I"m getting mixed answers on this one. Most of my bushings are trashed and I was going to get the full energy bushing kit and have the car done. But now I'm hearing that I should get just rubber. Sorry I have a 91 CRX daily driven street car. Anyway the person that told me to go with the rubber owns a good alignment shop and seems to know his ****. Someone said that Mugen has a bushing kit but I can't find it anywhere. Any recommendations or a link to where I can find the Mugen bushing kit. I put this up in the suspension forum and all I got was a smart *** answer. Any help would be great.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pooper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I"m getting mixed answers on this one. Most of my bushings are trashed and I was going to get the full energy bushing kit and have the car done. But now I'm hearing that I should get just rubber. Sorry I have a 91 CRX daily driven street car. Anyway the person that told me to go with the rubber owns a good alignment shop and seems to know his ****. Someone said that Mugen has a bushing kit but I can't find it anywhere. Any recommendations or a link to where I can find the Mugen bushing kit. I put this up in the suspension forum and all I got was a smart *** answer. Any help would be great.
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DO NOT GO WITH POLY.

It is not as great as some make it sound and I far far prefer rubber from the rides I've been in for comparison. Poly makes a few axis bind on things like LCAs that shouldn't bind, causing strain, wear and issues with proper deflection when compressing the suspension components.

No idea on the Moogen kit, they do have one, but I don't know if that's just for LCAs or not? I'd ask around in the marketplace, maybe throw up a WTB. Otherwise, you could always contact Moogen USA about it.

 

thanks I appreciate it.

 

Mugen doesn't offer a "kit" rather you have to buy upper frt. suspension, lower frt. suspenson, etc. The only "official" dealer is http://www.kingmotorsports.com. The cost for Mugen hard rubber bushings? Add them all up and it's over $600........

**Ninja edit** just checked Kingmotorsports site and they are no longer offering rear bushing for the CRX. So the price is now around $340 for the frontend.

 

I have also heard that the Mugen Hard bushings are not much harder than the factory bushings.

Your best bet is just to replace them with stock. If your's are worn out now you will notice a vast improvement with the stock ones.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgallagher &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have also heard that the Mugen Hard bushings are not much harder than the factory bushings.
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not true.

the only instance where mugen bushings are not harder than "stock" is the new rear trailing bushings you can buy thru honda now. they actually are very similar if not the same as the mugen ones.

however these new ones you can buy are NOT the same as the ORIGINAL trailing arm bushing. they were a replacement because the originals were too soft. so its not surprising that what they ended up with was something similar to Mugen, who goes thru the original part manufacturers anyway.


anyone who's actually bought and used real mugen bushings, other than the rear trailing arm, can tell you it really is harder rubber. especially the rubber motor mounts.

 

it may be that all your bushings are toast. its almost 2 decades old.

however replacing the stock bushings with poly isnt the best thing. they have inherent issues in their design. and they arent better in my opinion.

so its best to buy OEM rubber bushings, and buy them individually as needed.

like for the front, you just need the lower control arm inner bushing. the lower shock bushing isnt as necessary to replace. you can if you want, especially if the car is sagging because of the old rubber being messed up. the bushings at the upper control arm come WITH a new control arm and balljoint. so i dont recommend buying them separately. just buy the whole upper control arm/balljoint when you need to.

for the rear, again, you can just get away with replacing the lower control arm inner. interestingly, the rear upper control arm has an aligned dogbone bushing. if youre lowered, replacing that bushing and reclocking it is a good idea too.

 

go to http://www.drivewire.com they have pretty much all the rubber oem type bushings for EF's, they even have full rubber trailing arm bushings. you can buy them all individually and they are very reasonably priced.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by godruler &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go to http://www.drivewire.com they have pretty much all the rubber oem type bushings for EF's, they even have full rubber trailing arm bushings. you can buy them all individually and they are very reasonably priced. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, that site seems pretty similar to http://www.ips-parts.com/ where you can buy parts from "OEM Quality" manufacturers. it might be the SAME, or it might be from an alternate OE manufacturer. the prices are definately cheap. but its not OEM. may be worth taking the chance.

i bought a master cylinder from ips parts and it came pretty much packaged like OEM would, looked just like a brand new OEM, just without the OEM part number.

it worked. thats all i can say.

 

Thanks, I tried this in the suspension forum and got flamed by some douche. You two have been more the helpful I appreciate it.

 

IMO it depends on 3 things: your tools, your budget, and your ***.

If you don't have a press but can swing a hammer, don't want to spend too much, and don't mind a little harsher ride w/ tighter handling, go poly. An entire kit is all of $130 or so, and takes a night to put in. Basicly you burn the bushings out, cutting the outter rings, then smack them with a hammer squarely to get them in. The only poly part that could bind would be the trailing arm bushing, but you can get them from the non-ES mfg where the poly is not molded to the metal.

I don't have a press, wanted better control of the suspension, and didn't want to pay a lot, so I went with poly. Everythings working great, its seen 10k miles, 2k ago I swapped them from one car to another, all looked fine. For a normal DD, they should last a long time.

<U>People say they won't last, but their evidence is a dedicated track car.</U> Last guy I talked to said OEM wheel studs last about 4-5 races before they snap, to give you an idea of how much abuse the cars see. When was the last time you had a car where the stud snapped - and it wasn't installation error?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<U>People say they won't last, but their evidence is a dedicated track car.</U></TD></TR></TABLE>

no, actually its worse for a street car.
http://www.crxsi.com/resources...rflex/

 

besides the underside of that car looking like total hell already, those bushing didn't look happy at all. I'd say that sold it for me because it sounds like i'll be replacing thos before to long the way i treat my car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pooper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">besides the underside of that car looking like total hell already, those bushing didn't look happy at all. I'd say that sold it for me because it sounds like i'll be replacing thos before to long the way i treat my car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want to do that, have fun. You're expletiveing your ride though.

I'd rather do rubber myself every so often (say, how old is your car? 20 years?) than deal with all the problems with poly.

But do what you will. Mugen does rubber, not poly. I frankly think they have more racing experience, what with engineers and all, than I do, but what do i know?

 

see... i have not had a problem with my poly bushings on my eg. there fine. been 15k miles. only noise is the fact that i havnt sprayed them with lube since i put them in. it only does a little squeek over speed bumps. it handles great. no alignment issues. idk, maybe its different with the ef? o, i also live in indiana (COLD winters and hot summers)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oreopeete &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">see... i have not had a problem with my poly bushings on my eg. there fine. been 15k miles. only noise is the fact that i havnt sprayed them with lube since i put them in. it only does a little squeek over speed bumps. it handles great. no alignment issues. idk, maybe its different with the ef? o, i also live in indiana (COLD winters and hot summers)</TD></TR></TABLE>

It isn't an issue of noise or premature wear, it is an issue of your suspension working properly on bound and rebound.

It causes binding that isn't useful in a serious track condition, in good turning, and generally for an effective suspension set-up.

Ask the suspension forum again if you guys are going to keep arguing with points that I am not making.

 

i'm happy with the answers i've gotten and will be going with rubber bushings. and as for asking the suspension forum, expletive those guys because all they did was flame me with smart *** answers. You all have been more than helpful and I appreciate the input.

 

Is there a list of each of the OEM bushings that need to be replaced? Would someone possibly be able to make a list of OEM replacements that are offered in one of the poly kits for example.



thanks

 

All of them.... Depending on your car.

 

Thanks! Maybe I should ask the question again. Is there a list somewhere of all the OEM Honda bushings on my 88 CRX?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schueytenten &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks! Maybe I should ask the question again. Is there a list somewhere of all the OEM Honda bushings on my 88 CRX?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.majestichonda.com

I don't know of one off the top of my head, easiest is probably searching upper and lower control arms, etc. and getting bushing numbers from there.

 

Like i've said in previous threads before... Poly is mislabelled as being "performance" when the only situations its really even acceptable is stationary things such as motor mounts and the like. If you want a race car, buy some progress press in spherical bushings. If you want something that doesn't screw you in your kidneys everytime you go down the road, get oem rubber or harder rubber.

On the note.... whats good with finding some place to replicate the oem bushings in a stiffer durometer of rubber?