Hi There,
I have a K20A (Type R) engine going into my EG this very moment and it should be complete within a week or so.
Im thinking of going turbo in a year or so and have started doing all my research around this topic so that I am well prepared when (or if) the time comes to do the turbo setup.

Now as we all know the K20A is high compression so going turbo is a little more complicated. I want it to be reliable (or rather, "as reliable as possible") and so do not want to spare any expense to have this done properly.

Now, I believe I have already decided on a turbo kit and thats the Full Race EG K Series Hybrid T3 ProStreet Stage 2 GT (GT3076R):
http://www.full-race.com/catal...23789

Since I am only looking to make 300-400 whp (max) - I think this turbo will suite me perfectly.

I've seen or heard of K20A's being pushed to 14psi reliably on stock internals which is quite suprising to me since they are such high compression engines.

I am thinking of maybe running a low/high boost setup with 4psi low boost and 8psi high boost.

What are your guys opinions on a setup like this and has anyone here had experience boosting a K20A?


Just some more info on my current setup:
K20A
92-95 Civic EG Sedan
DTR/SSR 4-2-1 Stainless Steel Header
Hondata K-Pro
Hybrid Racing Mounts
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail
AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
AEM Hybrid Induction Kit
Custom Exhaust System


Even though I have heard of people running up to 14psi on stock internals "reliably", I still think I should get some forged internals to be extra safe. What would you guys suggest?

 

If your only going to boost 8psi on the k20, might as well not boost at all. Your Kpro along with the right size injectors and tune would be perfect for a nice 10psi street and 15psi high boost ride.

 

Weve seen best results on SC61mm Precision turbos or GT35r's....Same size comp wheel.....

 

Hey sctuned.com,
I think I would still see a nice increase, but Im sure why youre voting against it is because its such a low boost value that the $ -> kW isn't really worth it?
Anyway, I would push more - but I need to know what internals I would need?
So far Im thinking Wiseco pistons (which ones?) and some ARP headstuds. Which rods and injectors should I go for? Im thinking 750cc perhaps. I just dont know whats "top quality" out there in terms of injectors and rods?

I want the GT30 because it will spool quicker and remember, Im only looking to make inbetween 300-400 whp - nothing more, so there is no need for a GT35 I believe.

(Thanks for the ocmments so far)

 

Search @ Clubrsx.com, not to say anybody on here would not know, just an idea. The stock block of a K20A2 will handle 400WHP w/ a good tune. there are some on Club RSX making 500WHP on stock bottom end!! Depends on how Risky you want to be...... IMO the GT3076R shines on race gas and unless your willing to run in the 400-500whp you might be wasting -$$- on this turbo. Excellent choice if you want to be in this power range... Just my 2 cents....

 

I dont want to use anything other than 93 or 95 in the car, so race gas is out unfortunately.

Also, I know of clubrsx and have looked there - but unfortunatley its RSX only (basically) and that means K20A2 only; and Im interested in doing this to a K20A which is a whole new ball game

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupaMonkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey sctuned.com,
I think I would still see a nice increase, but Im sure why youre voting against it is because its such a low boost value that the $ -&gt; kW isn't really worth it?
Anyway, I would push more - but I need to know what internals I would need?
So far Im thinking Wiseco pistons (which ones?) and some ARP headstuds. Which rods and injectors should I go for? Im thinking 750cc perhaps. I just dont know whats "top quality" out there in terms of injectors and rods?

I want the GT30 because it will spool quicker and remember, Im only looking to make inbetween 300-400 whp - nothing more, so there is no need for a GT35 I believe.

(Thanks for the ocmments so far)</TD></TR></TABLE>

For 300-400 hp the factory motor will work fine. The 3076 wil work really good for those power goals as well.

If you do pistons etc.

Wiseco 9:1
Eagle Rods
ARP Head Studs
Cometic headgasket

That will work good

 

Thanks for those suggestions, will check them out

You say I can stay stock for my goal figures, if money wasnt a factor - would you still stay stock or would you build it with those rods/pistons - etc? I mean, they're stronger / more reliable than OEM right ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupaMonkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont want to use anything other than 93 or 95 in the car, so race gas is out unfortunately.

Also, I know of clubrsx and have looked there - but unfortunatley its RSX only (basically) and that means K20A2 only; and Im interested in doing this to a K20A which is a whole new ball game </TD></TR></TABLE>

when boosting and building the the k20 clubrsx and k20a.org is very informative in you goals. the a2 and a are not very different.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drpoomanchu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Search @ Clubrsx.com, not to say anybody on here would not know, just an idea. The stock block of a K20A2 will handle 400WHP w/ a good tune. there are some on Club RSX making 500WHP on stock bottom end!! Depends on how Risky you want to be...... IMO the GT3076R shines on race gas and unless your willing to run in the 400-500whp you might be wasting -$$- on this turbo. Excellent choice if you want to be in this power range... Just my 2 cents....</TD></TR></TABLE>

i made 600+ on stock k20a2 bottom end the dyno is on here. The 30r would be a good turbo for the OP

 

T<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T4eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i made 600+ on stock k20a2 bottom end the dyno is on here. The 30r would be a good turbo for the OP</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is amazing the K-series will handle 600hp/whp. Just goes to show you how well engineered these powerplants are........ Now they just need to reengineer the GearBox.......... or Gears.......... My friend has a RSX fully built running 550WHP. Hes half scared to race it this season due to the gear breakage........

 

For 300-400whp max even the 2871R or 3071R would meet your goals and offer faster spool and response.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LeGeND4LiFe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For 300-400whp max even the 2871R or 3071R would meet your goals and offer faster spool and response.</TD></TR></TABLE>

much agreed for those powergoals 300-400.....3071R..... But in his regard I would stick w/ NA why buy a K20A to go boost????

 

if your only going for 400hp, why not save a lot of money and go b-series turbo? I dont really see the advantage of going K when planning to boost. There's cheaper ways to make the power you want and be reliable.... just my .02 cents

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trav95civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your only going for 400hp, why not save a lot of money and go b-series turbo? </TD></TR></TABLE>

In a similar vein, six or seven 400 whp TT/Vitara D16 builds could be fielded for the price of one K-series build.

Meh, some of the factory K-series valvetrain sucks but the rest of the engine isn't too shabby, they are very stout. The gearboxes do make me sad, tho. FYI to the original poster? There's nothing more or less difficult about tuning a high CR engine than a low CR engine... as always, the engine likes what it likes and a good tuner can figure that out with little effort. All high CR means is you can make less power off of a given octane fuel before detonation sets in, nothing more. If the plugs read clean and the car makes good power you have nothing to worry about.

 

Thanks for the replies guys

PS: I already have a K20A - hence why its not going to be a B/D project