Recently I changed the exhaust (see other post). Now I am sure the noise I used to hear is from noisy valves. Will seafoam quieten it?

On adjusting the valves (the link in FAQ), the last step says to re-tighten the crank-shaft nut. Does it imply the crankshaft nut is to be loosened? I am missing something here.

 

if the valves need to be adjusted, then seafoam will not get rid of the noise, the only way to do it will be to physically adjust them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lapog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Recently I changed the exhaust (see other post). Now I am sure the noise I used to hear is from noisy valves. Will seafoam quieten it?

On adjusting the valves (the link in FAQ), the last step says to re-tighten the crank-shaft nut. Does it imply the crankshaft nut is to be loosened? I am missing something here.</TD></TR></TABLE>


dose your car sound like its knocking kinda like a diesel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01_CLtypeS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


dose your car sound like its knocking kinda like a diesel? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes... that's exactly the sound ... like a diesel... especially when I give more gas.

 

No, Seafoam will not fix that. You need to physically adjust the valves using the proper procedure. Seafoam is used to clean things, not fix mechanical problems.

 

Your car needs a valve lash adjustment. And no you dont loosen the crank pulley when adjusting valve lash. You should buy the tool to holds the screw head steady while you tighten down the retaining nut.

All the info you need is in the accord FAQ's

That seafoam crap just helps clean your fuel system and it MIGHT help destroy carbon build up, but its a waste of money. IMHO.

Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lapog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes... that's exactly the sound ... like a diesel... especially when I give more gas.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i had this problem with my 96 accord Lx a few years back....i took it to honda and the shop foreman said that it is normal for 94-97 accord Lx's...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01_CLtypeS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i had this problem with my 96 accord Lx a few years back....i took it to honda and the shop foreman said that it is normal for 94-97 accord Lx's... </TD></TR></TABLE>

They have the typical sewing machine sound, but you really should adjust the valves every once in a while. Mine are due for adjustment now as well.

 

yeah ive got the same problem, i dont know if the valves have ever been adjusted, how important is it?

 

FYI... it's a bolt, not a nut, that holds the crankshaft pulley on.

 

It's very important to do it ASAP. If the valve lash is out of adjustment it can wear on parts faster. Also, it changes the profile of the cam slightly, so if they're too lose you may experience some power loss. If they're too tight that means there's not enough clearance between the valve and the rocker arm and it's going to wear down both of these parts faster.

 

Tip: don't do the whole Haynes manual "slight drag when you withdraw the gauge" thing. Keep the gauge in between the rocker and the valve and pull it back and forth while tightening the screw until it starts getting really hard to pull it back and forth, then back it off a teeny bit. Take your gauge out and lock down the nut.

I did the remove-with-a-drag thing and ended up with half my valves really loose the first time. If you get one of those gauge sets with 25 different blades, take the .010 and .012 off by themselves, the F22 is cramped up top (you'll love doing the number 2 and 3 intake side)

 

their are many different methods. One sure way is a go, no-go way. You use the low/mid feeler gauge and set it to that with slight drag. Tighten the nut and then torque it. Then take the lowest feeler gauge for the gap and that should slide in, then take a feeler gauge thats one step higher than the highest and that should not go in.

I hope that makes sense.

It just helps those who may not be comfortable with getting the exact feel for the drag there should be. And always be sure to double check after you've torqued the lock nut and before you move onto the next set.

 

Thanks everyone!

I plan to adjust the valves this weekend. How long does this take?

Also, I recently changed the valve-cover gasket, do I need to change it again? Hopefully no.

 

not sure on the time, don't usually time myself when I do things. But give yourself an hour, start to finish.

If you replaced the gasket recently then you should be fine. If it starts leaking later, it's a quick and easy fix anyway.

 

Thanks! I plan on doing it this weekend....will update on how it went.

 

Yea, I did my valves the same way TouringAccord did. I took the smallest size feeler gauge that was within spec and made it so it would slide in between the rocker arm and valve pretty easy and then tightened down the nut. Then I took the largest size feeler gauge that was within spec and checked to make sure that it would barely be able to fit into the gap. This told me that I was within the spec.

 

OK... so I adjusted the valves. Since this is the first time I did, it took me about 3 hrs. I was slow. The toughest part for me was to remove the timing belt's upper cover. Other than that everything went smooth.

I had a rude shock when I opened the valve-cover. The insides was BLACK with burnt oil deposits all over the engine. The previous owner perhaps never changed the oil. It was real bad. I hope to revive the engine. Over the summer, I plan of taking a tooth brush and scraping the inside clean, let it run for sometime, follow it up by a seafoam treatment and then change the oil. Someday, if I find time and inclination and a helping friend (and if I still own the car), I will pull the head and soak it and scrape it clean.

Anyway, about the valves... one or two valves were a bit off spec. I adjusted them back to spec. Otherwise they were OK.

I found some play in some of the rocker-arms, up-down play not sideways. Any opinions?

Finally, I still haven't found the source of the diesel sound. Any other suggestions?

Thanks for reading this long mail...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01_CLtypeS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i had this problem with my 96 accord Lx a few years back....i took it to honda and the shop foreman said that it is normal for 94-97 accord Lx's... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ha! Thats exactly what they told me... My 94' is a prime example of the sewing machine/diesel engine sounds.
Always figured the sewing machine sound was from the new engine design they went to in 94, and the diesel sound is from a slightly lean mixture for emissions. Who really knows. Im now at 190K miles and it doesn't seem to have hurt anything?!?