my clutch is slipping so im almost positive its going out. I just replaced the clutch 20k ago with a exedy oem clutch kit but i didnt change the flywheel, and i couldnt get it resurfaced due to the shops around here refusing to, and i couldnt afford to replace it at the time.

anyways, im about to tear into the honda once again and change out the clutch, flywheel, and all that other crap. I am trying to decide what to buy though. I am running a stock setup so im wondering if the car would still be steetable with a lightweight flywheel or if i should just keep it oem. Also should i keep the clutch oem or go stage 2 or what? i dont know much about this stuff...only that it was a bitch to change it last time and im not looking forward to doing it again.

any help would be appreciated thanks

 

ACT clutch, ACT HD pressure plate, OEM disc, and OEM throw out bearing and you're set. The flywheel, you can stay with OEM or get a lightened one like Fidanza, Toda, Spoon. Fidanza being the cheapest.

 

there's no reason to go to a "stage whatever" clutch, unless you are pushing a significant power increase over stock...

getting a flywheel wouldn't hurt, and the act package w/ the hd pressure plate is more than adequate for you....

i would be more concerned as to what caused you to burn through a clutch in 20,xxx miles...but count me in on the act setup w/ a lightened flywheel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by papa5murf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ACT clutch, ACT HD pressure plate, OEM disc, and OEM throw out bearing and you're set. The flywheel, you can stay with OEM or get a lightened one like Fidanza, Toda, Spoon. Fidanza being the cheapest. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i was looking at the fidanza flywheel but i wasnt sure if it was garbage or not.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GRAF-FITI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i would be more concerned as to what caused you to burn through a clutch in 20,xxx miles...but count me in on the act setup w/ a lightened flywheel </TD></TR></TABLE>

i threw the old flywheel back on without resurfacing it, all i did was mark it up with some sand paper....im thinking that could be a factor of why it wore out so fast.

i also think i could of overheated the clutch or something. i have no idea.

 

so would something like this be complete garbage (again i dont know **** about this stuff)...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

i am just looking for an inexpensive but reliable solution, im not looking into tracking the car...and its not my dd, im just tight on cash since im 18, a full-time student, and just doing some I/T stuff on the side

 

Hardtopguy sells the package I posted above for like $1000 (with a flywheel I believe), if you can't afford that......

You can get the setup I have in my car. The Spec Stage 1. http://www.importtuninggarage.com/specclutch1.html $500 for the clutch, pressure plate, disk, and throwout baring. It handles up to 320ft/lb so it's pretty much good for anything you do to the car if you are to go boost in the future.

The clutch is really soft, feels like stock, I have no complaints about it during traffic, it grabs nicely and all. The only complaint I have about it, is the clutch buzz. It's pretty damn loud. However, it might have been a mistake by me when I did the install (it took a good 9hours, and I was sick and tired of it, and just slapped it together to get it done and over with). So I might have messed up with the alignment or what not, I also did it on jackstands so.... Maybe a stock disk (the replacement for the TSB that was out on the clutch buzz) might be a better replacement to go with to see if that eliminates the buzz or not. Or was it the pressure plate that was part of the TSB? :thinker:

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by papa5murf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hardtopguy sells the package I posted above for like $1000 (with a flywheel I believe), if you can't afford that......

You can get the setup I have in my car. The Spec Stage 1. http://www.importtuninggarage.com/specclutch1.html $500 for the clutch, pressure plate, disk, and throwout baring. It handles up to 320ft/lb so it's pretty much good for anything you do to the car if you are to go boost in the future.

The clutch is really soft, feels like stock, I have no complaints about it during traffic, it grabs nicely and all. The only complaint I have about it, is the clutch buzz. It's pretty damn loud. However, it might have been a mistake by me when I did the install (it took a good 9hours, and I was sick and tired of it, and just slapped it together to get it done and over with). So I might have messed up with the alignment or what not, I also did it on jackstands so.... Maybe a stock disk (the replacement for the TSB that was out on the clutch buzz) might be a better replacement to go with to see if that eliminates the buzz or not. Or was it the pressure plate that was part of the TSB? :thinker:</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the help i found some act clutch kits on ebay for around 500. i know what you mean, it took me atleast 9 hours last time,a nd i most likely did something wrong on mine last time too. I have a lift but i didnt have a transmission jack so it was a struggle....i have a tranny jack now though so hopefully it wont be that difficult. The only thing that pissed me off last time was the damn bolt on the other side of the bell housing that requires you to use like 3 extensions

i need the torque specs for the flywheel again too, if i recall correctly it was like 93 lbs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReddotsS2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i threw the old flywheel back on without resurfacing it, all i did was mark it up with some sand paper....im thinking that could be a factor of why it wore out so fast.

i also think i could of overheated the clutch or something. i have no idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that definately could have contributed to premature failure

 

first, why did the machine shops refuse to resurface your flywheel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S@nt0s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first, why did the machine shops refuse to resurface your flywheel?</TD></TR></TABLE>
they said that honda sent them a bulitin or something saying they they couldnt. He said "i can shave a fraction of a milimeter off but the last time a did an s2000 flywheel for phantasm (local raleigh shop that i would never use), it slipped when they put it back on". So i just decided to throw it back on...it wasnt cracking or anything.

 

WTF??? now why would honda send a machine shop a bulletin???
did they show you this??
its a flywheel and to resurface was a needed thing...
just resurface your OEM one save yourself a few hundred $

 

^ More like the guy didn't want to do it. LOL.

 

yeah i have no idea, thats just what they told me. has anyone here had one resurfaced?

the guy also only had one arm which i would imagine would make his job a lot more difficult

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReddotsS2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah i have no idea, thats just what they told me. has anyone here had one resurfaced?

the guy also only had one arm which i would imagine would make his job a lot more difficult</TD></TR></TABLE>

one arm?! you kinda need those to be a mechanic i'd think.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by papa5murf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hardtopguy sells the package I posted above for like $1000 (with a flywheel I believe), if you can't afford that......

You can get the setup I have in my car. The Spec Stage 1. http://www.importtuninggarage.com/specclutch1.html $500 for the clutch, pressure plate, disk, and throwout baring. It handles up to 320ft/lb so it's pretty much good for anything you do to the car if you are to go boost in the future.

The clutch is really soft, feels like stock, I have no complaints about it during traffic, it grabs nicely and all. The only complaint I have about it, is the clutch buzz. It's pretty damn loud. However, it might have been a mistake by me when I did the install (it took a good 9hours, and I was sick and tired of it, and just slapped it together to get it done and over with). So I might have messed up with the alignment or what not, I also did it on jackstands so.... Maybe a stock disk (the replacement for the TSB that was out on the clutch buzz) might be a better replacement to go with to see if that eliminates the buzz or not. Or was it the pressure plate that was part of the TSB? :thinker:</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe its the clutch disc. i'm in the delimna of getting the full act kit or the HTG kit with the stock disc. How bearable is the act disc ? is the buzz louder than say, stereo volume at half on stock deck ? will an exhuast drown out the buzz ?

 

In my case with the Spec clutch, I can hear it over my exhaust and stereo when I'm engine braking. It's a pain in my *** to be honest with you.

 

It prolly wore out that quik cause you never took the time to break it in when it was installed. I went from a act 6 puck unsprung clutch to the exedy oem disc and plate on my old teg for my sister and I never resurfaced the flywheel cause I didnt have time and I did this in my driveway. After acouple hundred miles of city driving babying the clutch its fine. I can still chirp the **** outa third gear on it. Plus another reason is prolly your driving style I think it was you also that went through 2 diffs allready right??? You should maybe take it a lil easier when driving it hard.

 

What do you guys think about a heavy pressure plate and a oem disc?

 

^^ thats basicly what the ACT kit is. It works good from what I hear

 

It is true, honda does not recommend to have their flywheels resurfaced because of stepped pressure plate mounting surface. This is only true when it comes to using the oem stuff, as far as aftermarket pressure plates go i have no idea. You have to contact the manufacturer to see whether they use a stepped surface. For the oem stuff I never resurfaced them at the dealer, I would only replace it if the flywheel had heat cracks or were beyond runout spec.
On my personal and friends cars I always resurface the oem flywheel for the peace of mind but that was with aftermarket clutch kits.
The sand paper could possibly been a contributing factor to yours prematurely wearing out but who knows, next time try using a rubber/plastic compound to clean it off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexmyrex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is true, honda does not recommend to have their flywheels resurfaced because of stepped pressure plate mounting surface. This is only true when it comes to using the oem stuff, as far as aftermarket pressure plates go i have no idea. </TD></TR></TABLE>

heard this from the guy who resurfaced my ap1 flywheel last year. i used an act PP/clutch disk the next time around though so i dunno if it mattered.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M.A.R.C. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

heard this from the guy who resurfaced my ap1 flywheel last year. i used an act PP/clutch disk the next time around though so i dunno if it mattered. </TD></TR></TABLE>

im glad it wasnt just me then..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black S2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Plus another reason is prolly your driving style I think it was you also that went through 2 diffs allready right??? You should maybe take it a lil easier when driving it hard. </TD></TR></TABLE>

it may be my driving style but i doubt that. I have abused my bimmer way more than the s2k, for many more miles (the odometer is at 165,xxx) and never had any problem in the drivetrain what so ever. I just think honda sucks *** at making qaulity products...even though i love me s i have to admit it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReddotsS2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im glad it wasnt just me then..

it may be my driving style but i doubt that. I have abused my bimmer way more than the s2k, for many more miles (the odometer is at 165,xxx) and never had any problem in the drivetrain what so ever. I just think honda sucks *** at making qaulity products...even though i love me s i have to admit it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

....


WHAT!?!?!?!

in all my time on h-t I have never, ever witnessed a single statement more unbelieveable than that one right there.

i have to ask one question:

ARE
YOU
*******
SERIOUS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Techno Tonis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

....


WHAT!?!?!?!

in all my time on h-t I have never, ever witnessed a single statement more unbelieveable than that one right there.

i have to ask one question:

ARE
YOU
*******
SERIOUS</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha im sorta serious...i mean we are entitled to our own opinions, right?. I am just going by experience. I am 18, i have had 4 cars total so far (3 german) , and i still have three of them. Out of these cars the honda has been the most unreliable, the most costly, and the cheapest quality out of these vehicles. Don't get me wrong though, the s2k is one of a kind and i never plan to get rid of it. It is an amzing machine with a lot of potential, and will outhandle most cars on the street.....it just isnt built like a tank or to be a daily driver. Never in my life have i seen a alternator crack...but on my s2k, it did. Why cant honda just make a better differential? It just doesnt make sense to me. Sorry if i offended you. I guess my driving style requires a car that can handle it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ReddotsS2K &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha im sorta serious...i mean we are entitled to our own opinions, right?. I am just going by experience. I am 18, i have had 4 cars total so far (3 german) , and i still have three of them. Out of these cars the honda has been the most unreliable, the most costly, and the cheapest quality out of these vehicles. Don't get me wrong though, the s2k is one of a kind and i never plan to get rid of it. It is an amzing machine with a lot of potential, and will outhandle most cars on the street.....it just isnt built like a tank or to be a daily driver. Never in my life have i seen a alternator crack...but on my s2k, it did. Why cant honda just make a better differential? It just doesnt make sense to me. Sorry if i offended you. I guess my driving style requires a car that can handle it. </TD></TR></TABLE>


i mean... honda quality.... pretty much speaks for it self dude. I mean, other than toyota possibly...there literally is no other car company in the world with LESS problems per 100 vehicles.

I was just SHOCKED you were comparing it to the quality of a VW, which usally fall apart just by looking at them the wrong way...

the quality of bmw is fine, i guess...but the parts are retardly expensive sometimes, and the labor costs can be simply ridiculous, just because bmw can't design an engine where you cant replace a timing belt, without removing every other component.

so yeah, its VERY odd to me that your bmw and vw have more quality than your S.