95 honda accord 4dr lx mt
what camber kits are good for my type of car?

 

There are various kinds, I have the washer trick in the back and SPEC's up front on the upper cont arms. I have another set ready to ship for 80. If your interested. it can adjust for up to a 3" drop.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sadam-insane &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are various kinds, I have the washer trick in the back and SPEC's up front on the upper cont arms. I have another set ready to ship for 80. If your interested. it can adjust for up to a 3" drop. </TD></TR></TABLE>
can i see a pic of them??

 

I wouldn't bother with any of them for a street driven car. They don't do much good unless you're a dedicated drag racer, or your car has been severely damaged and cannot be straightened, causing grossly uneven alignment numbers.

Many aftermarket kits tend to slip, the ball joints and bushings are usually of poor quality, and they often cause clearance issues - in some cases reducing compression travel and/or damaging the body.

If you're concerned about tire wear, just have the toe alignment set to the center of the factory tolerance range, or as close to 0.00* as possible at all four corners. That should minimize any uneven wear.

 

Camber != Toe

If he has uneven wear on one edge of the tire, adjusting the toe will not help, and depending on the car putting the Toe at zero can increase or decrease the toe out on turns and worsen the wear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Megalomaniac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Camber != Toe

If he has uneven wear on one edge of the tire, adjusting the toe will not help, and depending on the car putting the Toe at zero can increase or decrease the toe out on turns and worsen the wear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Come back and post when you actually have experience with alignments, because it's clear that you don't.

I'm not trying to be a jerknob, but myself and countless others have years of experience aligning our own cars. A reasonable amount of static negative camber will not cause uneven treadwear, but a significant amount of static toe will.

Dynamic alignment changes do not affect tire wear much on a primarily street driven car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Megalomaniac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Camber != Toe

If he has uneven wear on one edge of the tire, adjusting the toe will not help, and depending on the car putting the Toe at zero can increase or decrease the toe out on turns and worsen the wear.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i checked my tires and they dont look likes theres uneven wear

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Megalomaniac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Camber != Toe

If he has uneven wear on one edge of the tire, adjusting the toe will not help, and depending on the car putting the Toe at zero can increase or decrease the toe out on turns and worsen the wear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

welcome to honda tech. youve got a lot to learn.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wesk18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i checked my tires and they dont look likes theres uneven wear</TD></TR></TABLE>

so why are you trying to adjust camber? theres lot of good reasons, lots of bad ones. i just wanna know what yours is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so why are you trying to adjust camber? theres lot of good reasons, lots of bad ones. i just wanna know what yours is.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i really dont need to adjust them i just wanted info on what are camber kits for and are use for?

my only problem right now is my car shakes on high speed from the wheels i guess and goes to the left on slow speeds.

 

are you lowered?

camber kits are used to adjust camber of course. you adjust camber to tune your handling and grip levels. particularly, you can adjust camber to zero for best straight line grip, like for drag racing. camber does change as ride height changes, or as the side gets loaded in a turn. and thats purposely, because as you corner, negative camber is a good thing. and other than not giving you the most straight line grip, its not a bad thing either if youre just going straight.

if you are getting weird bumpsteer issues, then its possible your cross camber or cross caster is extreme. that would probably suggest really worn out bushings, or even bent suspension and/or frame. obviously if you knwo the cars hit a curb or been in an accident before, thats the likely cause. so you CAN get a camber kit to just even out the cross camber, but its a bandaid and not the real fix in this situation. but you wont know until you get your alignment measured anyway if this is the case...

as far as your shaking issues. depending on the exact speed it happens, i would look into bad tie rod or balljoints. if those boots are torn, almost gauranteed your balljoint (or tie rod) needs to be replaced. now if it only happens from 60-70mph, then its a wheel balance or tire issue for sure.

it of course doesnt hurt to get an alignment done. but i just dont think its your only problem, so check out the suspension or have it checked for you and fix the real problem, then you can get the alignment done.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you lowered?

camber kits are used to adjust camber of course. you adjust camber to tune your handling and grip levels. particularly, you can adjust camber to zero for best straight line grip, like for drag racing. camber does change as ride height changes, or as the side gets loaded in a turn. and thats purposely, because as you corner, negative camber is a good thing. and other than not giving you the most straight line grip, its not a bad thing either if youre just going straight.

if you are getting weird bumpsteer issues, then its possible your cross camber or cross caster is extreme. that would probably suggest really worn out bushings, or even bent suspension and/or frame. obviously if you knwo the cars hit a curb or been in an accident before, thats the likely cause. so you CAN get a camber kit to just even out the cross camber, but its a bandaid and not the real fix in this situation. but you wont know until you get your alignment measured anyway if this is the case...

as far as your shaking issues. depending on the exact speed it happens, i would look into bad tie rod or balljoints. if those boots are torn, almost gauranteed your balljoint (or tie rod) needs to be replaced. now if it only happens from 60-70mph, then its a wheel balance or tire issue for sure.

it of course doesnt hurt to get an alignment done. but i just dont think its your only problem, so check out the suspension or have it checked for you and fix the real problem, then you can get the alignment done.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup yup
look...










Modified by wesk18 at 9:10 PM 1/16/2008

 

Your right front suspension has been damaged. The wheel should be centered in the wheel well, but in the photo it appears to have positive caster. You have a bent control arm or crossmember, and possibly some other bent parts. Did you hit a curb?

The uneven caster is the reason the car is pulling to one side. Your vibration problem may be a bent wheel or damaged tire.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your right front suspension has been damaged. The wheel should be centered in the wheel well, but in the photo it appears to have positive caster. You have a bent control arm or crossmember, and possibly some other bent parts. Did you hit a curb?

The uneven caster is the reason the car is pulling to one side. Your vibration problem may be a bent wheel or damaged tire.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i bought the car like that but i am sure from that side it was hit but not sure how damage it could of been,
i notice that the wheel is not center but it could be the fender but i dont know what should i check if i have a bent control arm and a crossmember

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wesk18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yup yup
look...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup yup, what?

you gotta take your car to a body shop and see what they say. it does look like something is bent. which means caster is way off too. a shop can figure out whats bent and how much its going to cost you.

i wouldnt trust anyones estimate here with just a picture.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yup yup, what?

you gotta take your car to a body shop and see what they say. it does look like something is bent. which means caster is way off too. a shop can figure out whats bent and how much its going to cost you.

i wouldnt trust anyones estimate here with just a picture.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well right now i am not worry about the body i am worry about the parts that controls my car stability

 

well im not talking about fenders. im talking about bent subframes and control arms.

im guessing a body shop runs into their fair share of accidents to know the difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im not talking about fenders. im talking about bent subframes and control arms.

im guessing a body shop runs into their fair share of accidents to know the difference.</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay, yea verly right now i called a wheel alingment place and i ask the guy if he does alingment for lowered cars he said yea, he ask me why i need an alingment i explain to him whats my problem he ask me if i had an accident i told him no but the previous owner did and it was hit from the front right side, he told me that could be the problem and some parts might be damage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Come back and post when you actually have experience with alignments, because it's clear that you don't.

I'm not trying to be a jerknob, but myself and countless others have years of experience aligning our own cars. A reasonable amount of static negative camber will not cause uneven treadwear, but a significant amount of static toe will.

Dynamic alignment changes do not affect tire wear much on a primarily street driven car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I work on everything from golf carts to tractor-trailers and I've done more than a few alignments. Just setting the Toe will not cure all kinds of wear as your post made it seem, setting the Toe will help depending on how far off his alignment is. A car's toe can be perfect but it can still have +/- a few degrees of camber off spec. I'd like for you to explain to me how setting the Toe can prevent wear on the inside edge of the tire resulting from excessive negative camber, as apparently since I have so little posts on this forum I known absolutely nothing about suspensions and have never worked on them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Megalomaniac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I work on everything from golf carts to tractor-trailers and I've done more than a few alignments. Just setting the Toe will not cure all kinds of wear as your post made it seem, setting the Toe will help depending on how far off his alignment is. A car's toe can be perfect but it can still have +/- a few degrees of camber off spec. I'd like for you to explain to me how setting the Toe can prevent wear on the inside edge of the tire resulting from excessive negative camber, as apparently since I have so little posts on this forum I known absolutely nothing about suspensions and have never worked on them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea it depends on how much u know not in how many posts u have.....

my problem with my right has u can see the pictures above is that the right side might be not center and some parts inside might be bend thats why i am having my car goes to the left and it shakes on high speeds

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Megalomaniac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd like for you to explain to me how setting the Toe can prevent wear on the inside edge of the tire resulting from excessive negative camber</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because "excessive" negative camber doesn't wear tires on the inner shoulder.

I'd like you to explain to me how I can run -2.7* of static camber with toe set to 0" and my tires do not wear the slightest bit unevenly, yet I can run -0.3* of camber with 1/8" of toe out and it rips the inner shoulders to shreds and causes a severely tapered wear pattern across the tread?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Because "excessive" negative camber doesn't wear tires on the inner shoulder.

I'd like you to explain to me how I can run -2.7* of static camber with toe set to 0" and my tires do not wear the slightest bit unevenly, yet I can run -0.3* of camber with 1/8" of toe out and it rips the inner shoulders to shreds and causes a severely tapered wear pattern across the tread?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Toe can exacerbate a tire's wearing as can the compound and structure of the tire, along with the weight and load placed on the tire. As can the the toe out on turns and steering axis inclination the later of which affects the scrub radius which can shift the point of pressure along the contact patch. All things held equal with more negative camber will have more wear along the inner edge of the tire

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Megalomaniac &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Toe can exacerbate a tire's wearing as can the compound and structure of the tire, along with the weight and load placed on the tire. As can the the toe out on turns and steering axis inclination the later of which affects the scrub radius which can shift the point of pressure along the contact patch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This occurred with the exact same tire make, model, and size on the exact same wheel on the exact same car. The only things that changed were the ride height, camber, and toe.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All things held equal with more negative camber will have more wear along the inner edge of the tire</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not significantly enough to need to be addressed. That's the point.

Theory does not disprove reality.

 

sorry wesk, this is completely going off topic, but apparently we have to do this every time a newcomer comes here spouting old myths.

point being, toe is what causes uneven tire wear that is most common after lowering. and its not camber as often believed. the solution to uneven tire wear after lowering is fixing the toe. not fixing the camber.

say whatever you want about camber, but its the toe. tell me what "spec" camber is when the ride height is no longer "in spec".

sure its the camber that directs the location of the uneven wear due to toe. but with the same amount of camber, and fixed toe, the tire wont wear unevenly (unless its doing burnouts).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry wesk, this is completely going off topic, but apparently we have to do this every time a newcomer comes here spouting old myths.

point being, toe is what causes uneven tire wear that is most common after lowering. and its not camber as often believed. the solution to uneven tire wear after lowering is fixing the toe. not fixing the camber.

say whatever you want about camber, but its the toe. tell me what "spec" camber is when the ride height is no longer "in spec".

sure its the camber that directs the location of the uneven wear due to toe. but with the same amount of camber, and fixed toe, the tire wont wear unevenly (unless its doing burnouts). </TD></TR></TABLE>

okay, well u think it might be my lower control arm that is making my car go do the left while driving slow