Hi, hope someone can help me!

I have a 2000 Honda Accord 4cyl LX. Several month ago started getting engine code for Cylinder #2 misfire. Had spark plugs and wires replaced but code came back. Car continously sputters and hesitates for 10 seconds or so when I start it but then runs fine.

Recently found BIG puddle of antifreeze beneath engine and belt compartment. Had compression test and NO LEAKS. Left compression on all night. Said it wasn't water pump. Car had recently overheated causing seals to break. Had them replaced and timing belt replaced. Honda then said antifreeze leak was caused by Head Gasket but when they checked it they said it wasn't blown yet but to 'keep an eye on it'!

Where is this antifreeze leaking from?????? Replaced radiator cap already. What's causing sputtering when i start it? Is it the O2 sensors? HELP! I only have so much money left.

 

Run it by somewhere and have them run a coolant pressure tester on it as well as a block test. If they pass then get them do do a cylinder leakdown test. Not the same as a compression test. Alot more accurate. If there is an external coolant leak the coolant pressure tester will force it out and you'll be able to see it.

 

Great! Thanks for the reply to my post. I'll do what you suggested on Monday.

 

Test results after Cylinder Leakdown test:

Cylinder #1: pass
Cylinder #2: fail
Cylinder #3: fail
Cylinder #4: pass

Possible blown head gasket or cracked head. Antifreeze was leaking into cylinders and out of tail pipe.

 

heads are most likely not to crack...

 

What is it that you think is happening? Since last post engine light has come back on and missing again. Have almost saved 1,000 and want to get it fixed right.

 

get some new head studs and a new headgasket.


either do it yourself or bring it in.

hopefully, problem solved.


when coolant leaks into the cylinders you aren't going to get a complete burn and therefore a miss, and when you miss your car stutters.

Do you have like a white mist coming out of your tail pipe at all times? And how much coolant are you replacing when you do?

 

Hi! Thanks for writing back. Finally someone that sounds like they know what they're talking about - lol.

Anyway, I have white smoke/mist coming out of the tailpipe when I start my car but just for a few seconds and even when its hot outside. There is also a strong smell of exhaust at odd times.

I'm also still replacing antifreeze every 3 or 4 days, just a bit though. I've already had the entire cooling system replaced and there's no leaks there per compression test left on over night.

Do you think it might be a warped head??

 

Yeah, if 2 ajoining cylinders failed the leakdown then the head gasket is blown between them.

Why and how did your car overheat? What was the cause?

 

Hello Accorn,

The car was leaking antifreeze for a couple months and I didnt know it. I kept smelling something burning but didnt know what it was. Duh

Then one day I was sitting in traffic and watched the temp gauge shoot up to H. I pulled over and popped the hood and saw the reservoir was empty and filled it back up but a couple days later noticed all this oil on the carport. Took it in and mechanic said oil seals were gone. Mechanic said antifreeze was leaking because my radiator cap was shot.

Had all that replaced as well as lines, hoses, radiator and thermostat. Ugh! Then later engine light came on and that stuttering stuff started.

 

Ok, I'll definately take it in to have head gasket replaced for sure. I think that's better than a cracked block or something like that. THis is the last time I'm gonna have this much money at once so I appreciate all the help I can get.

 

I also had one other question that I hope you guys can answer. The mechanic I'm taking it to said the heads need to be pressure tested and or shaved (aluminum heads) as well as replacing the head gasket. Can I just replace the head gasket and skip the part with the heads as that would be cheaper.

Thanks

 

Is this a stock motor? first of all your head wont crack...second of all your block wont crack...most likely ur sleeves would crack...but then all motor cars are very rare to crack a sleeve...most likely they are to spin rod bearings....but back to your problem...check under your oil cap to see if there is milky crap under it...if so you need a new hg...cuz ur burning oil and coolant together...plus getting the head shaved...he meant getting it resurfaced...which is cheap insurance for the long run..and get new headstuds...

 

the job itself really isn't that hard either.. you seem like you know what your talking about.

basically its take off the valve cover, take out headstuds, disconnect anything thats in your way, take off intake manifold and exhaust manifold, take off head, either bring it into a machine shop if your worried, take off the headgasket and make sure the surfaces are clean, apply the new headgasket and some honda bond, and reinstall in reverse order, making sure to torque down the headstuds correctly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sony224422 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the job itself really isn't that hard either.. you seem like you know what your talking about.

basically its take off the valve cover, take out headstuds, disconnect anything thats in your way, take off intake manifold and exhaust manifold, take off head, either bring it into a machine shop if your worried, take off the headgasket and make sure the surfaces are clean, apply the new headgasket and some honda bond, and reinstall in reverse order, making sure to torque down the headstuds correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

just some common sense...take off the exhaust manifold...before pulling the head off...ahahha..and the intake manifold could be left on until head comes out...ahaha...and my advice is get the head resurfaced...in ur position you will need it...

 

Okay guys, thanks for all the information! Your advice and information to all of us is invaluable. Especially what JGAccorn said about getting the Cylinder leak down test because that pin pointed what the problem was. You would think after all I went through at least one of the mechanics I took my car to would have suggested this simple test.

I will also get the heads resurfaced like yall suggested. My mechanic quoted 800 for all of this so I guess that's a good price.

If this doesn't work though I'm going to drive my car into the river and hope it drowns.

 

what are the valve adjustments for the intake and exhaust ports for F22B2

 

Hi,

Are you asking ME? Beanboy? Because I have no idea what that is - lol.

I do, however, know where the gas cap is located, but that's about it.

 

800 is alot ahahahaha

 

Like I also mentioned a block test will tell you if the headgasket is blown or not also. It just does not pinpoint the area. What it does is check for combustion gases / pressures in the coolant passages. If your car has a blown gasket leaking coolant into the combustion chambers then it will show up on a block test. Same goes for a cracked head, block, and / or sleeves. It will detect ANY combustion leakage into the cooling system. Of course if it is a large enough leak you will have coolant boiling out of your overflow and your coolant will smell like rotten fish ***** and be all dingy brownish.

You can also check for crystal like deposits on the plugs. And like was mentioned before check the bottom side of the oil filler. Milky oil, over full oil (as long as the correct amount was added your last oilchange), white smoke, pinging, misfires. There are tons and tons of ways to tell.

 

Hi JG,

I checked all those things. No milky oil, no deposits on spark plugs, no boiling over of antifreeze reservoir that I can tell. THe only thing that tells me something is wrong is that sputtering when I start the car and then the engine light that goes off and on and of course the Clylinder leak down test. I also had the mechanic do a block test and he said that came out alright. I dont really know if he did one though because he asked me what a block test was. WTF?

I'm taking the car in next week and will let you guys know what happened.

 

if the dude asked, FIND A NEW SHOP!!!!!!!!

 

COuld be possible that its a bad water pump

 

yeah, I'm not taking it to that guy who asked me what a block test was. I'm taking it to someone new. And 800 dollars was actually the cheapest estimate I got. I'm DEFINATELY not gonna try and fix it myself -lol.

I certainly thought it was the water pump too but both the Honda dealership and the guy who did the coolant pressure test said it was okay. The only thing I'm really afraid of is that this guy will tear down the entire engine and tell me the trouble was with my distributor cap. I think I'd have to shoot myself then.

 

what does ur distributor cap have to do with it?