help: painted my urethane lip but didn't come out as shiny
i painted my poly urethane front lip and it doesnt shine as much...i followed the procedures for painting urethane lips which was scuff with a 3m fine scuff pad, clean, primer with a poly urethane primer, through some light coats of base, around 4 layers, then clear coated it with 3 layers...used duplicolor base and clear coat brand...and waited 15 minutes between coats...what could of went wrong?? cause i wanna paint my rear lip soon but want it to shine like peoples i seen here...oh and i did it outside my backyard but wasnt windy at all
what would wet sanding do?? with a scuff pad?? i heard yur not supposed to regular sand it with paper cause you scratch up the thread and it cant be smoothin out
is their a special kind of clear coat for poly urethane like their is for primer or somethin??
its all in how you apply the clear. Theres a couple diff ways to do it, if your more comfortable being futher away from the part like maybe 6-8 inches away you want to apply in a slow steady motion, with probably 2-3 passes. The other way is to get in close and go fast, close like 1-2 1/2" and make several passes, beware tho this way takes a little more skill because you can and most likely will run it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cilvia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i painted my poly urethane front lip and it doesnt shine as much...i followed the procedures for painting urethane lips which was scuff with a 3m fine scuff pad, clean, primer with a poly urethane primer, through some light coats of base, around 4 layers, then clear coated it with 3 layers...used duplicolor base and clear coat brand...and waited 15 minutes between coats...what could of went wrong?? cause i wanna paint my rear lip soon but want it to shine like peoples i seen here...oh and i did it outside my backyard but wasnt windy at all</TD></TR></TABLE>
did you use some sort of promoter for the lip? as far as i know they flex like a wet noodle and you need a. promoter or at least a good 2k epoxy primer so it not flakes off.
what pad did you use? most of the bare urtherane lip has a cheap chinese mold release, you need to sand those bastard off or it will not stick(or not stick after you scrape something)
did you read the flash time off the can? is the clearcoat not shiny like it's muddy?
maybe a dieback problem if you didn't leave the base enough to flash, go read the back of the can.
did you use some sort of promoter for the lip? as far as i know they flex like a wet noodle and you need a. promoter or at least a good 2k epoxy primer so it not flakes off.
what pad did you use? most of the bare urtherane lip has a cheap chinese mold release, you need to sand those bastard off or it will not stick(or not stick after you scrape something)
did you read the flash time off the can? is the clearcoat not shiny like it's muddy?
maybe a dieback problem if you didn't leave the base enough to flash, go read the back of the can.
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If your using spray paint, knock down the surface peal without breaking through and re-clear it. Buffing it at that point wouldn't be the best option, once its flat sanded. Sounds like you need to lay it down right so the clear build flows out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA_teg04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its all in how you apply the clear. Theres a couple diff ways to do it, if your more comfortable being futher away from the part like maybe 6-8 inches away you want to apply in a slow steady motion, with probably 2-3 passes. The other way is to get in close and go fast, close like 1-2 1/2" and make several passes, beware tho this way takes a little more skill because you can and most likely will run it</TD></TR></TABLE>
what if i had some runs here and there before i applied the clear?? would that have effected it?? i waited for it to completly dry before i applied the clear...other than that i havent had any cracks or peels and it sticks on really good actually
what if i had some runs here and there before i applied the clear?? would that have effected it?? i waited for it to completly dry before i applied the clear...other than that i havent had any cracks or peels and it sticks on really good actually
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cilvia »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what if i had some runs here and there before i applied the clear?? would that have effected it?? i waited for it to completly dry before i applied the clear...other than that i havent had any cracks or peels and it sticks on really good actually</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course it stick good right now, but you are going to scrape it later down the line..well, that's not important now.
why don't you sand the runs before you clear?
post a picture
what if i had some runs here and there before i applied the clear?? would that have effected it?? i waited for it to completly dry before i applied the clear...other than that i havent had any cracks or peels and it sticks on really good actually</TD></TR></TABLE>
of course it stick good right now, but you are going to scrape it later down the line..well, that's not important now.
why don't you sand the runs before you clear?
post a picture
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