Car will not turn over. Contemplating suicide.
Ok, I searched and couldn't really come up with anything that helped, so I could really use some of you Honda guru's help. I have a 97 Integra GS. When I got it it already did not run. I immedeatly replaced the head gasket cause I was told it might be going soon. When I put the head back on I put everything TDC and torqued everything back to specification. The car would just crank and crank. I checked the spark and I had little to none. I ordered a brand new (to me) rebuilt distributor and put it on. Now when the car is sitting for a long period of time it sounds like it wants to crank over for a brief second, then it just cranks and cranks some more. The main relay appears good. There's a real deep rumble while it tries to crank while it tries to turn over with all its might. I'm at my wits end trying to figure this out, and to top it off it's freezing out so I don't have a whole lot of patience anymore. I'll be eternally gratefully to anyone who can help me get this P.O.S moving under its own power. Thank you in advance guys.
Okay first things first. A motor runs because of three key elements. Compression, spark, and fuel.
Check all three. Do a leakdown/compression test. Check for spark and check the injectors and fuel pump. Check to see if the fuel pump primes.
Next make sure all the idle control sensors are plugged in and in the right spots. Take off your iacv(idle air control valve) and clean the little screen out.
Seeing that you removed the head, im sure you mismatched some plugs. Their are two behind the intake manifold that can be swapped. Check those.
Ill give you a list of key words to look up incase you dont understand or know what im talking about.
-IACV(idle air control valve)
-Leakdown/compression test.(A compression test is actually what you need to do)
-Fuel pump prime(This is kinda hard to search for, you really need to just know the sound.)
Ill explain the fuel prime a little more. When you turn your car to the "on" position you will hear a noise. It will last for a second or two. Dont actually attempt to turn the car over, just put the key to the on position(the position where it wont turn any further).
Check all three. Do a leakdown/compression test. Check for spark and check the injectors and fuel pump. Check to see if the fuel pump primes.
Next make sure all the idle control sensors are plugged in and in the right spots. Take off your iacv(idle air control valve) and clean the little screen out.
Seeing that you removed the head, im sure you mismatched some plugs. Their are two behind the intake manifold that can be swapped. Check those.
Ill give you a list of key words to look up incase you dont understand or know what im talking about.
-IACV(idle air control valve)
-Leakdown/compression test.(A compression test is actually what you need to do)
-Fuel pump prime(This is kinda hard to search for, you really need to just know the sound.)
Ill explain the fuel prime a little more. When you turn your car to the "on" position you will hear a noise. It will last for a second or two. Dont actually attempt to turn the car over, just put the key to the on position(the position where it wont turn any further).
I failed to mention it's defintely getting fuel. I pulled the plugs and made sure, and the pump defintely primes, that was the first thing I checked before I found out I had no spark. I also failed to mention that I do have a plug on the bottom of my intake manifold that I cannot figure out where it goes. I am kind of a newbie but I do have mechanical experience, just with Nissans. All the kids around here are Honda heads and through one of them I got this car for cheap, thought it would be an easy fix since Hondas have this reputation but I guess I thought wrong. Anyway, I'll try all those things, thanks a million man. More suggestions would still be good though.
Well the reputation still holds strong. They are pretty easy once you know your way around them i guess. Most of the time its a really easy/small problem, but it just slips your mind.
Can you get a picture of the plug? If it is the one on the bottom of the IM im sure that is your problem. Get me a picture and i can be of more help.
Have you changed your distributor? or at least the cap and rotor?
Can you get a picture of the plug? If it is the one on the bottom of the IM im sure that is your problem. Get me a picture and i can be of more help.
Have you changed your distributor? or at least the cap and rotor?
Freshly rebuilt, the complete unit. Only thing that's reused is the wires. I can get a picture of the plug tomorrow, car is at dead in my friend's driveway. Thanks again man.
Sounds like your problem might lie in that mystery plug. Its a good place to start for sure.
Also - rule out the basics:
Are you sure the new distributor (and old one for that matter) is the proper unit for your application?
Are you absolutely sure the plug wires are in the right order? There are differences in B18 distributors of different years.
I had a main relay fail on me without any visible signs - easiest way to check is to replace it with a new one from the dealer/auto parts store. If nothing changes, take the new one back.
make sure the engine is grounded at the valve cover, trans, and battery. Missing grounds cause all kinds of problems.
95% of the time, something obvious is overlooked. Here's to hoping that's the case
Also - rule out the basics:
Are you sure the new distributor (and old one for that matter) is the proper unit for your application?
Are you absolutely sure the plug wires are in the right order? There are differences in B18 distributors of different years.
I had a main relay fail on me without any visible signs - easiest way to check is to replace it with a new one from the dealer/auto parts store. If nothing changes, take the new one back.
make sure the engine is grounded at the valve cover, trans, and battery. Missing grounds cause all kinds of problems.
95% of the time, something obvious is overlooked. Here's to hoping that's the case
I was told it's an obd2 non-vtec distributor. I made sure to get the right one because I almost got a vtec version but after searching on here I found out that would not work. I'll check everything you said tomorrow too, though except for the main relay I have checked all that, though it wouldn't hurt to do it again. Thank you for the help.
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does the car have an alarm? and how thoroughly have you checked for spark? are all your plugs good, and gapped properly?
Actually yeah, It does have an alarm. It's a joke though. There's a toggle switch because of it but either way it's on it doesn't seem to alter anything.
Okay sooooo, I know it's been awhile but car still doesn't start. I've checked all my grounds, I figured out where my mystery plug went and still nothing. It still just cranks and cranks, and actually when it does it smells like fuel, pretty strongly too.
Yup, brand new fuel filter. I don't have any check engine lights besides of course when I turn the key on, but that's when all the lights come on. I replaced all the wires the exact way I took them off the old distributor because I didn't unplug them until the new distributor was on.
Ok so you got fuel no question about that. Its either spark or the timing of the spark. Do you have a timing gun? Helms manual? You need to check your coil and ignitor inside your distributor and make sure they are up to the right specs.
Here is the manual for your car
http://www.google.com/search?h...nuals
Here is the manual for your car
http://www.google.com/search?h...nuals
did you do a valve lash/valve adjustment if you mixed up the rocker arms putting everything back that could be why its not starting. Happen to me before.
I have to plead ignorance on this one. I did not know the rocker arms go in a specific order. I'll try to search it.
well you should put them back in the same spot they were when you took them off, or just do a valve adjustment to make sure its within spec.
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