Hey guys,

This is what I'm trying to do. In a month or two ill be buying a B16A Gen 2 motor for about $1400 Canadian. I'd love to buy a B16B CTR but I cant justify spending $2000 more only for a 10HP increase. BUT what I do like is the 9000RPM red-line limit. So what my question is what parts do I need to make my future B16A Gen 2 engine rev up to 9000RPM-9500RPM? Can you please list the parts I need, and give me some advice. Thank you very much

 

You need the cams, valves, springs, pistons, etc that make the CTR B16 be worth a damn above the USDM fuel cut.
Just reving a non-CTR B16 up to the CTR fuel cut isn't going to magically give you more power. As a matter of fact you'll actually be in the losing power stage after the stock USDM fuel cut if you start to rev above that.

Use the search feature using various keywords. You'll find what you're looking for.

 

Edit: I searched around and found out that the stock head redlines at 8200RPM. I also found out that Its not safe, and that it also looses power if you rev higher than 8200RPM. So my new question is whats a safe method in tunning the engine to rev past 8200RPM without possibly losing power, or atleast losing minimum power. You might ask why I'm bothering to try to rev higher If infact I lose power, well my answer if I just like higher revs. I probably won't be going 9000RPM daily, but its nice once in awhile. Just knowing you can is what matters to me.

Thanks!


Modified by bashir26 at 2:47 AM 2/12/2008

 

build a strong engine with good quality internal parts. oem type r are good. get some aggressive cams. ctr/itr pistons. rods.new bearings..valve springs...valve retainers..new valve..all new gaskets and o ring. new timing belt.water pump.type r oil pump...etc..and then get it dyno tuned should be able to rev to 9000 rpm. but u are looking about $2000~2500 for this upgrage.cause dyno tune costs about $350~500...all money in USDM

 

From what I understand is that you just want a higher revlimit? Get Aftermarket Valvesprings, Retainers, a modded ECU and last but not the least... get an experienced tuner/builder. No matter how expensive/high-quality your parts are.. if your tuner is whack.. then your engine goes kaboom.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bashir26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You might ask why I'm bothering to try to rev higher If infact I lose power, well my answer if I just like higher revs. I probably won't be going 9000RPM daily, but its nice once in awhile. Just knowing you can is what matters to me.

Thanks!


Modified by bashir26 at 2:47 AM 2/12/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dumbest reason ever

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHDM-EK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">From what I understand is that you just want a higher revlimit? Get Aftermarket Valvesprings, Retainers, a modded ECU and last but not the least... get an experienced tuner/builder. No matter how expensive/high-quality your parts are.. if your tuner is whack.. then your engine goes kaboom. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">build a strong engine with good quality internal parts. oem type r are good. get some aggressive cams. ctr/itr pistons. rods.new bearings..valve springs...valve retainers..new valve..all new gaskets and o ring. new timing belt.water pump.type r oil pump...etc..and then get it dyno tuned should be able to rev to 9000 rpm. but u are looking about $2000~2500 for this upgrage.cause dyno tune costs about $350~500...all money in USDM </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the tips! For the amount of money going into the tuning I think its cheaper and more reliable to go with the B16B CTR. I had no idea you had to tune the car so much to get another 800RPM out of it. Thank you very much for the information

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dumbest reason ever</TD></TR></TABLE>

It maybe dumb, I can understand why it is, but its still a reason :D

 

I used to be a rev addict too, revving the hell out of my B16A all the time, dreaming about 10k rpm builds. But I soon learned from research that high rpm dd engines and reliability aren't good friends for the most part.

Larry Widmer owner of Endyn says:

RPM stands for Ruins Peoples Motors.

And he builds 9k + rpm engines for a living.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bashir26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had no idea you had to tune the car so much to get another 800RPM out of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, because once u raise the compression and with aggressive cams.the fuel and air ratio is off. u need to get the ecu remap

 

The B16A only has a 77mm stroke. Your absolute musts would be a springs and retainers and an ECU. Dont go too crazy on these. Stock springs should work the first few times revving that high....but not too sure what happens as they age.

You can use OEM CTR parts for your whole valve train, and an OEM CTR or ITR ECU. That way, everything is to OEM reliable spec and your timing belt and valve train wont wear out prematurely due to too stiff of a valvespring.

CTR cams would be a useful add on to actually make that power up top. The CTR apparently has a better rod/stroke ratio than a B16A, IIRC.....but with a 77mm stroke either way you SHOULD be fine to go 800rpm beyond stock rev limit.


You dont need internals.

Aftermarket ECUs have their own issues sometimes. Plus they may require a tune. If you buy the OEM CTR/ITR ECU, you dont need a tune.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dumbest reason ever</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well....the 1st to 2nd gear shift in a B16A puts you around 6k RPM after shifting at 8200. The problem is that the B16A power band doesn't really start moving the car fast till around 6500-7k ish. If you rev out the motor in 1st gear a little more, it puts you into a sweeter powerband for 2nd gear. So it's somewhat useful even with stock cams.

 

I would imagine your only MUSTS are cams, a valve train, and it would deffinately not hurt to arp rod bolts.

 

yup i agree...CTR/ITR valve springs and retainers..ITR/CTR cams and a tuned ECU and you should be good for 9k redline...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IslandSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Dumbest reason ever</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

 

wrote down some notes. Thanks for all the replies!!

 

Going with a K20a now.