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H23A1 Engine Removal

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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 03:37 PM
  #1  
mypreludeissexy's Avatar
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Default H23A1 Engine Removal

So I started to remove parts out of the engine bay to prepare the motor to be pulled out (fans, wiring connectors, fuel rail hose, strut bar, battery, base, starter cables, throttle cable, hoses, intake, etc.) and was wondering if there is any tip or information that I need before I pull it out with the transmission. I read in a manual that I downloaded online that before you pull ONLY the transmission, to shift into reverse. It is something like this that I want to know before I go and screw something up that could have easily been avoided. But why do you have to shift into R? 1st time pulling the motor out but I don't think it should be that hard to do. Only part that is kind of confusing is the shift cables, select cables, slave+master cylinder, how to remove ball joints, vss, p/s sensor and how to adjust the shift cables once put back in. I do not have to check the timing or anything like that before the motor is pulled do I? In case anyone cares, my H23A1 spun a rod bearing. Any information is greatly appreciated!
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 04:01 PM
  #2  
xxmastermindxx's Avatar
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Default Re: H23A1 Engine Removal (mypreludeissexy)

have no clue why it would say to put it in reverse, might possibly be to aid with removal and installation of shift cables, but i dunno.

first off, buy a helm's manual. it will guide you from beginning to end, and has EVERYTHING you will need to know.

second:

LABEL EVERYTHING!!!!

that will be the best advice i'll give you, and many will say the same. keep things together, use sandwich bags and label "radiator bracket bolts" or "hood bolts" or "shift cable bolts", etc. you get the idea. will save a lot of time, especially if it's your first time.

third, if you can, try and have a relatively neat work area. it helps because you have less clutter and you won't spend 15 minutes looking for your 12mm socket like a lot of us do.

your shift cables will come off with the bracket, its 3 bolts i believe. just take the cotter pins out of the shift levers on your tranny, and the cables should slide right off.

clutch master cylinder does not need removal, unless you're replacing it. slave cylinder is easy, it's bolted to the front of your tranny.

ball joints, you will need to remove the cotter pin out of the joint stud, remove nut, stick a separator in there (looks like a big *** two prong fork), give it a few good wacks with a hammer, and it pops right out.

vss come up out of the top of the tranny, held in with i believe two bolts, and the power steering sensor attached to it should not be removed, the P/S lines going to it either.

as for adjusting shift cables when you put them back in, should be no need. you have a 5 speed, right? RIGHT? lol
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 04:11 PM
  #3  
mypreludeissexy's Avatar
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Default Re: H23A1 Engine Removal (xxmastermindxx)

Yeah, I have a 5-speed and I saw the slave cylinder in the front of the transmission but I also saw the line coming out of it. I know I need to be very careful with it but do I need to remove the lines or just the cylinder? So the power steering sensor and two lines are attached to the VSS? Are the two lines and the power steering sensor necessary if I removed power steering? It won't mess anything up right? Thanks for the response.
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 04:22 PM
  #4  
xxmastermindxx's Avatar
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From: chicago, il, usa
Default Re: H23A1 Engine Removal (mypreludeissexy)

not 100% sure on the VSS power steering lines necessity if you have no P/S. someone will chime in for sure though. but yes, the power steering sensor and the VSS are all one unit when assembled.

you shouldnt have to remove the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder, i never have. just unbolt the cylinder, unbolt wherever the hydraulic line is supported, and swing it out of the way. if it's stock, it's not a hard line all the way back, goes to rubber somewhere near the shock tower.
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 10:51 AM
  #5  
mypreludeissexy's Avatar
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Default Re: H23A1 Engine Removal (xxmastermindxx)

I heard that the ball joint remover tool that you are talking about can mess up the ball joint or something nearby. The "fork" right? I thought the other ball joint remover that looks like a hand exerciser is a better option but then again, you have removed it and I haven't. Also, when my uncle changed my axles, he did not fully remove the nut (castle nut?) to remove the ball joint. He loosened it about halfway, loosened the ball joint, removed the nut, and then removed the ball joint. Any idea why he did this? Anything good or wrong with doing this? Thanks!
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