cable conversion to hydraulic
hey fellow memebrs i have me a 91 civic si an seeing im going boost i wanted too use hydraulic instead of my cable Now i dont mean usein a hydraulic tranmissin i mean converting the whole system from cable too hydraulic an has anyone done it before
I'm pretty sure you gotta use a hrydo tranny to convert to a hydro clutch....But I could be wrong.
I mean...You may be able to take a cable tranny apart and subsitute hydro tranny parts, but....WHY?
IDK if there is a good reason for trying this, but what's wrong with your cable clutch?
I mean...You may be able to take a cable tranny apart and subsitute hydro tranny parts, but....WHY?
IDK if there is a good reason for trying this, but what's wrong with your cable clutch?
I can't stand my set-up currently. I'm using a hydraulic transmission (y21) with the hasport cable/hydro conversion and it is so shitty feeling. The best way to describe it is clumsy and inconsistent.
Converting to a complete hydraulic system is next on my list of things to do with my car. From what I've read you cannot mount the clutch master cylinder on the firewall as there is not enough room. It has to mounted under the dash. A guy at endyne did it and also put together a sweet sleeper in the process. Check it out: http://www.theoldone.com/artic...c.htm
Converting to a complete hydraulic system is next on my list of things to do with my car. From what I've read you cannot mount the clutch master cylinder on the firewall as there is not enough room. It has to mounted under the dash. A guy at endyne did it and also put together a sweet sleeper in the process. Check it out: http://www.theoldone.com/artic...c.htm
Yeah, if you have a hydro transmission, I understand the swap to hydro clutch. From what I've seen, the hasport adapter isn't the greatest gift to mankind. That being said, if your transmission is a stock cable tranny, the whole setup with good condition components (read: Good OEM clutch cable, good (non-broken) pedal cluster) one should stay with a cable setup rather than hacking in a master cylinder under the dash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bagpipe goatee »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, if you have a hydro transmission, I understand the swap to hydro clutch. From what I've seen, the hasport adapter isn't the greatest gift to mankind. That being said, if your transmission is a stock cable tranny, the whole setup with good condition components (read: Good OEM clutch cable, good (non-broken) pedal cluster) one should stay with a cable setup rather than hacking in a master cylinder under the dash.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed
. If you've got a cable set-up with a good clutch, stick with it. No need to spend money when you don't have too. However having an ef with a complete hydraulic conversion would be sweet.
Agreed
. If you've got a cable set-up with a good clutch, stick with it. No need to spend money when you don't have too. However having an ef with a complete hydraulic conversion would be sweet.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16 ****** »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't stand my set-up currently. I'm using a hydraulic transmission (y21) with the hasport cable/hydro conversion and it is so shitty feeling. The best way to describe it is clumsy and inconsistent.
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My hasport has been working flawlessly for hte past 4 years with an unsprung 6 puck. Try greasing the throwout bearing and the mechism (use excess of grease
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My hasport has been working flawlessly for hte past 4 years with an unsprung 6 puck. Try greasing the throwout bearing and the mechism (use excess of grease
)
it can be done iv seen it b4 and iv done it u only need a slave cylinder for the clutch and the master or a inovative hydro conversion master cylinder or use a eg clutch cylinder also with some drilling and a nice strong bracket i can show u how to rig it up or if u want i can sell u the setup i got its cheep u got a integra tranny or civic tranny thats cable because i got the fork moded from an integra
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From: maybe one day ill be done with my car... not
i would just stick with the cable, unless its your DD, getting tired of that heavy cable clutch then i would do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91EF9hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would just stick with the cable, unless its your DD, getting tired of that heavy cable clutch then i would do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That statement is weak, the reason to convert is hte hydro tranny can handle more abuse than the weaker smaller cable counter parts.
That statement is weak, the reason to convert is hte hydro tranny can handle more abuse than the weaker smaller cable counter parts.
yea thats wat i mean i rather convert it all over too hydro cuz i thinnk it will handle more power better but has anyone done it in a 91 civic an can it be done
I've done it to my CRX... I love it too 
I've seen it done in different ways, just be creative
What I did was:
Pulled cable pedal assembly out of the car, cut off the clutch pedal completely hinge and all.
Welded in some 1/8 steel re-enforcement plates.
Mounted a Tilton reverse swing mount single pedal assembly w/tilton 3/4" MC
Ran a remote fluid reservoir on the firewall with the connecting hose ran though the stock clutch cable hole.
Ran 3/16" stainless hard line to the passenger side firewall and used a -3an bulkhead fitting.
Ran some earls ss braided line (-3an) to my hydraulic T/O bearing.
Fabbed up a pedal stop to prevent clutch damage....
That’s it, the problem now is Tilton has stopped production of the pedal assembly that I used and willwood did the same with the pedal they had that would work
I think CNC has one that might work, but by the looks of it, you might have to move your stock under dash fuse box to make room for the MC.
I’ll see if I can find some pictures of it when I get home.

I've seen it done in different ways, just be creative
What I did was:
Pulled cable pedal assembly out of the car, cut off the clutch pedal completely hinge and all.
Welded in some 1/8 steel re-enforcement plates.
Mounted a Tilton reverse swing mount single pedal assembly w/tilton 3/4" MC
Ran a remote fluid reservoir on the firewall with the connecting hose ran though the stock clutch cable hole.
Ran 3/16" stainless hard line to the passenger side firewall and used a -3an bulkhead fitting.
Ran some earls ss braided line (-3an) to my hydraulic T/O bearing.
Fabbed up a pedal stop to prevent clutch damage....
That’s it, the problem now is Tilton has stopped production of the pedal assembly that I used and willwood did the same with the pedal they had that would work

I think CNC has one that might work, but by the looks of it, you might have to move your stock under dash fuse box to make room for the MC.
I’ll see if I can find some pictures of it when I get home.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done it to my CRX... I love it too 
I've seen it done in different ways, just be creative
What I did was:
Pulled cable pedal assembly out of the car, cut off the clutch pedal completely hinge and all.
Welded in some 1/8 steel re-enforcement plates.
Mounted a Tilton reverse swing mount single pedal assembly w/tilton 3/4" MC
Ran a remote fluid reservoir on the firewall with the connecting hose ran though the stock clutch cable hole.
Ran 3/16" stainless hard line to the passenger side firewall and used a -3an bulkhead fitting.
Ran some earls ss braided line (-3an) to my hydraulic T/O bearing.
Fabbed up a pedal stop to prevent clutch damage....
That’s it, the problem now is Tilton has stopped production of the pedal assembly that I used and willwood did the same with the pedal they had that would work
I think CNC has one that might work, but by the looks of it, you might have to move your stock under dash fuse box to make room for the MC.
I’ll see if I can find some pictures of it when I get home.
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Good info

I've seen it done in different ways, just be creative
What I did was:
Pulled cable pedal assembly out of the car, cut off the clutch pedal completely hinge and all.
Welded in some 1/8 steel re-enforcement plates.
Mounted a Tilton reverse swing mount single pedal assembly w/tilton 3/4" MC
Ran a remote fluid reservoir on the firewall with the connecting hose ran though the stock clutch cable hole.
Ran 3/16" stainless hard line to the passenger side firewall and used a -3an bulkhead fitting.
Ran some earls ss braided line (-3an) to my hydraulic T/O bearing.
Fabbed up a pedal stop to prevent clutch damage....
That’s it, the problem now is Tilton has stopped production of the pedal assembly that I used and willwood did the same with the pedal they had that would work

I think CNC has one that might work, but by the looks of it, you might have to move your stock under dash fuse box to make room for the MC.
I’ll see if I can find some pictures of it when I get home.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good info
Here is a pic of the engine bay.
In the upper right hand corner you can see my remote reservoir. I also converted to a dual M/C setup for my brakes and ditched the brake booster to make room for my engine setup.
From left to right: Brake res, Clutch res, brake res.
In the upper right hand corner you can see my remote reservoir. I also converted to a dual M/C setup for my brakes and ditched the brake booster to make room for my engine setup.
From left to right: Brake res, Clutch res, brake res.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrueNorthStar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a pic of the engine bay.
In the upper right hand corner you can see my remote reservoir. I also converted to a dual M/C setup for my brakes and ditched the brake booster to make room for my engine setup.
From left to right: Brake res, Clutch res, brake res.
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very nice
In the upper right hand corner you can see my remote reservoir. I also converted to a dual M/C setup for my brakes and ditched the brake booster to make room for my engine setup.
From left to right: Brake res, Clutch res, brake res.
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very nice
Seems like someone linked something from my site to here, but I don't see anything?!?!
Anyways, when I did this conversion in 2003, I used the 90-93 Integra rear mount, drilled the two lower bolt holes a bit bigger to accept the 2mm bigger bolts and I used the standard chassis mount that came from an Enjo B series swap mount kit.
Quite a few pictures can be seen in my blog.
http://b17gsr.blogspot.com/sea...88-91
If you have any specific questions, let me know and we'll see if I remember any other details. There might even be a thread or two from me about my project back in 2003 in the archives.
TrueNorthStar, sweet looking setup!
Anyways, when I did this conversion in 2003, I used the 90-93 Integra rear mount, drilled the two lower bolt holes a bit bigger to accept the 2mm bigger bolts and I used the standard chassis mount that came from an Enjo B series swap mount kit.
Quite a few pictures can be seen in my blog.
http://b17gsr.blogspot.com/sea...88-91
If you have any specific questions, let me know and we'll see if I remember any other details. There might even be a thread or two from me about my project back in 2003 in the archives.
TrueNorthStar, sweet looking setup!


