php

 

Yes, it is necessary to lock the rocker arms together so you measure the vtec lobe and not the small ones. The vtec lobes open much farther and hang open much later than the regular lobes.
This is why you only really need to measure clearances in vtec. In vtec is where things start running close together. If everything clears ok on the "big cam" everything will be fine on the "small cam"...
The dummy springs are only used so that you can push the valves open with minimal effort. If you used your regular valvesprings,it would be hard to feel/hear the click while your pressing down with 60+lbs...