This is my second attempt on a motor build. My first was a catastrophic failure due to me not degreeing my cams correctly. My goal is to be pushing around 190-200 whp and still be able to dd. I have searched a bunch and I am just trying to gets things cleared up.

So far I have the following,

b18c block
b16 head with itr IM and itr TB
jdm itr tranny
whale ***** intake
dc 4-1
apexi ws2.

Products that I plan to purchase,

RS machine itr piston and rings sized 81.5
itr valvetrain and cams
arp head studs, head and rod bolts
hondata IM gasket.
new gaskets, timing belt, bearings, oil and water pump,

I also plan on doing the following to the head and block,

Block-
bore to accomadate larger pistons
resurface
hone
hot tank
balance stock p72 crank

Head-
new valve and stem seals
mild p&p
resurface
3 angle valve job
hot tank


My questions are...
1) Should I have my machine shop balance the block?
2) Can I reuse my old p72 rod and caps on my p73 pistons?
3) Should I shot pean my new or used rods?
4) Should I use a stock headgasket? Or should I use a thinner one?
5) I plan on buying a bearing kit. Which kit would be best for my set up, ACL or oem?
6) With the itr cams will I have to degree them or are they direct bolt and tune?
7) Should I knife edge the crank?

If I am missing anything please let me know. This whole idea is overwhelming to me, but I think I can do it. I will probably have more questions later. If you have any pointers please chime in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MurdersV8s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


My questions are...
1) Should I have my machine shop balance the block? If they can, yes
2) Can I reuse my old p72 rod and caps on my p73 pistons? yes
3) Should I shot pean my new or used rods? If you want
4) Should I use a stock headgasket? Or should I use a thinner one? OEM
5) I plan on buying a bearing kit. Which kit would be best for my set up, ACL or oem? OEM, you'll have to find out what bearing colors to order when it's apart
6) With the itr cams will I have to degree them or are they direct bolt and tune? You could mess with cam gear setting for more power, depends on how much you're taking off the block and head
7) Should I knife edge the crank? I don't think you need to


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Also:
Ditch the whale *****.
Get a better header.
What are you TUNING with???

 

Whos Barry Batrinath?

Anyway

1) Not really necessary with Honda IL4's on a mild build.
2) Those rods would be fine to reuse if they were not damaged in the "catastrophic failure".
3) Honda rods are shot peened from the factory.
4) OEM is fine, here.
5) An OK trick to use for a mild build like this, and you dont have the capacity to set the clearances yourself, is if the crank youre using was originally in the block youre using, is to get the color codes figured out, and go one step looser on the bearings. For ex. Journal #1 calls for a Green, you go yellow, which is one step looser on Honda's thickness chart. This ONLY applies if the crank youre using is originally from the block your using.
6) ITR cams arent aggressive enough to run into any real problems if you have an IQ above that of mustard. Play with the gears on the dyno to figure out where the want to be.
7) No.

 

what intake do you recommend for all motor then

 

The motor that I had problems with was an old b16 not the b18. The crank that I have is from this block. I will be following the color code trick that you mentioned. I would use better cams, but I am keen on using stock honda parts for the reliability factor.

For the intake I will end up getting 3 inch pipe and k&n filter. When I get around to it I'll grab the hytech replica header. I will be tuning with whatever my tuner recommends for my set up.

I have been reading up on degreeing of cams and I still don't seem to understand. The best example that I have found was in the April issue of honda tuning. Anybody have a better example that a beginner could understand? The reason why I ask is because this was my problem in my b16. I put the original sk2 stage 1's in and didn't degree them. In short I blew a hole in my block bc of my valves hitting the pistons.

One question
Would using oversized itr pistons take some reliability away?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MurdersV8s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The reason why I ask is because this was my problem in my b16. I put the original sk2 stage 1's in and didn't degree them. In short I blew a hole in my block bc of my valves hitting the pistons.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you miss a shift? was the block decked and the head milled?

I've monkey'd with stg1s for years and never had a piston to valve problem.


Modified by mar778c at 9:30 AM 2/11/2008

 

I didn't miss shift and the head was also milled. I swapped out just the valve train for sk2 products. I had my buddy who is a master ford tech swap out the cams. While the other parts were done from my local machine shop.
At first the motor ran strong, then after about a week I could hear the valves hitting the pistons. Not too long after that I blew a hole thru the block.


Modified by MurdersV8s at 3:21 PM 2/11/2008

 

I was just quoted by my local machine shop. Prices are as follows...

Balance crank- $200-250

Bore- $100

Hot tank- $100

Piston/rings install- $90

Install crank- $200-300

Does this sound like descent prices or am I being ripped off?

 

Check your pm And yes, those machine shop prices sound about right.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MurdersV8s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I didn't miss shift and the head was also milled. I swapped out just the valve train for sk2 products. I had my buddy who is a master ford tech swap out the cams. While the other parts were done from my local machine shop.
At first the motor ran strong, then after about a week I could hear the valves hitting the pistons. Not too long after that I blew a hole thru the block.


Modified by MurdersV8s at 3:21 PM 2/11/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was a valve adjustment performed after the cam install? Also, a valve jam nut may have come loose.

 

While where on the subject of Poorman Type R's, I figured I would chime in on my setup..... (btw looking to make 220whp DD) see what you guys think

GSR Block (Bored .25 over and honed)
PCT's (yeh i know i know....)
BC Headgasket
ARP head studs and rod bolts
OEM bearings
B16 Head(Not sure if I'm going to get port and polish or not)
Skunk2 Stage 2 cams (Want to upgrade to Pro1's, but my builder told me the Stage 2's would be better for DD)
Skunk2 Springs and Retainers
OEM guides, valve seals, and cam seals
Skunk2 IM
Skunk2 Cam gears
Hytech Header(Or RMF narrow, not sure which header to go with here)
BC II Exhaust
RC 310cc
Walbro 255 Pump
Will be tuned with Hondata

 

Way to tread-jack...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by st9vex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">While where on the subject of Poorman Type R's, I figured I would chime in on my setup..... (btw looking to make 220whp DD) see what you guys think

GSR Block (Bored .25 over and honed)
PCT's (yeh i know i know....)
BC Headgasket
ARP head studs and rod bolts
OEM bearings
B16 Head(Not sure if I'm going to get port and polish or not)
Skunk2 Stage 2 cams (Want to upgrade to Pro1's, but my builder told me the Stage 2's would be better for DD)
Skunk2 Springs and Retainers
OEM guides, valve seals, and cam seals
Skunk2 IM
Skunk2 Cam gears
Hytech Header(Or RMF narrow, not sure which header to go with here)
BC II Exhaust
RC 310cc
Walbro 255 Pump
Will be tuned with Hondata


</TD></TR></TABLE>

A good P&P and valve job will help make your hp goal a reality.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93EGB18C1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Way to tread-jack...</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha... I was thinking that. the more the marrier, I guess... as long as we tend to the OP's ?'s first.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MurdersV8s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was just quoted by my local machine shop. Prices are as follows...

Balance crank- $200-250

Bore- $100

Hot tank- $100

Piston/rings install- $90

Install crank- $200-300

Does this sound like descent prices or am I being ripped off? </TD></TR></TABLE>

i dont know where your at but usually around here just a hot tank is about 50$,and for the boring is about 10$ a hole. just get the main,rod journals,the i.d. of the mains,rods,and cylinder walls measured/blueprinted and install them your self.
if your gonna get the crank balanced i would send it to somewhere like castillo's or bensons unless the shop is well know with honda motors.

 

The valves were adjusted by the honda manual standards, but my guy did not degree them. I took my car to my local mechanic and he instantly heard the valve tapping the pistons. He said I had a few miles before the motor was going to blow. The funny part was I was on my way to a tuner when all of a sudden BAM! Smoked poured thru my car and I had a hole the size of a bic lighter in my block.

st9vex- Dick! jk lol.

4ghatch- My shop happens to be in my town which makes life easier. They mostly work on domestics and some dsms. I asked him how many honda motors they have worked on. He replied that abt machine has messed with hondas for 5-6 years. I think I will look into what you suggested about that crank. The only problem is that I am located in MA so that would take awhile. Thank again.