Brake upgrade: 94 Accord LX
Hello everyone,
It's been a while. I'm back to the accord scene. Finally got my 94 Accord LX (with H22 swap) up and running as my DD.
However, I ran into a lil issue. The brake system, it sucks big time. It feel very loose and I'd have to stomp it all the way. The pedal keeps sinking and sinking when braking, it doesn't feel safe.
I've tried flushing it with ATE Super Blue, still doesn't help much, only a little.
What can I do to improve the brake without spending a fortune? It's my DD, so I don't see the point for modding it much. Only making it reliable
Here's what I planned to do the the order of improve braking and feel.
1. Goodridge SS brake lines - See if pedal feels better.
2. Better Pads (if the OEM rotor measure good) if it still didn't bite good after changing the lines
3. Rear is drum - So I'll leave it alone
4. If rotor's almost I'll do the Rotor Over Hub Conversion:
* Those that did this before, please suggest. The following is something I've researched
* Dual-piston brake upgrade with rotor-over-hub conversion:
1. OEM Acura 98-99 2.3 CL front hubs
2. OEM Honda front calipers from 94-95 Legend GS Sedan
3. OEM Honda 23T brackets
4. rotors for 98-99 Acura 3.0 CL or 93-96 Prelude VTEC
5. pads - any options for the 94-95 Legend GS Sedan?
6. Optional 94-97 Accord front wheel bearings
* So rather than doing all the pressing, etc. Can I just get the 97-99 2.3CL spindle/knuckle for the Driver and passenger. Get new rotors (3.0 CL Rotor), 23T Brackets and Legend GS Calipers and bolt it on?
5. Rear Disc Conversion
* Is that really necessary? if so, what and where should I get? I'd like to get new stuffs if necessary. Getting used parts from Junk yard will only be more headaches (besides the arms, etc.)
Thanks a lot.
-Kevin
It's been a while. I'm back to the accord scene. Finally got my 94 Accord LX (with H22 swap) up and running as my DD.
However, I ran into a lil issue. The brake system, it sucks big time. It feel very loose and I'd have to stomp it all the way. The pedal keeps sinking and sinking when braking, it doesn't feel safe.
I've tried flushing it with ATE Super Blue, still doesn't help much, only a little.
What can I do to improve the brake without spending a fortune? It's my DD, so I don't see the point for modding it much. Only making it reliable
Here's what I planned to do the the order of improve braking and feel.
1. Goodridge SS brake lines - See if pedal feels better.
2. Better Pads (if the OEM rotor measure good) if it still didn't bite good after changing the lines
3. Rear is drum - So I'll leave it alone
4. If rotor's almost I'll do the Rotor Over Hub Conversion:
* Those that did this before, please suggest. The following is something I've researched
* Dual-piston brake upgrade with rotor-over-hub conversion:
1. OEM Acura 98-99 2.3 CL front hubs
2. OEM Honda front calipers from 94-95 Legend GS Sedan
3. OEM Honda 23T brackets
4. rotors for 98-99 Acura 3.0 CL or 93-96 Prelude VTEC
5. pads - any options for the 94-95 Legend GS Sedan?
6. Optional 94-97 Accord front wheel bearings
* So rather than doing all the pressing, etc. Can I just get the 97-99 2.3CL spindle/knuckle for the Driver and passenger. Get new rotors (3.0 CL Rotor), 23T Brackets and Legend GS Calipers and bolt it on?
5. Rear Disc Conversion
* Is that really necessary? if so, what and where should I get? I'd like to get new stuffs if necessary. Getting used parts from Junk yard will only be more headaches (besides the arms, etc.)
Thanks a lot.
-Kevin
Sinking???
Did you bleed the brakes correctly? It seems like air is trapped. How about your brake booster? All hoses are connected to it? Like no vacuum leaks? And also the resevoir is filled up right?
Did you bleed the brakes correctly? It seems like air is trapped. How about your brake booster? All hoses are connected to it? Like no vacuum leaks? And also the resevoir is filled up right?
I'm no expert but I've bled my G35's brake system before.
For the Accord, I've used almost 1L of the ATE Super Blue. And bled until there's no air bubbles coming out with the new fluid.
I don't see anything disconnected from the brake booster.
It's not sinking bad, just very slowly and gradually when I pressed on the pedal.
I have BBK on my G35 with SS line and the pedal stays exactly where I rested my foot. Also, I just tapped a little to apply the brake, don't have to stomp all the way to the floor like on the Accord
.
For the Accord, I've used almost 1L of the ATE Super Blue. And bled until there's no air bubbles coming out with the new fluid.
I don't see anything disconnected from the brake booster.
It's not sinking bad, just very slowly and gradually when I pressed on the pedal.
I have BBK on my G35 with SS line and the pedal stays exactly where I rested my foot. Also, I just tapped a little to apply the brake, don't have to stomp all the way to the floor like on the Accord
.
Thanks guys, I think I've found the issue. Couple searches around and it reminded me that the Master Cylinder may be the issue.
I had the same problem on my other accord couple years back. I'll see if replacing the MC helps.
Might as well do the lines when I'm at it.
I had the same problem on my other accord couple years back. I'll see if replacing the MC helps.
Might as well do the lines when I'm at it.
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For a sinking brake pedal:
If you're losing fluid, then you have a leak in one of the lines.
If you're not losing fluid, then the master cylinder internal seals are leaking. Replace the master cylinder with a new or remanufactured unit.
If you're losing fluid, then you have a leak in one of the lines.
If you're not losing fluid, then the master cylinder internal seals are leaking. Replace the master cylinder with a new or remanufactured unit.
Where is the fluid displaced to when the internal seals go bad? Into the reservoir? I have an extra MC to use, but am dreading bleeding the brakes...again!
Depends on which seals are leaking. Sometimes the fluid is displaced back into the reservoir (most common; no loss of fluid); sometimes it leaks out the rear of the master cylinder into the booster (less common; some loss of fluid). If brake fluid leaks into the booster, it can mess up the diaphragm, requiring the booster to be replaced.
i was just wondering if you replaced the brake lines yet? i had the problem about the master cylinder .. it works fine now. never had a problem. im wondering how i can make it better without doing that huge upgrade.
i was thinking of changing the brake lines.. bads and maybe better rotors..
i was thinking of changing the brake lines.. bads and maybe better rotors..
did it make any difference when putting the lines on? is it any stiffer when pressing the brake? better response?
i haven't done much with my brakes cuz they do work but when it gets hot .. it just isn't the same..
i figured out my master cylinder was messed up and i fixed that..
my dad just told me.. (after years or me complaining to him) that you can readjust the back drums to make them tighter and you will get a better brake pedal response.. does anyone know about this?
or should i just replace the lines? get better pads? maybe get better rotors?...
i dont want to do some crazy conversion.. no need for me..
i haven't done much with my brakes cuz they do work but when it gets hot .. it just isn't the same..
i figured out my master cylinder was messed up and i fixed that..
my dad just told me.. (after years or me complaining to him) that you can readjust the back drums to make them tighter and you will get a better brake pedal response.. does anyone know about this?
or should i just replace the lines? get better pads? maybe get better rotors?...
i dont want to do some crazy conversion.. no need for me..
did it make any difference when putting the lines on? is it any stiffer when pressing the brake? better response?
i haven't done much with my brakes cuz they do work but when it gets hot .. it just isn't the same..
i figured out my master cylinder was messed up and i fixed that..
my dad just told me.. (after years or me complaining to him) that you can readjust the back drums to make them tighter and you will get a better brake pedal response.. does anyone know about this?
or should i just replace the lines? get better pads? maybe get better rotors?...
i dont want to do some crazy conversion.. no need for me..
i haven't done much with my brakes cuz they do work but when it gets hot .. it just isn't the same..
i figured out my master cylinder was messed up and i fixed that..
my dad just told me.. (after years or me complaining to him) that you can readjust the back drums to make them tighter and you will get a better brake pedal response.. does anyone know about this?
or should i just replace the lines? get better pads? maybe get better rotors?...
i dont want to do some crazy conversion.. no need for me..
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