i've searched and read many of the already created threads about this topic but somehow, I'm still unable to get the car to start.

The car's starting recently, got worse and worse, it would crank longer before it turns over/starts. That happened for about a week, each time getting progressively worst. Then one day, while driving home, the car would "bog" (lack of word) when gas is added, the more gas that added, the more it'd bog and soon enough, the car just died. I pulled over and tried to start it again, cranking but never turned over/started since.

Battery replaced. Nothing
Spark Plugs changed. Nothing
I can hear the fuel prime (and that one notable click after). still nothing
Checked the cap and rotor, rotor's still in place, caps looks fine. yet, nothing still
Replaced distributor.... NOTHING

Update:
There is spark
There is fuel spewing out
The dizzy rotor spins

I've also removed my air filter, since in another thread, there was a unique case where it was the air filter being dirty. Still, won't start.

Checked TDC today. All matches.
Distributor rotor on #1 when at TDC.
Here's a video of how it sounds when it starts...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=0ar3RQslVDs
Update

ECU swapped with known working. Nothing
Spark Plug Wires swapped with known working. Nothing
Compression: 135-170-160-165
Dizzy gets spark because spark plugs are getting spark.
Car was jump started, to ensure it wasn't battery. Nothing


Modified by fms1day at 10:39 PM 2/8/2008


Modified by fms1day at 10:40 PM 2/8/2008

 

Start with code check:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557

It's stickied at the top of the forum. Use the search function while you're at it. That should get you started.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Start with code check:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557

It's stickied at the top of the forum. Use the search function while you're at it. That should get you started.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've searched plenty, and going down the list of possibilities that other threads mention. Now that I'm narrowing down the list and the car still doesn't run, I figured I need to ask H-T.

I just did the CEL Code check:
The CEL just stays on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fms1day &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've searched plenty, and going down the list of possibilities that other threads mention. Now that I'm narrowing down the list and the car still doesn't run, I figured I need to ask H-T.

I just did the CEL Code check:
The CEL just stays on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You jumpered the service check connector and such, and the CEL just stays solid?

 

you'll have to get a code reader and find out what the computer has stored

 

a car just came into our shop that did the samethings, his was his timing belt, some teeth sheered off the belt, and the car wouldnt start either, but acted like it wanted, the belt wasnt turning the cams and crank together.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. ***** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a car just came into our shop that did the samethings, his was his timing belt, some teeth sheered off the belt, and the car wouldnt start either, but acted like it wanted, the belt wasnt turning the cams and crank together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sheared teeth off the T-belt? Man... never seen that one. I've seen broken belts and belts that were stretched, but never seen one shear teeth... Usually they just break.

Interesting... I wonder what caused it to sieze just long enough to shear teeth without breaking the belt... ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You jumpered the service check connector and such, and the CEL just stays solid?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes sir, put a wire into the two slots in the connector, turned the car to where the lights come on, and the CEL just stayed solid, I waited for about 10-15 seconds too. Just solid.

I'll try to check for fuel by removing the fuel line and see if fuel spews out; and for spark tomorrow morning.

What else should I still be going for here? Maybe change the timing belt? Better yet, how can I tell the timing belt is bad? (What stumps me is that most of these parts are 10k or less old)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sheared teeth off the T-belt? Man... never seen that one. I've seen broken belts and belts that were stretched, but never seen one shear teeth... Usually they just break.

Interesting... I wonder what caused it to sieze just long enough to shear teeth without breaking the belt... ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sheering teeth is a bad way to put it, it basically grinds them off, one for instance i have seen with my own eyes as the timing cover came off. a Lexus sc300 (inline 6). Car ran like **** never had a timing belt put on it it was around 110k (i was shocked it wasn't broken) i pulled the timing cover to do the timing belt and a headgasket long story car was a pile of ****. When i pulled the timing cover i looked at it in awe, at least 13 teeth were missing off of this belt and it did jump about that same number of teeth, the cam seals leaking onto the belt weakened it enough to do that but not break.

Yes it could be your timing belt, pull the top cover its 3 or 4 10mm bolts if memory serves me correctly. just to check.

Your car dosn't have a mass air flow sensor/meter/etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blackcivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sheering teeth is a bad way to put it, it basically grinds them off, one for instance i have seen with my own eyes as the timing cover came off. a Lexus sc300 (inline 6). Car ran like **** never had a timing belt put on it it was around 110k (i was shocked it wasn't broken) i pulled the timing cover to do the timing belt and a headgasket long story car was a pile of ****. When i pulled the timing cover i looked at it in awe, at least 13 teeth were missing off of this belt and it did jump about that same number of teeth, the cam seals leaking onto the belt weakened it enough to do that but not break.

Yes it could be your timing belt, pull the top cover its 3 or 4 10mm bolts if memory serves me correctly. just to check.

Your car dosn't have a mass air flow sensor/meter/etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Will check timing belt tomorrow as well as the fuel and spark testing... What should I be looking for on the timing belt? I'm sure I'm trying to find some missing teeth correct? Whether it's worn, grinded down, etc? How should good ones look, by the way? (Yes I know, I'm an '04 member, but I'm still somewhat new, at least to some of the mechanical portions. )

 

easy way to check the timing belt isn't broken is to just remove the dist cap and have a friend bump the starter. If the rotor spins then the belt isn't broken. Put the cap back on and check for spark. Just pull a plug out hold it against the head and crank if you don't have a spark you more then likely have a bad coil inside the dist. Search for no spark there are a ton of write ups on how to test the coil with a multi meter or you could just replace it 9 times out of 10 if you have no spark it is the coil pack.

 

I just tested a reman. distributor and the car still didn't turn so I might eliminate the coil as being an issue, but of course that can still lead to the cap and rotor, however the cap looks perfectly fine.

As for the timing belt check, you're saying take the dizzy cap off to expose the rotor, then have a friend "try to start the car?" and look at the timing belt, if it moves, then the belt is not "broken". But that doesn't eliminate the possibility of grinded down teeths right?

 

MY FRIENDS DID THE SAME THING BUT THEN WE FOUND OUT HE BROKE THE CAM IN HALF SO IT TURN AND SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS OFF TIME BUT IT WASNT TURNIN THE DIZZY END SO WE REPLACED HEAD AND IT STARTED LIKE NOTHING

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fms1day &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As for the timing belt check, you're saying take the dizzy cap off to expose the rotor, then have a friend "try to start the car?" and look at the timing belt, if it moves, then the belt is not "broken". But that doesn't eliminate the possibility of grinded down teeths right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you won't see the timing belt just watch the rotor. if it spins the timing belt isn't broken. If you want to know if the belt has slipped you need to remove the valve cover spin the crank over with a socket and try an line up the timing marks to tdc on cylinder #1

 

Update:

There is spark
There is fuel spewing out
The dizzy rotor spins

I've also removed my air filter, since in another thread, there was a unique case where it was the air filter being dirty. Still, won't start.

Help guys.

 

recheck your timing. if you have all those components listed, it should start... and how's the battery voltage?

 

The belt could have jumped timing, the ECU could be bad also, or bad maf sensor. If the a/f ratio is not correct it will not run correctly or at all, when you jump the ecu and it just stays on I would get it checked.

 

im not real sure for a honda, but everytime you replace the distributor you should always set tdc and the rotor to #1.

 

I'll definitely have to check the belt, perhaps replace it while I'm at it? At the same time, I'll redo the distributor to TDC.

How does one fix a "jump" timing? Or where the belt jumps?

 

re-time it, check all marks, then undo tensioner and redo timing belt.

 

can't re-time it because the car won't start.. so how do I essentially "reset" the timing belt positioning? So that it's put on correctly again if it did indeed jump?

Do I just follow the Helms? section 6-58 onwards?

 

Do you know how to get your engine to Top dead center on piston #1? If not you need to figure that out first. After your engine is set to TDC, you have to align 2 or 3 arrows, The Helms manual will be able to assist you in where the timing notches are located. When the crank pully is at TDC and any of the timing notches are off then your timing belt jumped, and needs to be replaced.

That is about a 5 hour job to replace the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. It also wont hurt to pull off the head and check for any piston or valve damage.

 

Yeah I set the cam today to TDC... Crankpulley was aligned as well...
I read somewhere that at TDC, the distributor rotor blade should be over the #1 Spark on the cap? Is this true?

Here's a video of how it sounds when it starts...

http://youtube.com/watch?v=0ar3RQslVDs

 

#1. a solid check engine light usually means bad computer.
#2. the symptom of a long crank, and eventually a no start leads one to believe either fuel pressure problem, weak spark or a compression problem.
if you have fuel and spark, as long as your computer is good theres only one other thing to check.. an old timer trick is to take all spark plugs out, drip a little bit (about a teaspoon) of oil into each cylinder through the spark plug hole. put everything back together see if she starts..
...no i didnt listen to the video..

 

dizzy's rotor has to be on number one, im not quite sure for honda application.. most of the time you have to set it everytime you swap the distributor out. seems like your car is low on battery. any spark at the dizzy itself?