my accord shakes back and forth at 60mph ONLY no matter what gear im in,

but when i bring it back up to 70-80 it's smooth

and when i bring it to 1-50 it's also smooth

just that 50-60 area,

any idea what it is?

the preivious owner put 18" wheels on them, and i don't have the key to take them off so there still on there

 

have you ever gotten an alinement since you have bought the car? what condition are your wheels in are bent in any sense?

 

mine just started to do the exact same thing but mine is from 60 - 65...i think i have a bent rim tho cause mine also thumps at slow speeds...but i would get it aligned and see if that helps...

 

I think balanced is the word you guys are looking for. Wheel alignment is to keep your wheels aligned with the car and the road. Tire/wheel balancing is what is done to make ensure your rims/tires are equally weighted to eliminate bounce or an out of round/oval effect.

Your going to have to get those rims off so find someone with a similar lug nut key. Sounds like your in need of a tire rotation and balance. If you find out that it is not your wheels then get your upper control arms checked out. They are known to start a shimmy type vibration in your steering wheel if they have gone bad.

 

I second the tire balancing. I put new wheels and tires on my car this summer. After 7,000 miles, I swapped the fronts for the rears. Immediately started a steering wheel shake from 60-65 mph. Took the car back to where I had the tires mounted and had them all rebalanced. The tech said they were not out enough to do what I described. Put them back on and vibration is gone.

 

ok thanks guys ill try to fab something up to get those lugs nuts off, maybe ill just tack a bolt to each lug and shoot the bolt head

 

use a socket set......thats what I did with my 94 when it did not have a tire iron.....

 

The affect is to do with a small imbalance coinciding at certain wheel rotational speeds with a harmoinc frequency in the suspension.

As the heavy side of the wheel rotates it attempts to 'throw' the wheel in the direction of the imbalance, but this is resisted both by the inertia of the mass of the non rotating unsprung mass (i.e. rotors, calipers, hubs, uprights, suspension arms, 'weight' of the springs and dampers etc), and by the damping affect of the dampers.

At a certain speed though, the frequency of the rotating imbalance will coincide with the frequency of the spring (in conjuntion with the 'weight' of the unsprung mass it's attached to), and the spring will start to oscillate strongly despite the damping affect of the damper. The wheel will now start 'bouncing up and down and cause a vibration.

This is despite the imbalance being small (if it was large then the vibration would occur over a wider speed range starting at a lower speed), because it's a feedback loop, i.e. each time the imbalance comes around it adds just a little more energy in to the spring oscillation untill the kinetic energy 'stored' in the oscillating spring becomes substantial enough to overcome the damping effect of the damper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnlear &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The affect is to do with a small imbalance coinciding at certain wheel rotational speeds with a harmoinc frequency in the suspension.

As the heavy side of the wheel rotates it attempts to 'throw' the wheel in the direction of the imbalance, but this is resisted both by the inertia of the mass of the non rotating unsprung mass (i.e. rotors, calipers, hubs, uprights, suspension arms, 'weight' of the springs and dampers etc), and by the damping affect of the dampers.

At a certain speed though, the frequency of the rotating imbalance will coincide with the frequency of the spring (in conjuntion with the 'weight' of the unsprung mass it's attached to), and the spring will start to oscillate strongly despite the damping affect of the damper. The wheel will now start 'bouncing up and down and cause a vibration.

This is despite the imbalance being small (if it was large then the vibration would occur over a wider speed range starting at a lower speed), because it's a feedback loop, i.e. each time the imbalance comes around it adds just a little more energy in to the spring oscillation untill the kinetic energy 'stored' in the oscillating spring becomes substantial enough to overcome the damping effect of the damper. </TD></TR></TABLE>


so my wheels is bent? and i cannot feel it at lower speeds becuase of the damper?

what is the easiest way to verify if my wheels is bent with the wheel off the car?

those wheels look expensive!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">use a socket set......thats what I did with my 94 when it did not have a tire iron.....</TD></TR></TABLE>

can you elaborate?

 

It akll has to due with math..... 360 degrees. 60 MPH. I don't really remember what an old guy told me at the firestone I used to work at. But you need to take it and get them rebalance. If u have a good shop do it they can do what u call static balance. Let us know the results. Also when they do the balance, go to the machine and watch the process.

 

I would try getting the tires balanced. Sounds like a balancing problem to me. Usually when you have have it on the tire balancer you can tell if the wheels are bent or not so have them check that out. Seems to me like that big of wheels with low profile tires bend and break very easily from the slightest bumps in the road.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sadam-insane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It akll has to due with math..... 360 degrees. 60 MPH. I don't really remember what an old guy told me at the firestone I used to work at. But you need to take it and get them rebalance. If u have a good shop do it they can do what u call static balance. Let us know the results. Also when they do the balance, go to the machine and watch the process. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i did it a couple times in highschool........... but if they weere unbalaneced in theory they should wobble at over 60mph too right?

i mean it's almost exactly ONLY at 55-60mph then it stops gfrom 62 (no ****) to 80

throwing me for a loop LOL

but this isnt the biggest problem with this car, i ve been redoing the interior harness for 2 weeks and im not evne DONE,l as soon as i pulled the ebay alarm which was a mess, my window popped off track,

my rear right door inner stopped opening (thing the rod just came off the hande :S)

then the FREAKIN radio (which harness/wirirng i didnt even touch went out)

i drive the thing 150+ miles a day too

 

Sounds like tire balancing issue. A lot of times it will do it only from 50-60 like that. That or bent wheels. My 18"s did it about that speed when they were slightly bent. Tell them to check them when balancing them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RS2 FAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did it a couple times in highschool........... but if they weere unbalaneced in theory they should wobble at over 60mph too right?

i mean it's almost exactly ONLY at 55-60mph then it stops gfrom 62 (no ****) to 80

</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't say anything about the wheel being bent. it's a balance issue. The vibration noticably comes in at a fairly specific wheel rpm (A) and disappears at a fairly specific wheel rpm (B) because the harmonic frequency of the imbalance starts being close to the harmonic frequency of the spring etc at A and then moves away from the harmonic frequency of the spring etc at B.

The imbalance still exists outside the wheel rpm range at which the vibration is actually noticable (between A and B), but outside this range of wheel rpm rotational speeds (below A and aboveB) the 'system' stops being a feedback loop. In this state the damper is strong enough to dampen the spring oscillation, or rather the spring stops oscillating.

 

alright thanks, ill go get the tires balanced this weekend.

too i can't get thise lugs off .

last tire shop would'nt do it............

 

Some shops have a special tool designed to remove them but I don't think they will be reuseable. Are they locking lugs or tuner lug nuts? I have heard of jamming a socket onto it and beating it on so it cuts into the locking lug this way you can usually get it off. Another method I've heard of is welding another nut to the lug nut then using that to take it off.

 

My 90 accord has the same problem, 2 of my tires were out of round, but that wasn't the problem, my front shocks were shot, replaced them, still having the same vibration at that speed. So, I jacked the front end up and took it for a "spin" if you'll excuse the pun, the noises I heard and the way the cv joints were clunking around, after 60mph the ambient engine and outside noise really masks the noises mine was making, and I'm fairly sure at this point that the cv joints are to blame, I dont have any more money I can spend at this point, so I couldnt tell you if it will fix the problem or not, but id have someone check out those bearings, and I dont mean test drive it and try to bullshit you into parts, but someone who knows whats up really tests it out. A good way to get mechanic shops to do that is to tell them that they can go ahead with whatever repair they think will fix it, but if the problem isnt fixed, you want your old parts back on the car and you wont pay unless the problem is fixed. If you cant figure it out. IDK. But goodluck, im in the same boat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryancachilli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> my front shocks were shot, replaced them, still having the same vibration at that speed. So, I jacked the front end up and took it for a "spin" if you'll excuse the pun, the noises I heard and the way the cv joints were clunking around, after 60mph the ambient engine and outside noise really masks the noises mine was making, and I'm fairly sure at this point that the cv joints are to blame, </TD></TR></TABLE>

The CV joints probably weren't the culprit for the "clunking around" (though they could be if very worn). In your drive train (gearbox, differential, axle splines, CV joints) there are a number of clearances betwen the rotating parts, some very slight (such as splines and CV joints), and some more significant (lash between the gears in the box and differential).

To feel just how much these clearances can add up cumulatively, jack up one wheel and put the box in a gear, then attempt to rotate the jacked wheel by hand. The wheel will move through a significant range of rotation as all the clearances are 'taken up' one way then the other.

When driving these clearances are under some loading most of the time from force passing from the engine to the wheels, or from the wheels to the engine, and because of this the clearances are 'taken up' most of the time, and the drivetrain will behave 'smoothly'. You can often feel the clearances 'take up' when backing off a light throttle.

When you have both front wheels jacked up and run the engine in gear up to 'speed', once at that speed and holding it constant then the gears etc are not under much load at all (other than from slight friction in seals and bearings). The result is likely to be the clearances rattling back and forth and thus 'clunking around'. This might be made worse by any wheel imbalance.

 

ya im going to just tack a bolt to the center of the locking nut area then blast it off real quick. ther is no real clearance all the way around the nut...............damn school! is takeing up all my time!

i don't have the tool, but the dealer i used to work at had one for it........too bad they're closed..........