Update****Videos added on page 2 ****

Hi guys this is my way of offering you a glimpse at a pretty straight forward D motor build that can produce 300 WHP or even more pretty easily. This sort of power in a light CRX is a easy 12 second ride, actually Mine went 12.8s at 110 with only 258 WHP so with 300 you have deep 12s all day.
Any way here we go with the technical information, you will need to start with a good block, sleeves aren't needed at this level but it never hurts to over build
the head can be left bone stock but i would suggest having it gone over and any seals replaced if needed. You will need good pistons and rods if you plan on hitting 300 whp and running it for any period of time. i personally went with scat rods and SRP pistons. with all that done you will need to choose a turbo kit, mine is a cutom made one using a DSM big 16 g , custom pipes and a front mount IC, you can use many different set ups, but the turbo it self needs to be able to support the numbers you intend to run, don't expect a little 14b to make 300 + whp on a d16 as it simply wont. any way the last ingredient are some bigger injectors, 450 cc can hit 300 but will be about maxed out and last but not least is some sort of management and tuning, i went with hondata s300 but there are many many others out there.a good fuel pump is also good insurance but many people feel the stocker can handle 300 with no problems, add in a map sensor that can handle the PSI you want to run and thats it, wait i know your saying but i don't see any real trickery or magic done, and the answer is thats right a nice simple turbo set up on a healthy D16 with strong enough internals can make 300 whp all day long with every thing else like the intake ect ect pretty much stock. here are 2 dyno sheets from different configurations i have used on my car , both made just under 300 WHP, i am currently running just at 300 whp and in the spring i will be upgrading the turbo and injectors and shooting for 350 whp the car is very reliable and is my daily driver, i would suggest a decent clutch but nothing to radical unless you only drag race it, i am running a LSD 6 puck but i have used a ACT in the past and it held just fine. also here is a link to a video i made of the car as you can see it takes allot of feathering on street tires when you get on it and i still get 30+ MPG.
any way i hope this helps some of you realize your D motor can be made into something thats fun and fast . 1 last tip is i would suggest a management that offers antilag, this lets you spool up some boost off the line so you can rip out of the hole, it takes some playing with to find how much is just right, to much and you will just fry the slicks and actually loose some ET, i made that mistake last season and could only muster a best of 1.8 for a 60 ft. any way here are the dyno pics and the video link.
Link for video
first attempt at 300 whp



made some changes and tried again, didnt gain to much on the peak , but gained a ton down low and across the curve

I want to thanks Chris Whitfield and Jeff Evans for all their help in getting this baby into the 12s and soon to be 11s Chris is a great guy for any of you on the west coast, he took the time to help me tune over the phone and internet sometimes actually talking to me while i was at the track and trying to dial in his basemap. and Jeff is another great tuner for those on the east coast, he is the one who did my second tune securing me easy low 12s remember guys a good tuner can mean the difference between a fast and reliable car and a fast and unreliable one see yah all soon.

I know this thread doesn't have allot of specifics, but it wasn't meant to, its just a example of how us D users don't have to swap motors to make good power. hopefully i can inspire more people to keep the single cam alive


Modified by boosted91crx at 12:39 PM 1/29/2008


Modified by boosted91crx at 1:27 PM 4/12/2008


Modified by boosted91crx at 1:28 PM 4/12/2008

 

Tried and true recipe there, pretty similar to mine sans the internals

 

Awesome man, yeah its a tried and true recipe, just hoping to show some of the new guys that you don't need to swap out the old single cam to make power.

 

thats good info. but what about the cost of such a set up? can you break this down?

 

Thats a great question i was going to try and do this originally but there are so many ways you can reach the same goal using different parts, for example you may choose to use crome instead of hondata and that is a pretty big difference in cost. I built this over time and since i came from a muscle car back ground i had to relearn allot of things and i made mistakes along the way that cost me more then had i not made any mistakes. the bottom line is it dont cost much different then if you would try and gain power by doing a twin came swap, of course there are those who know people and get better deals then the average guy does, but for the majority boosting a D is not much more cost if any then swapping in a B series or other series for that matter.

 

nice man..

 

Good info and great video. I especially like the sleeper-ness of your rex. Looks stock but with Si wheels

 

Thanks man, i went for the sleeper look on purpose, the intercooler is even painted black so it looks like a AC condenser those Si rims are my winter rims, soon i will be putting konig heliums on it, black with polished lip or maybe bronze and 16 inch.

 

Nice. Very well done.

 

Good #'s.

Nice pull to 120 . Looks very quick.

You should step up the driving now and pull some real times. Low 12's leaves plenty of room for improvement with those power #'s.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. D-Series &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You should step up the driving now and pull some real times. Low 12's leaves plenty of room for improvement with those power #'s.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I love power from the D's... Nice numbers.

 

i agree it should run a tad faster, but i should mention i have yet to perfect the anitlag setting and tire pressure. this season i am going to toy with the settings and bead lock my slicks so i can go lower on the pressure. last season i just spun real bad all of first gear.

 

Hey guys a little update, The car has been freshly painted and some new rota slips added, and also a new cluster and some fresh seats. here are some pics, also i went to the track sunday, and like a man of my word here is the video that I promised streetwerkz i told him i would prove to him my car runs 12s, if you recall in my you tube video he posted "that **** doesnt run 12s bro. post up a timeslip." and i promised him i would show him it does, the thread we discussed this in got deleted so i will post it here in this one. any way like i was saying i went to the track sunday, it was slippery and the surface was cold so i spun all of first and second and i couldnt get a good 60 to save my life, my MPH was there but my et was suffering, any way heres some pics and a short video.







Modified by boosted91crx at 9:09 PM 3/31/2008


Modified by boosted91crx at 9:35 PM 3/31/2008


Modified by boosted91crx at 10:05 PM 3/31/2008

 

It is not that difficult if you have the right combination.. JFK78 makes 440+ and runs 10.80's in his DD... No worries


Modified by SOHCinWA at 9:16 PM 3/31/2008

 

did you buy the rotas with a polished lip, or did you do it??

 

i bought the slips in royal gunmetal thanks for the replys guys

 

This tread makes the most sense out of all the threads Ive ever read.

Have you thought about changing your crank out for a 94.4 mm 1.7 crank? Might want to think about that. That's what Im doing and I think I can make alot more torque and maybe whp. Theres a write up on how to do it in the Honda-Tuning magazine and on their website.

The setup would require (opinion) 135mm forged 1.5 rods and the d17a2 crank from 02-05. An NA d16a6 made 183 whp.

 

Hi, no i never even heard of that, please let me know how you make out with it thanks for looking in.

 

what gauge cluster is that?

 

nice setup bro..what kind of exhaust is that?

 

the cluster is from a UKDM crx , they are on ebay, and the exhaust is just 2.5 inch down pipe threw a flex joint and then straight 2.5 back to just before the rear suspension and then its a off the shelf greddy muffler kit from there back, its not that loud compared to a typical fart can.

 

A thread about making power/numbers in a clean unmolested car, not discussing paint colors, bumper poles, or installing bolt in cages in Daily Drivers.....

Dude I think you posted this in the wrong forum.

(kidding )

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublethink &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A thread about making power/numbers in a clean unmolested car, not discussing paint colors, bumper poles, or installing bolt in cages in Daily Drivers.....

Dude I think you posted this in the wrong forum.

(kidding )</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL.....but yeah, us old guys can do it up right.

 

great write-up. i am a firm believer in being able to build single cams. my best friend and i argue about this all the time. he just plain hates them and thinks they are worthless. another friend just got done building his single cam del sol so now im just waiting for my friend to finish building his and im hoping he gets walked by the single cam so it shuts him up once and for all! man, after reading this, its making me think about keeping my crx and going back to a single cam turbo again....hmmmm