Just swapped my gsr in my 2000 civic and its running rich, and throwing code 4
I just Swapped in my 94 gsr.
Wisco pistons 81.5mm 9.1cr
Scat H-Beams
acl bearings
all new gskets and seals
So when i first started it it seemed to run ok. then the next day i start to put everything back together and start it again it runs rough and really rich smells like raw gas comming out the tail pipe and lots of condonsation.
Its throwing a code 4 which is the ckp sensor in the cel, i had to do a 0bd2a to obd2b rewire for the distributor im not 100% sure i did it right either
also im running on 0BD1 p72 ecu JDM B18C AND jdm P72
Any ones advice would be a big help
Modified by LastGenEK at 11:28 AM 2/2/2008
Modified by LastGenEK at 2:17 PM 2/2/2008
Wisco pistons 81.5mm 9.1cr
Scat H-Beams
acl bearings
all new gskets and seals
So when i first started it it seemed to run ok. then the next day i start to put everything back together and start it again it runs rough and really rich smells like raw gas comming out the tail pipe and lots of condonsation.
Its throwing a code 4 which is the ckp sensor in the cel, i had to do a 0bd2a to obd2b rewire for the distributor im not 100% sure i did it right either
also im running on 0BD1 p72 ecu JDM B18C AND jdm P72
Any ones advice would be a big help
Modified by LastGenEK at 11:28 AM 2/2/2008
Modified by LastGenEK at 2:17 PM 2/2/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sorrule »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be your comp ratio and you running a stock ecu</TD></TR></TABLE>
I thought about it being my comp ratio, But it seems very rich. the first five seconds of turning my car on it fills the garage up with fumes?
Can a bad CKP cause this?
I thought about it being my comp ratio, But it seems very rich. the first five seconds of turning my car on it fills the garage up with fumes?
Can a bad CKP cause this?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">runs rough and really rich smells like raw gas comming out the tail pipe and lots of condonsation.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just because it smells rich doesn't mean it is running rich. I hate when people make assumptions like this. Did you put a wideband on it to see if it really was running rich? Was the car cold when you made this assumption? The car WILL run rich when its cold, its supposed to...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its throwing a code 4 which is the ckp sensor in the cel, i had to do a 0bd2a to obd2b rewire for the distributor im not 100% sure i did it right either</TD></TR></TABLE>
The crank position sensor is in the distributor. You either have a bad one or you did something seriously wrong with your "conversion". YES, this is going to make your car run like crap. Fix it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also im running on 0BD1 p72 ecu JDM B18C AND jdm P72
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh? Your running an OBD1 ecu AND a JDM P72? Two ECU's at once eh? Pretty slick.
Just because it smells rich doesn't mean it is running rich. I hate when people make assumptions like this. Did you put a wideband on it to see if it really was running rich? Was the car cold when you made this assumption? The car WILL run rich when its cold, its supposed to...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its throwing a code 4 which is the ckp sensor in the cel, i had to do a 0bd2a to obd2b rewire for the distributor im not 100% sure i did it right either</TD></TR></TABLE>
The crank position sensor is in the distributor. You either have a bad one or you did something seriously wrong with your "conversion". YES, this is going to make your car run like crap. Fix it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also im running on 0BD1 p72 ecu JDM B18C AND jdm P72
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh? Your running an OBD1 ecu AND a JDM P72? Two ECU's at once eh? Pretty slick.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Huh? Your running an OBD1 ecu AND a JDM P72? Two ECU's at once eh? Pretty slick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just stating what setup im running on.
No i havnt put it on a wide band.
Yes it was a cold run, i didn want to run it too long running that way because i wasnt sure if it woud damage anything.
Ill start it up tomarow and see how it runs after operating temp.
Question are 0BD2A and 0BD2B distributor plug different?
Huh? Your running an OBD1 ecu AND a JDM P72? Two ECU's at once eh? Pretty slick.</TD></TR></TABLE>
just stating what setup im running on.
No i havnt put it on a wide band.
Yes it was a cold run, i didn want to run it too long running that way because i wasnt sure if it woud damage anything.
Ill start it up tomarow and see how it runs after operating temp.
Question are 0BD2A and 0BD2B distributor plug different?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
just stating what setup im running on.
No i havnt put it on a wide band.
Yes it was a cold run, i didn want to run it too long running that way because i wasnt sure if it woud damage anything.
Ill start it up tomarow and see how it runs after operating temp.
Question are 0BD2A and 0BD2B distributor plug different?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cold start will be rich, like I said...
Fix the code and see how it runs. With the code, its GOING to run like ***..
Yes. There is a "large" plug and a "Small" plug design. The larger plug is the 96-98 style. The 99-00 style uses a "small" plug design. Hope this helps.
just stating what setup im running on.
No i havnt put it on a wide band.
Yes it was a cold run, i didn want to run it too long running that way because i wasnt sure if it woud damage anything.
Ill start it up tomarow and see how it runs after operating temp.
Question are 0BD2A and 0BD2B distributor plug different?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cold start will be rich, like I said...
Fix the code and see how it runs. With the code, its GOING to run like ***..
Yes. There is a "large" plug and a "Small" plug design. The larger plug is the 96-98 style. The 99-00 style uses a "small" plug design. Hope this helps.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cold start will be rich, like I said...
Fix the code and see how it runs. With the code, its GOING to run like ***..
Yes. There is a "large" plug and a "Small" plug design. The larger plug is the 96-98 style. The 99-00 style uses a "small" plug design. Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes you helped alot.
If my CKP Sensor is bad in the disrtibutor, can the sensor be replaced? Or will i need a different/new distributor?
Cold start will be rich, like I said...
Fix the code and see how it runs. With the code, its GOING to run like ***..
Yes. There is a "large" plug and a "Small" plug design. The larger plug is the 96-98 style. The 99-00 style uses a "small" plug design. Hope this helps.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes you helped alot.
If my CKP Sensor is bad in the disrtibutor, can the sensor be replaced? Or will i need a different/new distributor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes you helped alot.
If my CKP Sensor is bad in the disrtibutor, can the sensor be replaced? Or will i need a different/new distributor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I am not saying the sensor itself IS bad. You could have something wired incorrectly. Also, check to see if the bearing is damaged on the shaft. Excessive play in the shaft will cause the readings on the three sensors in the dist to be incorrect and thus lead to a CEL. You can rebuild distributors fairly easily but most people simply buy new ones.
Yes you helped alot.
If my CKP Sensor is bad in the disrtibutor, can the sensor be replaced? Or will i need a different/new distributor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I am not saying the sensor itself IS bad. You could have something wired incorrectly. Also, check to see if the bearing is damaged on the shaft. Excessive play in the shaft will cause the readings on the three sensors in the dist to be incorrect and thus lead to a CEL. You can rebuild distributors fairly easily but most people simply buy new ones.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid96EK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well, I am not saying the sensor itself IS bad. You could have something wired incorrectly. Also, check to see if the bearing is damaged on the shaft. Excessive play in the shaft will cause the readings on the three sensors in the dist to be incorrect and thus lead to a CEL. You can rebuild distributors fairly easily but most people simply buy new ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked and rechecked my distributor wireing and its right. I followed the wires back to the ECU and they match to my schmatics
I bought a new distributor from Autozone. Pretty fair price $265 I hope this helps my problems!
Well, I am not saying the sensor itself IS bad. You could have something wired incorrectly. Also, check to see if the bearing is damaged on the shaft. Excessive play in the shaft will cause the readings on the three sensors in the dist to be incorrect and thus lead to a CEL. You can rebuild distributors fairly easily but most people simply buy new ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I checked and rechecked my distributor wireing and its right. I followed the wires back to the ECU and they match to my schmatics
I bought a new distributor from Autozone. Pretty fair price $265 I hope this helps my problems!
I agree but this is how i got this distributor and it turned out being a bad one so i figured ill buy one with a warranty not take the chance again.
If you think about it from a dealer its $965 plus cap and rotor...
Autozone $265 with Lifetime warranty(bull ****) but still its worth it IMO
If you think about it from a dealer its $965 plus cap and rotor...
Autozone $265 with Lifetime warranty(bull ****) but still its worth it IMO
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sorrule »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know the ebay ones are of the best quality either but it beats paying $265. Or you should of bought a used OEM working one IMO. I just think that's a pretty steep price.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Most "new" or reman Honda distributors aren't that good in quality. In my opinion, its best to rebuild the one you are having trouble with using another OEM unit.
Most "new" or reman Honda distributors aren't that good in quality. In my opinion, its best to rebuild the one you are having trouble with using another OEM unit.
OK Replaced my distributor, ran much better! Code 4 still there. I rechecked my wireing and it was all wrong. I had both CKP and CYP sensors wired incorrectly. soo i fixed both wire errors and it runs very well. But of course i do have another concern
My idel is at a consistant 1700rpm If I tap the gas pedal the idel will drop down to normal then rises back up to 1700
With it being like this i cannot do a propper timming on the car
Please help
My idel is at a consistant 1700rpm If I tap the gas pedal the idel will drop down to normal then rises back up to 1700
With it being like this i cannot do a propper timming on the car
Please help
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK Replaced my distributor, ran much better! Code 4 still there. I rechecked my wireing and it was all wrong. I had both CKP and CYP sensors wired incorrectly. soo i fixed both wire errors and it runs very well. But of course i do have another concern
My idel is at a consistant 1700rpm If I tap the gas pedal the idel will drop down to normal then rises back up to 1700
With it being like this i cannot do a propper timming on the car
Please help</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check for vac leaks. Sounds a lot like you have a rather large one.
My idel is at a consistant 1700rpm If I tap the gas pedal the idel will drop down to normal then rises back up to 1700
With it being like this i cannot do a propper timming on the car
Please help</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check for vac leaks. Sounds a lot like you have a rather large one.
I Found the vac Leak. It was the hose from under the intake manifold that goes to the little catch can on the back of the motor.
Yeah it was leeaking pretty good. when i found it and pluged it with my finger with the engine runnig it killed the motor
Thanks HybridEK You have been more help than you know
Yeah it was leeaking pretty good. when i found it and pluged it with my finger with the engine runnig it killed the motor
Thanks HybridEK You have been more help than you know
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LastGenEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I Found the vac Leak. It was the hose from under the intake manifold that goes to the little catch can on the back of the motor.
Yeah it was leeaking pretty good. when i found it and pluged it with my finger with the engine runnig it killed the motor
Thanks HybridEK You have been more help than you know
</TD></TR></TABLE>
No problem. You know I am local also if you need any more help. PM me or hit me up on AIM and I'll talk with you more.
Yeah it was leeaking pretty good. when i found it and pluged it with my finger with the engine runnig it killed the motor
Thanks HybridEK You have been more help than you know
</TD></TR></TABLE>No problem. You know I am local also if you need any more help. PM me or hit me up on AIM and I'll talk with you more.
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