aluminum or SS for i/c piping?
I'm in the process of doing new i/c piping for my car. I'm debating if I should use ss or aluminum piping? I run about 30-35psi. I keep hearing that with aluminum you cant really clamp it down without bucking/crushing the ends? I dont want to have any issues with hoses poping off. Welding of either one is a problem.
Thanks
Adriano
Thanks
Adriano
I would use aluminum. It is lighter and cools quicker than ss. Vibrant Performance has a neat way of holding joints together. Check out this link. http://vibrantperformance.com/...2f3b0
Are you afraid of the coupler blowing off? If you use high quality couplers and t-bolt clamps you should have nothing to worry about. I used couplers from http://www.turbohoses.com
Are you afraid of the coupler blowing off? If you use high quality couplers and t-bolt clamps you should have nothing to worry about. I used couplers from http://www.turbohoses.com
Al. Transfers more of the heat, easier to work with. Have a shop roll some beads on the ends of the tubing keep the tubing together, or Get longer couplers the more surface area of the coupler the better it will hold (plus you can use multiple clamps at a lower clamping force if bending the tubing is a worry.
Trending Topics
.065" is what most of us use. I think a little thicker would be nice just to avoid dents and to be able to clamp a little tighter.
I dont like using t-bolt clamps though. they dont clamp as evenly as a heavy duty, constant tension worm clamp. NAPA sells pretty nice ones.
I dont like using t-bolt clamps though. they dont clamp as evenly as a heavy duty, constant tension worm clamp. NAPA sells pretty nice ones.
Ive used ss piping for my last two setups and I use t-bolt clamps and tighten the eff out of them. The only way Id go to aluminum is if I could find it in like .080-.090 wall. But then again...I have lots of stainless...
I used .065 aluminum in my last few setup's with out any problems.
As long as you beed roll the ends/weld a beed around or use the inserts your fine.
btw: I have a bunch of aluminum 2.5" 90* and 45* left over if anyone is interested.
As long as you beed roll the ends/weld a beed around or use the inserts your fine.
btw: I have a bunch of aluminum 2.5" 90* and 45* left over if anyone is interested.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use 16ga aluminum on everything. Roll a nice bead on it and use a regular worm clamp. T Bolts are the death of aluminum piping!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Amen Brother................
Amen Brother................
Do you guys think that I'll see any gains If I use 3" instead of 2.5"? My car currently makes 650whp on stock ports, but the head is getting ported and I added a 3.5" d/p and exhaust. I was aiming for 700whp this season. Thanks
Adriano
Adriano
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2150138
I know there are others in the past but this one gets the idea across.
I know there are others in the past but this one gets the idea across.
i use vibrant stuff. its .065 but its pretty soft. temper is next to nothing on those bends. i usually weld a bead at the end and about an inch in for strength. seems to work fine as long as you don't man handle the t-bolts.
running steel sucks ss or mild. they heat soak pretty bad, not to mention most people don't backpurge when they weld, so you end up sucking up sugar from the inside of the pipes.
aluminum
running steel sucks ss or mild. they heat soak pretty bad, not to mention most people don't backpurge when they weld, so you end up sucking up sugar from the inside of the pipes.
aluminum
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by manifoldmiketyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i use vibrant stuff. its .065 but its pretty soft. temper is next to nothing on those bends. i usually weld a bead at the end and about an inch in for strength. seems to work fine as long as you don't man handle the t-bolts.
running steel sucks ss or mild. they heat soak pretty bad, not to mention most people don't backpurge when they weld, so you end up sucking up sugar from the inside of the pipes.
aluminum
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Steel heatsoaks but aluminum gets hotter faster. Which is better? Depends on what kind of racing you are doing. People are using carbon fiber more and more which is more like steel than aluminum....
Also the weld thing, you can't blame the material for people sucking at welding. Steel charge pipes should be fused with little to no filler rod. The amount of stress on charge pipes is next to nothing. As long as they hold pressure and can withstand minimal stresses, the welds will last.
running steel sucks ss or mild. they heat soak pretty bad, not to mention most people don't backpurge when they weld, so you end up sucking up sugar from the inside of the pipes.
aluminum
</TD></TR></TABLE>Steel heatsoaks but aluminum gets hotter faster. Which is better? Depends on what kind of racing you are doing. People are using carbon fiber more and more which is more like steel than aluminum....
Also the weld thing, you can't blame the material for people sucking at welding. Steel charge pipes should be fused with little to no filler rod. The amount of stress on charge pipes is next to nothing. As long as they hold pressure and can withstand minimal stresses, the welds will last.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




