I have a 2000 Integra GSR. The primary O2 sensor keeps triggering the CHECK ENGINE light. I've replaced the sensor 3 times with all brand new OEM fit sensors with the OEM plug (1 Denso, 1 NTK, 1 Bosch). After I replace the sensor and clear the check engine light, it only takes a few days for the CHECK ENGINE light to come back one. For instance, I just replaced the O2 sensor Friday January 18th. It just came on today (sunday) after only driving 57 miles!!!!!

It has done this all 3 times I have changed the O2 sensor. I bought the car in October and the previous owner said it needs an O2 sensor but he had the light cleared a few days before I bought. The light came on a few days after I bought the car and then about a week later I put the new Denso O2 sensor in. A few days later, the check engine light came back on, and it was the O2 sensor.

That is exactly what happened the next 2 times.

Anyone have any ideas to why the O2 sensor keeps triggering the CHECK ENGINE light???

Thanks.

 

are you plugging it in right? are you burning oil? how does the o2 look after you take it out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blahblah718293 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you plugging it in right? are you burning oil? how does the o2 look after you take it out?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's an OEM plug. Of course it's plugged in right. Only 1 way to plug it in.

Yes the car burns oil.

The last O2 sensor I took out on friday was black but the front was white along with my spark plugs meaning that the car is running too rich and getting too hot.

---&gt; I've advanced the timing 2 degree's with the distributor to lean it out a little to see if that would prevent it from running rich.. (yes I used a timing light).

 

What are your other mods? Do you have a test pipe in place of the cat?

 

a car thats running rich runs cooler, leaner mixtures cause higher temps. and im pretty sure white means your lean. advancing the timing 2 degrees will not change the mixture, just how it burns. id suggest putting your timing back to normal. and i asked if the car burns oil because that may coat the o2 and cause it to suffocate. that doesnt sound like the case though.

and as for the test pipe. hes talking about the primary o2 sensor, which is upstream of the cat.

 

Mods: Tanabe Hyper Medallion Catback exhaust, stock cat, Injen Intake.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blahblah718293 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a car thats running rich runs cooler, leaner mixtures cause higher temps. and im pretty sure white means your lean.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well in the Haynes Manual in the back it has pictures of spark plugs and tells you the condition and whats going on.

My plugs are white, and the plug from #1 cylinder had white deposits on it. And in the book it says that means it's running rich.

My 1st assumption was that the oil was burning so much that it was coating the O2 sensor and killing it, but after this last one, there is no way that it would have done that so fast and its not burning that much oil and its not building up on the O2 either.

 

if there is nothing wrong with any of the other sensors then it could probably be a bad ECU.

not a chance that 3 brand new o2 sensors fail so quickly......

 

hmm well in my haynes, it says white deposits mean too hot. it says: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haynes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Recommendation: Check for the correct plug heat range, over-advanced ignition timing, lean fuel mixture, intake manifold vacuum leaks, sticking valves, and insufficient engine cooling.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lean, over-advanced ignition timing... that still shouldnt wreck your o2. as that guy said, it may be the ecu, also make sure all the wires are good in the line, you may have dammaged a wire in along the line whilst replacing the o2.

 

Well I just finished checking the Acura Manual, and its not the O2 Sensor..

The OBD2 Scanners say bank 1 P0420, but that is actually the Catalytic converter or the 2nd O2 sensor..

 

if is a P0420 thats for a catalyst effeciency below threshold, more likely you are going to need a cat, I think factory cats have a 80 or 100,000 milles warranty, check with the dealer if your car is still with in this milleage but if they see that you have aftermarket engine parts I dont think they will cover it.

 

P0420 is for the converter not the o2 sensor.

replace the converter and clear codes.......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by non-VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P0420 is for the converter not the o2 sensor.

replace the converter and clear codes....... </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i know that.. just finished looking through the Acura Manual.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by God-Driven &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">iI think factory cats have a 80 or 100,000 milles warranty, check with the dealer if your car is still with in this milleage but if they see that you have aftermarket engine parts I dont think they will cover it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have 143,000 miles. I doubt that is still covered

If not, I'm just gonna go with a Carsound 2.5inch because I have a STRUP 4-1 ITR header with 2.5 collector sitting in my closet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luke.munnell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are your other mods? Do you have a test pipe in place of the cat?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

...As I was going to say, check the catalytic converter and its attached sensor for damage.

If the cat is bad, it will change the reading of its sensor, throwing off the relationship the two sensors have with each other, which will prompt a check engine code.

Easiest solution would be to replace the cat with a stock replacement. Cheapest would be to swap in a test pipe.

If the cat IS bad, its most likely an indication that the car is or was running rich. Now you have a new problem to tackle...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luke.munnell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easiest solution would be to replace the cat with a stock replacement. Cheapest would be to swap in a test pipe.

If the cat IS bad, its most likely an indication that the car is or was running rich. Now you have a new problem to tackle... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Test pipe won't work on an OBD2 I'm pretty sure since there is an o2 sensor at the rear of the cat reading whats coming out of the cat, and if i have a hollow test pipe, it wont be reading right.

when i bought the car, it was running rich. the previous owner had a B&M FPR and had it turned up thinking that it would make more power. But all he did was mess the motor up. I put the stock FPR back on and now i guess the last thing to do is fix the cat. I got 3 new o2 sensors now i guess lol.

 

Ahhh, the DIY 'tuner'... Thank the last guy for screwing up your cat for you

And my bad - a test pipe WILL still throw a CEL in OBD2... but it will get the job (of allowing your engine to breathe) done.

Still - a replacement cat is always the best option. Get yourself a good high-flow cat from Catco or Random, or spend $100 on a universal one at an auto parts store.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luke.munnell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ahhh, the DIY 'tuner'... Thank the last guy for screwing up your cat for you

Still - a replacement cat is always the best option. Get yourself a good high-flow cat from Catco or Random, or spend $100 on a universal one at an auto parts store. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ya i know.. not very bright.. i didn't wanna say anything when i seen the adjustable FPR because i was getting a good deal on the car.. but some people just don't have a clue.

I'm thinking I'm either gonna get a stock cat or buy a Carsound (Magnaflow) 2.5inch cat because I have a STRUP JDM ITR header sitting in my closet and was waiting to use it when i did a ITR swap, but I might just go ahead and get it all done now.