95 civic ex, car just started doing this a few days after I relocated my battery to my trunk. Put the key into the ignition, cel comes on hear fuel pump prime then cel goes off then cars good to go. Recently tho it hasn't primed everytime, I put the key in the ignition position two, cel comes on and stays on but the fuel pump doesn't prime. I have to wait more then 5 secs for the fuel pump to start priming. If I try to start the car with the cel on it wont start. Does this especially in the morning after the car has sat over night. What should I check first?


Modified by ejoner at 6:35 PM 1/27/2008

 

try changing the relay, it should be 40 bucks or less at the honda dealer. i had the same problem on my 91 civic, but it would just crank and not start. i wouls have to wait like 10 minutes with the key in the on position and then i would crank it and it would start. this also happened after leaving the car sit over night and it was cold out also.

 

I would but I don't want to buy something that wont fix my problem. And I'm pretty sure its not the relay, because its not like it doesn't work it just takes it longer then usual.

 

Bad ground maybe? Didn't do it until you relocated batt, be the first thing I'd look at. Also I would try the main relay. Not sure if they're is a test for it or not. I've always had some laying around so I just replace and try it. I had a 92 cx, the main relay was messed up and it sounded just about the same as problem you're having. I have one if you need. $15 shipped.

 

Thought about the ground but I made sure its a good connection and even added another cable from the battery to the frame. I was also thinking if it was the ground why would it do it about 10secs after the key has been on. Its as if the relay takes time to warm up then finally clicks, once its warmed up it works fine and when it sits I guess it gets cold and needs to warm up again. Might sound stupid but who knows.

 

Bump, I really need to get this sorted out.

 

Assuming a 24-foot round trip, the voltage from a fully charged (12.6v) battery will drop as follows:

Cable Gauge Voltage Drop @ 400 AMPS Weight Of Cable Approx. Initial Voltage at Starter
00 .79 9.9 11.6
0 .98 7.8 11.4
1 1.24 6.2 11.2
2 1.56 4.9 10.8

in order words, you got voltage drop buddy..

think about it, the longer the cable the more resistance.

next time do your re search before you pull something like this.


and anyways theres no reason to do this unless your a "drag track *****"


Modified by b16a-ej2 at 12:54 PM 1/26/2008

 

But theres a lot of people with relocated battery's I doubt they have this problem. I can crank the car fine as soon as I jump in its just that the fuel pump wont prime instantly.

 

Bump, someone gotta know what the deal is.

 

Hello all! New to the forum and new 1995 civic owner. I'm having the same problem but I haven't moved my battery and sometimes after car has sat overnight it will take up to 2 minutes with the key in the on position for the main relay to click and fuel pump come on. Then it will start like normal. If you let it run for a minute or two, shut it off, it will click relay and start right away. The longer it sits the longer before relay picks up. Hadn't checked voltage from ignition switch to relay yet. What kind of voltage should I have from the switch to the relay? Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16a-ej2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Assuming a 24-foot round trip, the voltage from a fully charged (12.6v) battery will drop as follows:

Cable Gauge Voltage Drop @ 400 AMPS Weight Of Cable Approx. Initial Voltage at Starter
00 .79 9.9 11.6
0 .98 7.8 11.4
1 1.24 6.2 11.2
2 1.56 4.9 10.8

in order words, you got voltage drop buddy..

think about it, the longer the cable the more resistance.

next time do your research before you pull something like this.


and anyways theres no reason to do this unless your a "drag track *****"


Modified by b16a-ej2 at 12:54 PM 1/26/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

Assuming he is grounding using something around 4-guage wire, there should be no problem with the quoted voltage drop. Once you've ground into the body, there are practically infinite current paths, so a "24-foot" path at the quoted gauges is pretty extreme. Also, there is a reason beyond being a "drag track *****": security. Most thieves will pop the hood and cut the battery to kill an alarm. If the battery is no longer under the hood - guess what: the piezo's can blow their ear drums while they try to steal your car.

Not being an *** to someone trying to keep their car safe FTW


To the OP: What guage power wire are you running to the main relay? Hopefully you have it fused at BOTH ends




Modified by VTDr0p0ut at 5:20 PM 3/17/2008

 

that def sounds like a main relay prob. they go bad on a lot of people especially with a change in cold to hot weather. its annoying but is an up and coming common problem with our older cars. many people may have the same sourcing problem but may experience a lil different syptoms. when mine went out a while back, it just wouldnt start. did after a while but periodically would shut off on the road. the main relay controls supply power to the pump. change it out and see if it works since they're not expensive

 

I'm sorry. I forgot to mention, I bought a brand new relay from Honda, and it does the same thing.

 

I have the same problem did you fix the problem

 

that guy above said he had an extra main relay for 15 shipped... its cheap, and even if it doesnt work you know that its not that...