Piston debate. Please add comments.
I need to do my rings so I might as well bump up the CR a little.
I am leaning more towards JDM ITR because they are balanced. (nice safe increase)
If I were cheap I could go with the 99 Si pistons...(more CR than JDM ITR 1/2 the price)
Or should I go all out and get CTR pistons. (the most increase in CR same price as JDM ITR)
I will also be installing a FPR and the Mugen head gasket.
I know EP is more than 200 with JDM ITR pistons (and not much else).. so I would like to be real close to 200 (Stock intake manifold and cams)
I am leaning more towards JDM ITR because they are balanced. (nice safe increase)
If I were cheap I could go with the 99 Si pistons...(more CR than JDM ITR 1/2 the price)
Or should I go all out and get CTR pistons. (the most increase in CR same price as JDM ITR)
I will also be installing a FPR and the Mugen head gasket.
I know EP is more than 200 with JDM ITR pistons (and not much else).. so I would like to be real close to 200 (Stock intake manifold and cams)
According to one of Esteban's previous posts, these are his mods:
"ok..im gonna try and remember every detail of mt engine...
jdm itr pistons
mugen headgasket
mugen outer springs( )
portflow inner springs
crower ti retainers
toda cam gears
spoon t-body
mugen oil pan
mugen cai
mugen header
spoon cat-jack
mugen twin-loop
b&m fuel riser
mugen ecu
apexi vafc
other contributing items:
vp 103
lightwieght tires and wheels (mf10's and hoosier r3s03)
lightwieght flywheel (jun)
lightwieght clutch (mugen)
lightwieght rotors (mugen)
im sure these last items can be argued over...but i believe they all helped because the engine still has to accelerate them..
oh yeah...thanks ED....
no p/s or a/c"
I don't think you are going to see 200 whp with just the FPR, headgasket, and pistons... You last dynoed at ~175, so 190 whp is a realistic goal depending on which pistons you choose. I say CTR pistons since the car isn't street driven.
"ok..im gonna try and remember every detail of mt engine...
jdm itr pistons
mugen headgasket
mugen outer springs( )
portflow inner springs
crower ti retainers
toda cam gears
spoon t-body
mugen oil pan
mugen cai
mugen header
spoon cat-jack
mugen twin-loop
b&m fuel riser
mugen ecu
apexi vafc
other contributing items:
vp 103
lightwieght tires and wheels (mf10's and hoosier r3s03)
lightwieght flywheel (jun)
lightwieght clutch (mugen)
lightwieght rotors (mugen)
im sure these last items can be argued over...but i believe they all helped because the engine still has to accelerate them..
oh yeah...thanks ED....
no p/s or a/c"
I don't think you are going to see 200 whp with just the FPR, headgasket, and pistons... You last dynoed at ~175, so 190 whp is a realistic goal depending on which pistons you choose. I say CTR pistons since the car isn't street driven.
mugen twin-loop
lightwieght tires and wheels (mf10's and hoosier r3s03)
lightwieght tires and wheels (mf10's and hoosier r3s03)
Jugen Exhaust
(JUN Canister on Straight Piping, Minor bends, under axle)&
A038R's Super Soft Compound
Latest is
Jugen Exhaust
(JUN Canister on Straight Piping, Minor bends, under axle)
&
A038R's Super Soft Compound
Jugen Exhaust
(JUN Canister on Straight Piping, Minor bends, under axle)&
A038R's Super Soft Compound
Yea.. CTR would yield the most gain, but also possibly be the least reliable.
I dont know if there is a middle ground..
[EDIT- I cant fawking believe that ricer thread is still at the top..]
I dont know if there is a middle ground..
[EDIT- I cant fawking believe that ricer thread is still at the top..]
For a track only car that is put together well and in good working order, I don't think that the CTR pistons will be any less reliable than the other options... So maybe the motor will last 100k miles instead of 125k miles...do you know how long it's going to take you to get that many miles when you only drive your car at track events??
Trending Topics
what's your price range? I've had real good luck with the endyn high compression pistons in 81.5mm bore. I've built a few motors with the endyns and one with the ctrs....the setups were different on all the motors so its hard to compare, but the ones with the endyns always made killer numbers especially in torque.
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Its a line of Marketing BS to say:
"Balanced Pistons"
You can pay a machine shop to balance whatever you want...
So you get pistons that are balanced...are the rods balanced too? Well, then whats the point of the pistons being balanced when they are attached to an unbalanced part?
Get the picture?
I am saying buy whatever compression you want, and balance it after.
I like aftermarket pistons personally. They take more abuse, have WAY better ring packages available to them, and are lighter so they make more power.
In addition to that, SOME have deeper valve reliefs for larger cams and more tuning...
I hope I helped.
Jeff
"Balanced Pistons"
You can pay a machine shop to balance whatever you want...
So you get pistons that are balanced...are the rods balanced too? Well, then whats the point of the pistons being balanced when they are attached to an unbalanced part?
Get the picture?
I am saying buy whatever compression you want, and balance it after.
I like aftermarket pistons personally. They take more abuse, have WAY better ring packages available to them, and are lighter so they make more power.
In addition to that, SOME have deeper valve reliefs for larger cams and more tuning...
I hope I helped.
Jeff
As for price range?? I am looking at no more than $300... I have no idea how much aftermarket pistons cost.. or who makes the best...
I am just trying to keep it simple
"I am not going to open up the motor" was how I always thought because the car is already fast enough for me..
BUT, since I must now do the rings because the oil rings went bad, the temptation is too great to upgrade.
But yea.. balancing.. again, I want to keep it simple.
I am just trying to keep it simple
"I am not going to open up the motor" was how I always thought because the car is already fast enough for me..
BUT, since I must now do the rings because the oil rings went bad, the temptation is too great to upgrade.
But yea.. balancing.. again, I want to keep it simple.
PR3 v. P30 v. PCT is more or less a compression choice.
PR3 is mild(low-mid 11s), PCT is wild(low-mid 12s) and the P30 is in between.
Its important to not that the P30 will have to be a jdm piston. All USDM b16a
pistons are pr3. It all boils down to the intended purpose.
PR3 is mild(low-mid 11s), PCT is wild(low-mid 12s) and the P30 is in between.
Its important to not that the P30 will have to be a jdm piston. All USDM b16a
pistons are pr3. It all boils down to the intended purpose.
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