in my 92 civic hatch i have few mods to the suspension.
skun2 proS coilovers with skunk controls arms and rear tie bar.im on the road to getting more but this is what i have installed for now.
it seems that when i take the offramps at the max the car can handle the rear stays planted and the front that slides.when i say slides it like teh wheels is turned and the car goes straight so i have to let off agein then get back into the gas.
i have some ideas on what can help but im not gonna mention tehmi want to see what others have to say.thanks

 

better tires ftw

 

Understeer

 

Yeah what tires are you using?? Maybe you dont have enough - camber in the front, just a little - camber up front can improve front turning grip.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citystreetsbimmer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
skun2 proS coilovers with skunk controls arms and rear tie bar.im on the road to getting more but this is what i have installed for now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is this on the front and back or front only, i.e. are your springs / dampers matched front to rear?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citystreetsbimmer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it seems that when i take the offramps at the max the car can handle the rear stays planted and the front that slides.when i say slides it like teh wheels is turned and the car goes straight so i have to let off agein then get back into the gas.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You have terminal understeer. It could be that you are simply attempting to accelerate too hard and causing the front tyres to exceed their grip capacity. Tyres have X grip that can be described as 100% of available grip that can be apportioned in any direction or combination of directions. If you're cornering hard you might already be using say 90% of that available grip for lateral traction, but if you then try to also accelerate hard you may be asking for more than the remaining 10% in longitudinal grip, thus exceeding the capacity of the tyres to grip laterally or longitudinally and causing understeer, i.e. you are exceeding what the car in it's current set up can handle.

It may be that your front tyres are not as grippy as the rear tyres (which could be related to tthe tyres being different, or condition of the tyres, or front vs rear tyre pressures).

It could be that you have too little rear roll stiffness and this is causing too little rear weight transfer and too much front weight transfer, so in effect you have 'more rubber on the road' at the rear than the front (even if all four tyres are still loaded, having the weight loading more equally distributed between two contact patches on a single axle line line will result in more grip at that axle line relative to the other axle line if the other axle line has less equally distributed weight between it's two contact patches).

In this case you may need a stiffer rear ARB (or possibly stiffer rear springs, but only if the rear spring rates don't properly match the front spring rates). This will increase rear weight transfer and simultaneously decrease front weight transfer and move the basic grip balance toward the front.

Increasing front neg camber and / or caster might also be beneficial.

 

understeer homeslice.

invest in a rear sway bar. does your car have a front sway bar?

 

im not sure if i have a front sway bar im gonna say yeah i think its standerd on all civic 92+ i do not have a raer sway bar.the only suspension mods i have is listed.
skunk2 proC coilovers
rear lower tie bar
blox rear lower control arms
integra gsr wheels 15 inch
im looking for some more budget upgrades aswell . im open to any advice.
also my thought on the front sliding and the rear not is my tires. as the front are yokohama and the rear are kuhmo so they are diffrent.
thank you much for the replies and any other opnions are welcome.

 

like i said, you need a rear sway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citystreetsbimmer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also my thought on the front sliding and the rear not is my tires. as the front are yokohama and the rear are kuhmo so they are diffrent.
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, try swapping them front to rear and see if it makes a difference...

 

but what woulda rear sway bar have to do with the front losing traction?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citystreetsbimmer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but what woulda rear sway bar have to do with the front losing traction?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lolz. you have lots to learn my son.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by citystreetsbimmer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but what woulda rear sway bar have to do with the front losing traction?</TD></TR></TABLE>
It depends what you mean by traction.

To recap my previous post; Increasing rear roll stiffness increases weight transfer at the rear, i.e. when cornering more weight will transfer from the inside rear wheel to the outside rear wheel. Here's the tricky part, increasing rear roll stiffness also decreases weight transfer at the front, i.e. less weight will transfer from the IF wheel to the OF, despite nothing at all having been done to the front suspension.

In effect this is somewhat like, sort of, as if, kind of, you had increased the amount of rubber on the road at the front and reduced it at the rear (I do know the theory behind this affect but don't feel like going into it just now). The result is more lateral traction at the front of the car and less at the rear.

Not only is lateral traction increased, but since front weight transfer has been decreased the IF contact patch is less unloaded than it would be with lower rear roll stiffness, so the IF will be more resistant to spinning when power is applied. If the IF doesn't spin then you can get more power to the ground and accelerate out of corners harder and earlier.

 

well i think i understand but in any event iguess il buy a rear sway bar. its seems i have to buy a rear subframe support aswell when i do so. andy other mods i can get for the suspension?

 

A free fix would be to unbolt your front bar. You'd gain a bit of body roll, but you'd also gain weight transfer as well. Could take pressure out of your fronts and add pressure to your rears, that's free too.

If you have money to spend, go find yourself a stock 15mm rear bar. It should make your car feel nice and neutral. I know the VTEC Sols had 'em, dunno what else.

If you lowered your car with the coilovers, did you throw a camber kit in to correct it? If not, your geometry may be out of whack enough that you're not getting proper contact up front anymore.