All motor setup for my itr
what do u guys think of this setup for my 2001 itr
bottom end: 12.1:1 CR
CTR pistons .25 overbore w/new rings
new honda oem bearings
new oil pump
transmission:
JDM 4.785 FD
any lightweight Flywheel
head:
Jun3 cams
Portflow inner springs
Type R yellow outers
portflow retainers
tuning:
p28 w/harness
hodata stage 2
and also jdm 4-1 header and exhaust i forgot,lol
any other suggestions appreciated
[Modified by ihiustler, 9:50 PM 6/30/2002]
bottom end: 12.1:1 CR
CTR pistons .25 overbore w/new rings
new honda oem bearings
new oil pump
transmission:
JDM 4.785 FD
any lightweight Flywheel
head:
Jun3 cams
Portflow inner springs
Type R yellow outers
portflow retainers
tuning:
p28 w/harness
hodata stage 2
and also jdm 4-1 header and exhaust i forgot,lol
any other suggestions appreciated
[Modified by ihiustler, 9:50 PM 6/30/2002]
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If you are going to that much trouble/expense, you might want to consider a SMSP header/Carsound Cat/2.5 inch exhaust to maximize your results.
John
John
your set-up sounds good, however if you use jun cams you must use jun valve springs...and you might as well use the rest of the jun valve train.it is worth it, you will make power to 95k+rpm's!!!!!!!!!!!
wow....that seup sounds sick.....you will be really happy with that set-up with jun 3's.however i would definetly use jun valvsprings, and jun or crower retainers....if you you are going to spend all that money you might as well do it right the first time!
your set-up sounds good, however if you use jun cams you must use jun valve springs...and you might as well use the rest of the jun valve train.it is worth it, you will make power to 95k+rpm's!!!!!!!!!!!
Makes me wonder If you already OWN your R outright or if it is Still financed?
If it is owned outright then it also makes me wonder why you got an ITR instead of an M-3 or an NSX or S-2000?
If it is financed, then I say Work more on paying it off TOTALLY, THEN do the work. At least you'll get more out of the warrenty BEFORE you go into places that will affect and void the warrenty.
If you are lucky enough to own a 2001 ITR outright already then Kudo's. I just hate to see people all over planning these huge projects without factoring in a full truthful budget that will allow for them to OWN the vehicle when said project is done. Don't get me wrong, I am into modding my car for competitive events but, have found that less modding the ITR is MORE and Really learning how to drive well far outweighs a long expensive list of mods and options.
Drivers win races the car is just a tool.
Good luck,
I however do suggest: a Comptech Icebox, A well designed header IE; SMSP. Hytech, Toda, Spoon, A High Flow cat: Carsound, and a well designed catback; SMSP, Kakimoto-R, Hytech. Oh, and some Toda camgears, an Adj FP Regulator and a day tuning on a dyno.
I also suggest an ATS 4.929 Final Drive and a Toda Flywheel.
You will desire some stickier tires when all is said and done.
Anyone else wanna help this one out.
A.
[Modified by 1GreyTeg, 3:06 PM 7/14/2002]
If it is owned outright then it also makes me wonder why you got an ITR instead of an M-3 or an NSX or S-2000?
If it is financed, then I say Work more on paying it off TOTALLY, THEN do the work. At least you'll get more out of the warrenty BEFORE you go into places that will affect and void the warrenty.
If you are lucky enough to own a 2001 ITR outright already then Kudo's. I just hate to see people all over planning these huge projects without factoring in a full truthful budget that will allow for them to OWN the vehicle when said project is done. Don't get me wrong, I am into modding my car for competitive events but, have found that less modding the ITR is MORE and Really learning how to drive well far outweighs a long expensive list of mods and options.
Drivers win races the car is just a tool.
Good luck,
I however do suggest: a Comptech Icebox, A well designed header IE; SMSP. Hytech, Toda, Spoon, A High Flow cat: Carsound, and a well designed catback; SMSP, Kakimoto-R, Hytech. Oh, and some Toda camgears, an Adj FP Regulator and a day tuning on a dyno.
I also suggest an ATS 4.929 Final Drive and a Toda Flywheel.
You will desire some stickier tires when all is said and done.
Anyone else wanna help this one out.
A.
[Modified by 1GreyTeg, 3:06 PM 7/14/2002]
imho, unless you need a rebuild then don't replace stuff in the bottom end... at least here in GA I haven't seen a rebuilt motor be 1/2 as good as the stocker...
Now as far as power, ctr + jun 3 or toda b/c combo is nice for allmotor... Don't skimp though - at least get toda, sms, or hytech header and 2.5" exhaust. Intake is whatever floats your boat. Make sure you upgrade the valvetrain to suit as well... don't cheap out there, as this can end up costing you more in the long run if not done right.
Something wrong with b00st? Unless you roadrace.....
Now as far as power, ctr + jun 3 or toda b/c combo is nice for allmotor... Don't skimp though - at least get toda, sms, or hytech header and 2.5" exhaust. Intake is whatever floats your boat. Make sure you upgrade the valvetrain to suit as well... don't cheap out there, as this can end up costing you more in the long run if not done right.
Something wrong with b00st? Unless you roadrace.....
I would go with a JUN header on that set up and A JUN ECU to maximize power gains because the procesor is faster that a chipped ECU and they can burn it to your set up also I would go with a JUN header or a good JDM header depending on your price rage but he OEM JDM 4-1 will not flow enough for that set up and a 2.5 exhaust si asential for that set up. ALso I dont think the Portflow and ITR springs will hold the cams I would get the JUN springs just to make sure you dont get valve mishaps
Set up looks good and a blast to drive good luck
Set up looks good and a blast to drive good luck
Unless you have a good amount of money, I suggest that you don't go f*cking with the bottom end. From what i hear, ITR motors are built well. Rotating assembly is balanced from the factory. Doing pistons and rods is nice, but you'd have to send everything out for balancing, and that's time and money. Unless you're ready to do all of that, just stock with the bottom end you have and work on the top.
My 2 cents. Good luck.
My 2 cents. Good luck.
If you're gonna go with a JUN 3 setup, I would go with their valvetrain and cam gears also. I also heard their header and ECU works very well with the JUN 3 package. Good luck..
Jun valve springs are a must. I recommend just getting crower titanium retainers as they are the exact same thing and cost half the price. Also skip the JUN exhaust and ecu like the other guy recommended. Either get a JDM 4-1 ITR or DC for a budget header, or get a Hitech or SMPS for a very nice performing expensive header. Get Hondata for your engine management. Cam gears of your choice also. Get which ones you like best. They all do the same thing.
Jun valve springs are a must. I recommend just getting crower titanium retainers as they are the exact same thing and cost half the price. Also skip the JUN exhaust and ecu like the other guy recommended. Either get a JDM 4-1 ITR or DC for a budget header, or get a Hitech or SMPS for a very nice performing expensive header. Get Hondata for your engine management. Cam gears of your choice also. Get which ones you like best. They all do the same thing.
thanx
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no offense PH



