I'm building a car due out shortly. It will be just a sohc -T for now, If all goes right. I wanted to know if any out there has a sohc-t setup for auto-xing, or any type of road course events. These are some events I'd like to attend once the car is finish.

If you dont mind post up some specs on ENGINE, TURBO, TRANS.??

how well it does??

What would you change?


here's what my engine setup will basically consist of ( if possible can you guys aide me in what class I might run in if I reach the honda challenge status, keep in mind this is a low budget build no big spending here just proven generic parts.):

Greddy 15g kit

D16z6 Head
OEM IM
OEM/b/k- series TB
Hand Port & polished, 3 angle
Titanium valves
" Springs
" retainers
Cam
adj. Cam gear

Block D16z6
9:0.1 slugs
BG

Trans
d16z6 ex dr
carbon synchros
sprung clutch stg 4
LSD
88-91 HF 3rd gear as my 4th gear.

 

you wouldn't be able to run any Honda Challenge classes with a turbo kit.
and with the titanium valves you wouldn't be legal to run in H1 even.
i'd scrap the ti valves. there is no need for them. especially with the 15g turbo.
you are going to max that turbo out easily. so no point in really reving any higher then stock redline. that turbo starts dying out before then. so all the money you spend to save some valvetrain mass with Ti valves is a waste. stick with stock valves, and put the money towards a better ball bearing turbo.

i built a car for my friend. he autox'ed it last a few times last year. he didn't run it at any SCCA events, but it got like 2nd or 3rd FTD at a few bmwcca events.

1992 civic hatch
pair Momo Start racing seats
i built the engine and fabbed turbo setup for him.
D16y8 block +.5mm
SRP pistons
tuner toys rods
ported head, stock valvetrain and cam.
pieces of greddy turbo kit.
15g turbo. greddy manifold. (turbo rotated around 180 degress from normal)
yonaka FMIC
custom intercooler piping to minimize tubing distances. (probably 5 ft from turbo to throttle body.
Hondata S300

believe it spikes 14psi then goes down to 10psi. need to get rid of the greddy downpipe elbow. you can see in the Dyno how it spikes. it reaches near max torque, but HP never reaches max cause the turbo can't hold the boost past a certain point. without the drop it should be up around 250whp.

200hp 220wtq. very large powerband. already 100wtq by 2000 rpm.
tuned be Jeff Evans




i'm building pretty much the same setup for my 1988 civic.
budget home built car.
D16a block (d16y8 in japan) 75mm bore
z6 head
eagle rods
srp z6 pistons
home ported head
about 9.1:1 compression
Hondata S300

GT28r turbo and backdoor intercooler.
home made turbo manifold.
2.5"-3" downpipe - 3" exhaust
should have a bit better response then the Greddy turbo.
looking to max it out hopefully like 280hp. (not for autox though, i'll run much lower boost. max boost for HPDE, time attack, etc)


Modified by hybridmoments at 4:17 PM 2/1/2008


Modified by hybridmoments at 4:19 PM 2/1/2008


Modified by hybridmoments at 4:21 PM 2/1/2008

 

If you wanted to get into racing with that motor you could always put it into NASA PT. I think they allow that as it assess point based on hp/lbs ratio.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridmoments &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you wouldn't be able to run any Honda Challenge classes with a turbo kit.
and with the titanium valves you wouldn't be legal to run in H1 even.
i'd scrap the ti valves. there is no need for them. especially with the 15g turbo.
you are going to max that turbo out easily. so no point in really reving any higher then stock redline. that turbo starts dying out before then. so all the money you spend to save some valvetrain mass with Ti valves is a waste. stick with stock valves, and put the money towards a better ball bearing turbo.

i built a car for my friend. he autox'ed it last a few times last year. he didn't run it at any SCCA events, but it got like 2nd or 3rd FTD at a few bmwcca events.

1992 civic hatch
pair Momo Start racing seats
i built the engine and fabbed turbo setup for him.
D16y8 block +.5mm
SRP pistons
tuner toys rods
ported head, stock valvetrain and cam.
pieces of greddy turbo kit.
15g turbo. greddy manifold. (turbo rotated around 180 degress from normal)
yonaka FMIC
custom intercooler piping to minimize tubing distances. (probably 5 ft from turbo to throttle body.
Hondata S300

believe it spikes 14psi then goes down to 12psi. need to get rid of the greddy downpipe elbow.
he put out like 210hp 230wtq. very large powerband.
tuned be Jeff Evans
it almost doesn't feel fast cause the powerband is so wide. not like a drag D series with a GT35r where you don't make power till 6000rpm.

i'm building pretty much the same setup for my 1988 civic.
budget home built car.
D16a block (d16y8 in japan) 75mm bore
z6 head
eagle rods
srp z6 pistons
home ported head
about 9.1:1 compression
Hondata S300

GT28r turbo and backdoor intercooler.
home made turbo manifold.
2.5"-3" downpipe - 3" exhaust
should have a bit better response then the Greddy turbo.
looking to max it out hopefully like 280hp. (not for autox though, i'll run much lower boost. max boost for HPDE, time attack, etc)

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Great heads up...I do plan to upgrade turbo size in the future as well as scrap the greddy elbow. valves too!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you wanted to get into racing with that motor you could always put it into NASA PT. I think they allow that as it assess point based on hp/lbs ratio.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm definitely going to look into.

 

I am also building a sohc-t setup based on a greddy kit and have been thinking about autocrossing soon. I'd be interested to see how your setup turns out. bump for updates

 

I am taking my turbo sohc to sears point this weekens for nasa hpde. I have done hpde before but this will be the first time with the turbo.

d16z6
eagle rods
vitara pistons
completely stock head
arp headstuds
o-ringed block
T3 60trim turbo at 18psi
stock trans
xtd stage 4 clutch

Car makes 270 to the wheels and full boost by 3400
Entire motor build and turbo kit fab was done by me

I wouldn't waste money on any head work just because it's not necessary. My car rolls third gear in a straight line on 205 azenis so i might actually turn the power down untill im on some r compounds. I would highly reccomend o ringing the block because sohc's have a tendancy to push coolent under long hard pulls and the o ring helps prevent it.





But first and formost you should just sighn up and do an autox or hpde or any event without tons of horsepower because u will be amazed how much u will learn even with 90 horsepower. And if your serious about racing u need to get a rulebook and class and build the car to suite. Good luck

 

thats a really clean car and setup..

good luck i was wonderin how my ls/vtec will do in the roadcourse here. its on 9psi. makes 324 to the wheels i will find out on saturday and it will be cold with stock brakes as well.

 

Looking at this picture i dont think that plastic Blow Off Valve is mounted correctly.
Im just gonna guess and say its a 95+ eclipse plastic Blow Off Valve which is connected on the wrong END.


Edo

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 55superbeetle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">



</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Ran all last season SCCA time Trial, PDX, and private track days with my turbo EF.

Setup:
D16 Z6
Posted block,
Rollerwaves 11.5:1
Endyn ported head
Stock cam
Ported and welded Y8 manifold
Custom turbo manifold, down pipe, intercooler, chargepiping etc
T3 50trim .48 AR 10psi
made 238hp at the wheels.

Stock Si, or ZC gearbox, depending on which one is not trashed at the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 55superbeetle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am taking my turbo sohc to sears point this weekens for nasa hpde. I have done hpde before but this will be the first time with the turbo.

d16z6
eagle rods
vitara pistons
completely stock head
arp headstuds
o-ringed block
T3 60trim turbo at 18psi
stock trans
xtd stage 4 clutch

Car makes 270 to the wheels and full boost by 3400
Entire motor build and turbo kit fab was done by me

I wouldn't waste money on any head work just because it's not necessary. My car rolls third gear in a straight line on 205 azenis so i might actually turn the power down untill im on some r compounds. I would highly reccomend o ringing the block because sohc's have a tendancy to push coolent under long hard pulls and

But first and formost you should just sighn up and do an autox or hpde or any event without tons of horsepower because u will be amazed how much u will learn even with 90 horsepower. And if your serious about racing u need to get a rulebook and class and build the car to suite. Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>


i definately plan to do some small races first. what do you guys feel is the biggest set backs w/ your turbo setups?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteener &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ran all last season SCCA time Trial, PDX, and private track days with my turbo EF.

Setup:
D16 Z6
Posted block,
Rollerwaves 11.5:1
Endyn ported head
Stock cam
Ported and welded Y8 manifold
Custom turbo manifold, down pipe, intercooler, chargepiping etc
T3 50trim .48 AR 10psi
made 238hp at the wheels.

Stock Si, or ZC gearbox, depending on which one is not trashed at the time. </TD></TR></TABLE>

your hi-comp boosted? have you been in a low-com ride w/ a similar setup? any noticiable diff. on a track&gt;? if yes!

 

D17A2
Bored .020 over stock sleeves
9:1 Wisecos
Crower rods
Stock head ports
3 angle VJ
Supertech black nitrided valves
Crower "Turbo" cam
Crower VS&R
HKS Log mani
GT28R
Custom IC
Custom IM
Oil Cooler
Koyo double thick radiator
Currently running a 2.25" exhaust, that's changing to a 3" DP stepped into a 2.5" (ground and control arm clearance)
tuned on Hondata Kpro
Car made 237/187 at 12psi
Tried that at the track, it was too much power for an open diff and I worked a manifold bolt loose, overspun the turbo and trashed it.
Second time, i managed to blow the head gasket (may have been from the overspinning it and possible overboost as a result the first time)

3rd time was the charm, ran 7 psi (185HP/153 TQ) got the car working and it survived a HPDE weekend in 100 degree heat. Gonna have it retuned (I think the timing is off in higher boost levels) then try to run it at 10psi on the track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdoMoto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looking at this picture i dont think that plastic Blow Off Valve is mounted correctly.
Im just gonna guess and say its a 95+ eclipse plastic Blow Off Valve which is connected on the wrong END.


Edo</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks like a Bosch VW-type valve to me... if thats the case, its correctly positioned.

 

Never driven a similar Honda with low compression and a turbo. I have driven a Suby with a GT35 and an automatic. It seemed slow and unresponsive, but I am guessing that is just that setup.

 

i don't like the greddy kit much. the way the piping was laid out on the kit my friend had, must have added an additional 6 feet of tubing. we wanted to keep it to a minimum, and save as much weight as possible.

if you can weld, or know someone that can. just piece together your own kit. have um spend 2 days helping you fab everything.

got around that by rotating the entire turbo 180 degrees. so compressor is on driver side. downpipe is a straight shot pretty much. using the crap greddy elbow. and a 2-2.5" reducer right from that into a 2.5" downpipe . and you have a straight shot down to the driver side of the intercooler (not the greddy intercooler from the kit)
then i made a little cold air setup for him since the compressor side of the turbo is only 10" from the driver frame rail. just went up and over, and then through the hole and into the fender area.

not sure if it's the best setup, but we mounted a Eclipse aluminium blow off valve directly to the driver side intercooler end tank. seems to work ok.
not sure if that hells or hurts on/off throttle response.

when i fab up a new downpipe for him and get rid of the greddy elbow, will see how much it improves. doubt he will get it dynoed again though.


Modified by hybridmoments at 9:45 AM 2/12/2008

 

When I built all my turbo parts, I put the compressor on the drivers side, came right off the turbo with a 3in radius 90 and straight down to another 90 and out the back for my down pipe. Plus I have the inlet filter for the turbo right in front of the grill so I built a shroud around it and it gets cold air all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybridmoments &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't like the greddy kit much. the way the piping was laid out on the kit my friend had, must have added an additional tubing.

if you can weld, or know someone that can. just piece together your own kit. have um spend 2 days helping you fab everything.

got around that by rotating the entire turbo 180 degrees. so compressor is on driver side. downpipe is a straight shot pretty much. using the crap greddy elbow. and a 2-2.5" reducer right from that into a 2.5" downpipe . and you have a straight shot down to the driver side of the intercooler (not the greddy intercooler from the kit)
then i made a little cold air setup for him since the compressor side of the turbo is only 10" from the driver frame rail. just went up and over, and then through the hole and into the fender area.

not sure if it's the best setup, but we mounted a Eclipse aluminium blow off valve directly to the driver side intercooler end tank. seems to work ok.
not sure if that hells or hurts on/off throttle response.

when i fab up a new downpipe for him and get rid of the greddy elbow, will see how much it improves. doubt he will get it dynoed again though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not to fond of the greddy also. When I get the supercharger, greddy kit is going out the back hatch! I'm gonna set it on the tailgate & hall so everything flys out on the st. Then do a custom turbo setup.

 

For the guys that have done some actual track time like an HPDE, are you running an oil cooler?

If so, how do have it mounted? Pics would be great.

 

No, but I would if I am planning on running anymore events with the car, but since I am going to build an H1 car my turbo car goes back to being a street car.

 

I had fun at the track day and my car ran about inbetween the fast cars and slow cars. was very limited by completely stock suspension and brakes though. Some of the turns i couldnt even give it throttle at all. I wanted to come and do it again on the 8th but doesnt look like ill make it out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pane93civhb &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had fun at the track day and my car ran about inbetween the fast cars and slow cars. was very limited by completely stock suspension and brakes though. Some of the turns i couldnt even give it throttle at all. I wanted to come and do it again on the 8th but doesnt look like ill make it out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't wait to get out there.