I have been doing research and I just keep reading about how people say that doing an LS/Vtec is in most cases unreliable. I personally don't understand why that is. Is it because people don't take necessary precautions in building one or what.

I plan on boosting my LS/vtec later on when money permits, but for now I was going to have fun with it NA after building it because right now I have a stock D16Y7 . When building the LS/Vtec I am going to use Eagle rods/Wiseco 9:1 Pistons not sure on the bearings. GSR oil/Water pump GE Vtec conversion kit and I would actually just buy a long block B16 from H-Motors and swap the head on my B18B and sell the short block.

 

i was told as long as you set your red line safely since your head revs way higher than the block then you should generally be fine.

 

The thing with Ls Vtecs is that some people dont take the engines math into account like the long rod/stoke ratio which puts side load on pistons,and cylinder bores.The LS rods are weak when it comes to the big end bore of the conn rods.The oem rod bolts do not take kindly to stretch at high rpm.It is all in the builder on how reliable you make it.

 

So then with my build that would make it ok? Using Eagle rods( I think those come with ARP rod bolts) and Wiseco Pistons and GSR oil pump/water pump, GE vtec conversion kit, ARP headstuds, then It would be ok to spin to 8200rpm safely on an LS crank like a GSR or an B16a2 would?

 

why would u want to rev to 8200 rpm when most of the power band/peak is around 7800 rpm or so

 

for later on down the road when I boost it

 

You might want to get the crank balanced.

The whole "wah wah its unreliable" is bullshit. People just don't tune and don't break them in correctly and expect them to run like champs

Follow this guideline and you'll be good

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why would u want to rev to 8200 rpm when most of the power band/peak is around 7800 rpm or so</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he has a good setup, he can make power to 9000rpms.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for later on down the road when I boost it</TD></TR></TABLE>
once again. even if u boost it. u need to get it dyno tuned, and graph sheet will tell u the power band/peak. and most of the power peak is below 8000 rpm.
over rev the engine wont make your car go any quicker and in fact.power goes down

 

"What makes an LS/Vtec unreliable?", the person that builds it. These have been around for a while, and like skoundrelusa said its the peolpe that do them incorrectly is what ruins there reputation. While taking into account the math and weak/strong points of the motor, the bottom line will always stand "Any motor is only reliable as the person that builds it". Also, "if you to fix it, fix it better than it was"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SkoundrelUSA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Follow this guideline and you'll be good

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1676914

</TD></TR></TABLE>


I read this and it seems that I am going in the right direction but he did mention a Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator, I guess I dont understand why is it that you would need one. I have seen tons of people that have boosted LS/vtecs with the stock fuel pressure regulator on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97_coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I read this and it seems that I am going in the right direction but he did mention a Adjustable Fuel Pressure regulator, I guess I dont understand why is it that you would need one. I have seen tons of people that have boosted LS/vtecs with the stock fuel pressure regulator on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Aftermarket FPR's are crap, i cant tell you how many friends of mine had them go bad and break. All the while they are running excessively rich (most of the time) and most, if not all of them took them off and put the stock ones back on and ran better than before.

 

i was always told that VTEC cranks are better balanced, thus take the abuse of high revving better.

i think the problems come when people simply mate a head with the block, pull out their driveway thinking they're michael knight...or ba baracas, or some other guy that drives fast on old 80's sitcoms.

 

i have a lsv that i built last year in april 07....only special things i have added to the build was arp rod bolts, arp head studs, crome rings and b16 pistons.....with proper break-in the car still drives with absolutely no smoke till this day...no balancing or any of that special ****...just do things right, and buy quality parts...acl bearings, good rings and correct water/oil pump.....just do it right!! and break in is very important

 

my one friend is considering throwing his vtec head on his b18b, and asked me to see why ls-v is unreliable, i forgot about looking until i read this. so thanks to all, i didn't realize the rods were shitty too. well, not shitty, just not great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z6hatchboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"What makes an LS/Vtec unreliable?", the person that builds it. These have been around for a while, and like skoundrelusa said its the peolpe that do them incorrectly is what ruins there reputation. While taking into account the math and weak/strong points of the motor, the bottom line will always stand "Any motor is only reliable as the person that builds it". Also, "if you to fix it, fix it better than it was" </TD></TR></TABLE>


x2... i had a ls-v setup for over a year and a half now. At first it was na, stock rods/pistons with arp rodbolts. Tached 8500rpm daily . Never had a problem out of it.