Self install.......how much of a pain is it going into a 99EK? Remove seats etc a lot of tweaking/twisting? Solid welded diagonal recommended over bolt? Thanks.

 

A friend of mine has one. Its not very hard at all. 2 people could do it fairly easy.

 

It's kind of a pain if you want to keep your rear plastic panels. Otherwise its pretty straight forward. Remember to double up on the nuts for the mounts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dc2vu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's kind of a pain if you want to keep your rear plastic panels. Otherwise its pretty straight forward. Remember to double up on the nuts for the mounts.</TD></TR></TABLE>
also, remember to prime and paint the plates and put the hardware 'up' into the car.

 

Really easy install. Took me 30 mins for my hatch.

 

Are these Roll Bars SCCA NASA or any racing body legal??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PuroMotor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are these Roll Bars SCCA NASA or any racing body legal??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, but the cages are.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1200 Hobos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Nope, but the cages are.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Even the bolt-in ones? Im assuming you would have to weld them down to be legal.

 

Even the bolt-in ones.

 

Yep, bolt-in cages are legal, just require doorbars.

 

I'm not doing a full cage until after I have my license and know more specifically what I want to do. Just putting it in for added safety.

Had a shop tell me about $350 to install where I was looking to purchase the bar from........no thanks.

 

$350, holy ****. Here's what you do.

Read carefully through the following two threads:
http://www.sandmracing.com/srollbar.html
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=908999

The first is an install how-to, the second has comments by a lot of smart people for little "tips 'n tricks". It's already been written up clearly, so I'm not going to do it again.

If you have a drill and some common sense, it's not difficult at all.

Also, not to poke fun or anything, but here's how NOT to install a rollbar:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=787076
The final product is fine, but the way they go about it is FTL.

Edit: Although the installs are for an Integra, it's the exact same process for any other car, Honda or not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, not to poke fun or anything, but here's how NOT to install a rollbar:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=787076
The final product is fine, but the way they go about it is FTL.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure stopping to pose and flip off the camera in most of the pictures didn't help with the install at all

The only help I needed with my autopower install was getting the main hoop into the car. After that, it was eeeaaasy by myself.

One tip I thought was helpful was I started by drilling one hole and putting a bolt through at EACH point to get the bar placed. Then I went through and drilled holes and installed bolts for the other two holes at each point. Have fun

 

The S&M install does cover that It is a good tip though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also, not to poke fun or anything, but here's how NOT to install a rollbar:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=787076
The final product is fine, but the way they go about it is FTL.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

***

 

 

my autopower u-weld kit (had the rollbar. u weld is the front half) welds together and bolts to the floor . but it did come with two (2) door bars per side

 

$350.00? Thats quite a bit. But it did take me about 5 hours to install.

I had to remove all my seats including the rear plastic panels. You have to remove the rearview mirror and run one that mounts to the front upper bar. I used a 14" Longacre convex. This is a picture below how I install the rear interior panel. I had to cut it in 2 pieces. Slide it behind the bars. They were dimensionally too long to slip behind the main hoop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my autopower u-weld kit (had the rollbar. u weld is the front half) welds together and bolts to the floor . but it did come with two (2) door bars per side </TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are the rules now for the bolt-ins. They must have two door bars as opposed to one like before. Althought X-bars are even better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1200 Hobos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Those are the rules now for the bolt-ins. They must have two door bars as opposed to one like before. Althought X-bars are even better.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, thanks. i knew that. welcome to last year's door bar rules.
X bars are not better.

 

Oh yah? Well..

 

Migs, this guy is doing just the 4-point bar, not the 6-point, so there should be no problem with the rearview mirror.

 

a friendly reminder when keeping the panels and not hacking up the hole, fit the bar/cage first,pull it out,then put the panels on, and just fit the main hoop inplace, then mount a laser dot on the side rear bar mounting area, and mark the panel where the laser hits on the panel with a sharpie, then with a larger then the bar size diameter circular hole cutout saw(to compenstae for some flex and side to side and to be able to get inside with your extension for the bolts), drill the center of your sharpie mark. now you know your panels will look good and the side bars fit. trying ot eye ball a hole to where a bar need to go threw the panel sucks, i found this method easier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tthomass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not doing a full cage until after I have my license and know more specifically what I want to do. Just putting it in for added safety.

Had a shop tell me about $350 to install where I was looking to purchase the bar from........no thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can only get your license in a car that has or can get a logbook. Therefore, you will have to get a NASA/SCCA compliant rollcage in order to get your license.

Obviously you are working towards it and I am not saying do it now, but just keep that in mind.

I did the same thing as you. I put in an Autopower rollbar for all my HPDE's and then right when I felt I was ready to go W2W, I paid for a custom welded rollcage and took the test for my license.

 

sorry i just joined this convo.. but is the 4pt still legal for HPDE's?

What about scca autox? i know they have to be inspected but anything that doesn't have door bars isn't legal?