just wondering.. i did my st tune and this is where my numbers ended up to have no det and run pretty fast. its a stock bottom end single cam a6, t3t4 57 trim and 93 octance gas.. at 14.5 psi i have total timing at 9.5* .. but i see others have alot more than that usually.. why would this be? i also had to correct the column of 6300 rpms because it would go from a lower timing in the 5300 rpm column to a much higher timin in the 6300 column then in the 7200 column it would go back down again.. so i evened it out to gradually go down.. im using a .75 retard per psi and all i had to correct was the 6300 column because it would jump drastically high for some reason just in the 6300 row..


Modified by 97grnrs at 2:36 PM 2/12/2008

 

what form of EMS?

 

zdyne gold secu. base timing at 18* i shift at 7k

 

That's a little low, but who knows how Zdyne handles ign correction, maybe it's fine.

Throw it on a dyno and be sure.

 

ya it seems low compared to others numbers in general but its running great, car does 11 sec passes but i was just curious, and i dont trust any local dynoes.. if anyones gonna drive the car on a dyno it will be me and im sure no shop is gonna let me do the driving so i dont even bother..

 

Most shops around here, if you're renting it, will let you drive the cars.

 

I would run 14-15 deg. of timing with 93 octane at 14.5 PSi. Maybe I'm not fully understanding what you mean but why would you want to run a .75 retard per psi....just run whats on the timing map,

 

i dont have to run a .75 retard but i was trying to find a good place to start . 1 deg per psi was taking away too much. at.75 per psi it felt strong and i didnt wanna risk blowing stuff by goin much lower, but the ecu automatically subtracts .75 per psi so i just went in and changed the last few columns a bit.. everyone says 1 deg per psi is "safe" but at .75 per psi im thinking i could use a bit more timing so really most ppl must be around .5-.6 per psi retard if the total is around 14 or 15*

 

take your car to a dyno, add 2 degrees, if power goes up, add another degree or 2. if it dont make anymore power with additional timing, just back it down 2-3* to be safe.

i was running around the same timing in a D series i tuned, but that was a Y8 motor.

 

do u mean add 2 deg to just the total timing or to all the colums and also where about should total timing start? around the 5000 rpm range? and if i can find a dyno that will let me drive ill do that

 

I have never had any luck making more power safely with higher ignition timing on the gay....err...d-series cars. That timing sounds like it is in the ball park for what I normally run on a setup like that, but plugs, proper dyno tuning tools and your brain are your friend. Good luck.

 

im running the stock recc ngk plug for the a6 motor with a gap of .25 i tried the bk7re plugs or whatever they are that everyone recc but i would end up fouling them out during normal driving after about a week , so im using the stock 6 heat range and seem to not have a problem

 

If you're running that map and the distributor at 18*, then add 1.8deg through the entire map to see your effective timing (what its really running). You are supposed to sync the timing to the numbers you use in the idle portion, which is 16.2deg in your case.

Your timing seems a little low, but all things are relative when compairing numbers on a different EMS. For example AEM has very little 'hidden retard' unlike Honda-based EMS's, so as long as you're not getting detonation, the numbers are okay.

Cook up 2 maps with less timing (3* at 14.5psi) and more timing (1.5-2* at 14.5psi) and run those two & your current map at the dyno. If your timing is perfect, the low map will make less power, while both mid & high maps will make about the same power. Basicly you're looking for the point (below detonation) where you run as little timing to get almost max power. (MBT)

 

If you rent a dyno they will almost always let you drive the car on it.

I bet that car willl make more power if you turn up the timing.

 

my car idles at about 19-20 vacuum, on the chart it shows that to be 18* base timing, so wouldnt that 16.2* only be if i was idling in the higher vac range?

 

That timing doesn't seem that low to me,

D series on boost don't like any timing. Everyone is telling him to add a degree and see if it makes more power, i'd do the opposite with that thing, i'd pull a degree and see if the power drops off, if it doesn't, keep pulling it until it does, but it if does drop of then you know to start adding timing, its so easy to pop a gasket on those small bore engines, why risk it.