Dynapack Dyno results...=o/
ok well i took my car to get it tuned. it was my first time and i was a little nervous. The results were a little confusing to say the least. here are my mods.
-2001 ITR motor
-Greddy 4-2-1 Header
-short ram intake
-HKS Hyper exhaust
-Skunk2 cam gears
-VAFC
im running a p28 mugen chipped ecu.
i dont have a scanner so i will just post up the numbers.
This the first run....
Torque
LBFT- 88.1
MPH- 70
RPM- 6355
Power
HP- 112.9
MPH- 80
RPM- 7242
Ratio- 6.400
TCF- 1.00
The best run, after advancing the timing on the cam gears and on distributor and whatever else he did...
Torque
LBFT- 104.1
MPH- 70
RPM- 6343
POWER
HP- 129
MPH- 79
RPM- 7186
so i was sitting there looking confused
..and i asked him. "so where should an ITR be in hp on this type of dyno?" he said "around 130. so your pretty good". i was shocked to see the low numbers. is this common on Dynapacks? im located in Denver which is a lot higher in altitude but i dont know if it would be the reason why. i tryed to search on the site about dynapacks and a guy with an ITR a couple years ago said he dynoed at 135. i was just interested in your guys's input.
Modified by BlueStar at 8:44 PM 1/27/2008
-2001 ITR motor
-Greddy 4-2-1 Header
-short ram intake
-HKS Hyper exhaust
-Skunk2 cam gears
-VAFC
im running a p28 mugen chipped ecu.
i dont have a scanner so i will just post up the numbers.
This the first run....
Torque
LBFT- 88.1
MPH- 70
RPM- 6355
Power
HP- 112.9
MPH- 80
RPM- 7242
Ratio- 6.400
TCF- 1.00
The best run, after advancing the timing on the cam gears and on distributor and whatever else he did...
Torque
LBFT- 104.1
MPH- 70
RPM- 6343
POWER
HP- 129
MPH- 79
RPM- 7186
so i was sitting there looking confused
..and i asked him. "so where should an ITR be in hp on this type of dyno?" he said "around 130. so your pretty good". i was shocked to see the low numbers. is this common on Dynapacks? im located in Denver which is a lot higher in altitude but i dont know if it would be the reason why. i tryed to search on the site about dynapacks and a guy with an ITR a couple years ago said he dynoed at 135. i was just interested in your guys's input.
Modified by BlueStar at 8:44 PM 1/27/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueStar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im running a mugen p28 ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I didn't know "Mugen" made a P28 type ECU for an ITR.
I didn't know "Mugen" made a P28 type ECU for an ITR.
I'm assuming you have a "mugen chip" you purchased from someone in your p28.
Not to be a jerk, but are you positive your turner knows his stuff?
Not to be a jerk, but are you positive your turner knows his stuff?
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Could the ecu it self be the problem?? I was reffered to this shop by a lot of people. they said they were really good. i just dont know why the numbers are soo low. could it be that he was using a different program or something? cause thats what he said type rs usually run..
my dyna-pack results were also low. after i posted my thread i was concerned that something was wrong.
i called my tuner and he assured me that the dynapack reads much lower that most dynos. and that my car was just right for the mods i had done. i dont have a scanner but my car was at 155hp and 120tq
personally i dont think much of dyno numbers, just think of the dyno as a tuning tool
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2203431
the oil on the back of the car is about 6 months of buildup, its winter why bother.
i called my tuner and he assured me that the dynapack reads much lower that most dynos. and that my car was just right for the mods i had done. i dont have a scanner but my car was at 155hp and 120tq
personally i dont think much of dyno numbers, just think of the dyno as a tuning tool

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2203431
the oil on the back of the car is about 6 months of buildup, its winter why bother.
i dont know if this would help but, from V6performance.net:
Notes about Dynoing in general
The J30A1 engine's SAE net rated power ratings are 200HP @ 5500rpm and 195 lb-ft @ 4700rpm. However, a chassis dynamometer that consumers have access to is MUCH different than the crank engine dynos that manufacturers test the engine alone on. Whereas a crank engine dyno measures engine power directly at the crankshaft output, a chassis dyno measures it at the wheels. Between the engine and the contact patch of the tires there are drivetrain components such as the transmission, torque converter, differential, shafts and axles, and the wheel masses. These components are not "lossless" and take some of the engine's energy - the torque converter in particular. The other major difference is that a crank engine dyno is done with the engine at a steady RPM (i.e. a brake dyno). Chassis dynos are usually the passive rolling load type - meaning the engine is at full throttle while accelerating a large circular drum instead of remaining at a steady RPM. In this case, inertial considerations come into play. The engine does not just spin up freely to redline. Some of the power that the engine generates is used to accelerate the engine itself. The same goes for the transmission, differential, and in particular the wheels. Finally, whatever engine power is left after paying for the inertial costs to spin up all of these components and other drivetrain inefficiencies (torque converter) is what makes it to the tire's contact patch. This is what the dyno reports, and this is what actually accelerates you.
Net result: On the industry standard Dynojet 248C chassis dynamometer, a stock J30A1 Accord will typically see about 155 whp (wheel horsepower) and 145 wtq (wheel torque) versus the crank ratings of 200hp and 195tq. Automatics on this type of dyno will generally see a "loss" of about 22-23% and this is appoximately in line with those numbers. Manual transmissions are usually about 60 pounds lighter than an automatic and also do not have a power sapping torque converter and therefore generally dyno about 5-10% higher than an automatic with the same engine and get much more power to the ground to accelerate you. This is why auto to manual conversions are popular (but difficult) on a lot of cars.
Important Note: You CANNOT directly compare the results from one type of dyno machine to another since the different types read differently. Another popular type of dyno is the Dynapack. This characteristically reads about 6-7% higher than a Dynojet 248C. Therefore, if you are trying to compare Dynapack results to a Dynojet you are comparing apples to oranges. In other words, they are not really comparable. If your friend dynos at 170 whp on a Dynojet and you dyno at 180 whp but on a Dynapack, that does not mean you have 10 whp more than your friend. It simply means that the type of dyno you ran on characteristically reads higher than the Dynojet by about that amount (at these power levels) and that the performance differences between the two cars will be negligible. Even different dynos of the same type can read slightly higher or lower than another. Therefore, when dynoing modifications try to always dyno on the same exact machine to get the most accurate and consistent results.
Notes about Dynoing in general
The J30A1 engine's SAE net rated power ratings are 200HP @ 5500rpm and 195 lb-ft @ 4700rpm. However, a chassis dynamometer that consumers have access to is MUCH different than the crank engine dynos that manufacturers test the engine alone on. Whereas a crank engine dyno measures engine power directly at the crankshaft output, a chassis dyno measures it at the wheels. Between the engine and the contact patch of the tires there are drivetrain components such as the transmission, torque converter, differential, shafts and axles, and the wheel masses. These components are not "lossless" and take some of the engine's energy - the torque converter in particular. The other major difference is that a crank engine dyno is done with the engine at a steady RPM (i.e. a brake dyno). Chassis dynos are usually the passive rolling load type - meaning the engine is at full throttle while accelerating a large circular drum instead of remaining at a steady RPM. In this case, inertial considerations come into play. The engine does not just spin up freely to redline. Some of the power that the engine generates is used to accelerate the engine itself. The same goes for the transmission, differential, and in particular the wheels. Finally, whatever engine power is left after paying for the inertial costs to spin up all of these components and other drivetrain inefficiencies (torque converter) is what makes it to the tire's contact patch. This is what the dyno reports, and this is what actually accelerates you.
Net result: On the industry standard Dynojet 248C chassis dynamometer, a stock J30A1 Accord will typically see about 155 whp (wheel horsepower) and 145 wtq (wheel torque) versus the crank ratings of 200hp and 195tq. Automatics on this type of dyno will generally see a "loss" of about 22-23% and this is appoximately in line with those numbers. Manual transmissions are usually about 60 pounds lighter than an automatic and also do not have a power sapping torque converter and therefore generally dyno about 5-10% higher than an automatic with the same engine and get much more power to the ground to accelerate you. This is why auto to manual conversions are popular (but difficult) on a lot of cars.
Important Note: You CANNOT directly compare the results from one type of dyno machine to another since the different types read differently. Another popular type of dyno is the Dynapack. This characteristically reads about 6-7% higher than a Dynojet 248C. Therefore, if you are trying to compare Dynapack results to a Dynojet you are comparing apples to oranges. In other words, they are not really comparable. If your friend dynos at 170 whp on a Dynojet and you dyno at 180 whp but on a Dynapack, that does not mean you have 10 whp more than your friend. It simply means that the type of dyno you ran on characteristically reads higher than the Dynojet by about that amount (at these power levels) and that the performance differences between the two cars will be negligible. Even different dynos of the same type can read slightly higher or lower than another. Therefore, when dynoing modifications try to always dyno on the same exact machine to get the most accurate and consistent results.
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