Camber kit question
I've heard of Blox, but no personal experience, but judging by their prices and comparing parts (say to Skunk2), they're mediocre/average.
Example:
Blox LCA's use rubber bushings, Skunk2's use polyurethane...Blox costs ~$100, Skunk2 costs ~$175.
I have Skunk2 front and rear camber kits, probably overkill, but I like the peace of mind, especially when it comes to suspension.
Example:
Blox LCA's use rubber bushings, Skunk2's use polyurethane...Blox costs ~$100, Skunk2 costs ~$175.
I have Skunk2 front and rear camber kits, probably overkill, but I like the peace of mind, especially when it comes to suspension.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DLjunky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not trying to Hi-jack the thread or anything but I have the 96-00 civic Skunk 2 front camber kit, will they fit my 92 hatch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes the should.
TO THE OP: how dropped is your car?? camber kits typically arent needed unless you are dropped over 2.25 inches.
yes the should.
TO THE OP: how dropped is your car?? camber kits typically arent needed unless you are dropped over 2.25 inches.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egSLEEPER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes the should.
TO THE OP: how dropped is your car?? camber kits typically arent needed unless you are dropped over 2.25 inches.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Camber kits are also used for adding camber, not soley for fixing camber issues on a "slammed" car
.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DLjunky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not trying to Hi-jack the thread or anything but I have the 96-00 civic Skunk 2 front camber kit, will they fit my 92 hatch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no it wont fit the uca's are different between 96-00 civics and the 92-95/94-01 civics/integras.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard of Blox, but no personal experience, but judging by their prices and comparing parts (say to Skunk2), they're mediocre/average.
Example:
Blox LCA's use rubber bushings, Skunk2's use polyurethane...Blox costs ~$100, Skunk2 costs ~$175.
I have Skunk2 front and rear camber kits, probably overkill, but I like the peace of mind, especially when it comes to suspension.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would hardly call skunk 2 overkill
yes the should.
TO THE OP: how dropped is your car?? camber kits typically arent needed unless you are dropped over 2.25 inches.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Camber kits are also used for adding camber, not soley for fixing camber issues on a "slammed" car
.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DLjunky »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not trying to Hi-jack the thread or anything but I have the 96-00 civic Skunk 2 front camber kit, will they fit my 92 hatch?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no it wont fit the uca's are different between 96-00 civics and the 92-95/94-01 civics/integras.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JKov240 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've heard of Blox, but no personal experience, but judging by their prices and comparing parts (say to Skunk2), they're mediocre/average.
Example:
Blox LCA's use rubber bushings, Skunk2's use polyurethane...Blox costs ~$100, Skunk2 costs ~$175.
I have Skunk2 front and rear camber kits, probably overkill, but I like the peace of mind, especially when it comes to suspension.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would hardly call skunk 2 overkill
A good alignment at les schwab sould be able to get the camber pretty close to normal. my car is dropped 2.5 inches and it has no camber kit nor do i have bad negative camber. (.4 front and .3 rear)
Camber kits are more hassle than anything. They aren't needed.
I had my alignment done, they set the toe to spec and I have had no problems with tire wear.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egSLEEPER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good alignment at les schwab sould be able to get the camber pretty close to normal. my car is dropped 2.5 inches and it has no camber kit nor do i have bad negative camber. (.4 front and .3 rear)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Les Shwab in your area must be better. Bad experiences, and high prices every time I've been in the past...
I had my alignment done, they set the toe to spec and I have had no problems with tire wear.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egSLEEPER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good alignment at les schwab sould be able to get the camber pretty close to normal. my car is dropped 2.5 inches and it has no camber kit nor do i have bad negative camber. (.4 front and .3 rear)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Les Shwab in your area must be better. Bad experiences, and high prices every time I've been in the past...
Go with omni power!! Just got mine for $150 free shipping great product and if you know how to use your camber kit it is a great thing to have. not only for fixing camber but like stated above for adding camber. for the rear I just used the washer method works fine for me. Jsut make sure to get hardened bolts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chairwitharmrests »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would hardly call skunk 2 overkill
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What would be overkill then?
I'm looking at it from a "daily driver that isn't dropped too-too much" point of view.
</TD></TR></TABLE>What would be overkill then?
I'm looking at it from a "daily driver that isn't dropped too-too much" point of view.
1993 Civic?
I'd buy the Skunk 2 PRO SERIES kits. They utilize a bracing plate where the 4 allen bolts tighten. Just look to make sure that you cannot see the allen bolts from the top view of the arm, like this:

The older generation kits use an inferior, non braced sliding balljoint design and are very easy to bend or damage if they ever come loose - stay away from these - note the topside of the arms have the allen bolts on top:

As far as the rear kits, pictured above, DON'T buy them. They are a complete waste of money. Any alignment shop that knows how to align these cars can correct the rear camber with some alignment shims, and if necessary, longer bolts that secure the upper control arm to the chassis.
You place the appropriate thickness shims in between the upper control arm and the chassis to move the top half of the wheel outwards, thus correcting camber. Ignorant people might cll it "ghetto" but I mself have used this technique for years on my personal vehicle and hundreds of customers' cars. I auto-X'd my car for years with zero issues, ever.
As far as front camber goes I love the upper control arm type kits, such as he Skunk2 Pro Series kit because it allows adjustability. This means that if you ever change your ride height the camber will be very easy to adjust, or if you'e like me and had an auto-X event you could pull the front kits INWARD and intentionally achieve -3 or so negative camber, which actually helps handling a lot on auto-X/road race courses.
Here is the last very importan thing to remeber about camber kits:
A 4-WHEEL ALIGNMENT WITH TOE ADJUSTMENT IS ABSOLUTELY A MUST WHEN CHANGING CAMBER ANY TIME!!!
Toe kills tires far worse than camber - period. This means that you can actually make your car drive worse, and kill tires much worse by simply adding a camber kit and turning it out to get less negative camber, and not fixing the toe at the same time.
When you add positive camber, even a little, it toes the front wheels outward, away from each other at a greater rate. This means that if you add +2 degrees of front camber you may also be adding +2 or worse degrees of toe out, which will make the car highly unstable and kill tires far worse than a car with -4 degrees o camber with zero toe.
I'd buy the Skunk 2 PRO SERIES kits. They utilize a bracing plate where the 4 allen bolts tighten. Just look to make sure that you cannot see the allen bolts from the top view of the arm, like this:

The older generation kits use an inferior, non braced sliding balljoint design and are very easy to bend or damage if they ever come loose - stay away from these - note the topside of the arms have the allen bolts on top:

As far as the rear kits, pictured above, DON'T buy them. They are a complete waste of money. Any alignment shop that knows how to align these cars can correct the rear camber with some alignment shims, and if necessary, longer bolts that secure the upper control arm to the chassis.
You place the appropriate thickness shims in between the upper control arm and the chassis to move the top half of the wheel outwards, thus correcting camber. Ignorant people might cll it "ghetto" but I mself have used this technique for years on my personal vehicle and hundreds of customers' cars. I auto-X'd my car for years with zero issues, ever.
As far as front camber goes I love the upper control arm type kits, such as he Skunk2 Pro Series kit because it allows adjustability. This means that if you ever change your ride height the camber will be very easy to adjust, or if you'e like me and had an auto-X event you could pull the front kits INWARD and intentionally achieve -3 or so negative camber, which actually helps handling a lot on auto-X/road race courses.
Here is the last very importan thing to remeber about camber kits:
A 4-WHEEL ALIGNMENT WITH TOE ADJUSTMENT IS ABSOLUTELY A MUST WHEN CHANGING CAMBER ANY TIME!!!
Toe kills tires far worse than camber - period. This means that you can actually make your car drive worse, and kill tires much worse by simply adding a camber kit and turning it out to get less negative camber, and not fixing the toe at the same time.
When you add positive camber, even a little, it toes the front wheels outward, away from each other at a greater rate. This means that if you add +2 degrees of front camber you may also be adding +2 or worse degrees of toe out, which will make the car highly unstable and kill tires far worse than a car with -4 degrees o camber with zero toe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egSLEEPER »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A good alignment at les schwab sould be able to get the camber pretty close to normal. my car is dropped 2.5 inches and it has no camber kit nor do i have bad negative camber. (.4 front and .3 rear)</TD></TR></TABLE>
an alignment at any shop doesnt mess with camber on a car with no alignment kit unless they use shims aka washers to correct the camber, which can only be adjusted in the rear and not the front for civics.
an alignment with no adjustable camber kit only adjusts the toe to make the sure the wheels are rolling straight | | with the road so they are are not pointed in / \ or pointed out \ / so they wear more evenly.
an alignment at any shop doesnt mess with camber on a car with no alignment kit unless they use shims aka washers to correct the camber, which can only be adjusted in the rear and not the front for civics.
an alignment with no adjustable camber kit only adjusts the toe to make the sure the wheels are rolling straight | | with the road so they are are not pointed in / \ or pointed out \ / so they wear more evenly.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
willymac22
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
11
Dec 5, 2003 10:18 AM







