I have a 01 honda Prelude what should i do? ( do want to be able to pass smog when i am finished)

 

in ca if you add a turbo to a orginaly non turbo car you wont pass smog....so i hear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92hondalude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in ca if you add a turbo to a orginaly non turbo car you wont pass smog....so i hear.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually you can... Greddy Turbo kit ftw

 

if you want to go fast turbo... cali im not sure but.. n/a is def cheaper

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually you can... Greddy Turbo kit ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh yeaaaaa i forgot.
i stand corrected.
my bad

 

I don't recall the Greddy turbo kit being CARB legal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by A Blue Lude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't recall the Greddy turbo kit being CARB legal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A lot of Greddy kits are...

Edit: Good stuff Blue http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/a...e.php

Its not listed here. However the JRSC for preludes is Carb legal... so to the op Supercharge that beast.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bburtonsk8r2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you want to go fast turbo... cali im not sure but.. n/a is def cheaper</TD></TR></TABLE>

N/A is cheaper ? Counting buck for buck, what would be the cheaper route to dyno 300 whp ?? Thought so, going turbo for higher HP numbers is cheaper than going N/A to reach the same goal. My pick ... Turbo.

 

throwing on bolt ons like every other ricer in the world is cheaper yes. Building an n/a beast isnt. However I dont think you know how expensive a proper boost setup can cost. I have spent over 5k already on my boost setup and I havent even built the bottom end yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProjectBB6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">throwing on bolt ons like every other ricer in the world is cheaper yes. Building an n/a beast isnt. However I dont think you know how expensive a proper boost setup can cost. I have spent over 5k already on my boost setup and I havent even built the bottom end yet. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i don't think you realize that to match the power you will output w/ that 5k+ turbo by going n/a will definitely cost more.. much more. no matter what you do, if we're comparing hp/$, n/a will always cost more. many say it's stupid or too expensive to go n/a, other's disagree, but imo it's something about being able to say "i make 400whp.. allmotor" that totally blows away someone else who says they make 600whp on a turbo. i'm not saying turbo is any less difficult to do of course. btw no one said going turbo was cheap. cheaper? yes. but definitely not cheap.. at least not a proper setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by street_ride14 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

N/A is cheaper ? Counting buck for buck, what would be the cheaper route to dyno 300 whp ?? Thought so, going turbo for higher HP numbers is cheaper than going N/A to reach the same goal. My pick ... Turbo.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

See comment below

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ethereal2pt2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i don't think you realize that to match the power you will output w/ that 5k+ turbo by going n/a will definitely cost more.. much more. no matter what you do, if we're comparing hp/$, n/a will always cost more. many say it's stupid or too expensive to go n/a, other's disagree, but imo it's something about being able to say "i make 400whp.. allmotor" that totally blows away someone else who says they make 600whp on a turbo. i'm not saying turbo is any less difficult to do of course. btw no one said going turbo was cheap. cheaper? yes. but definitely not cheap.. at least not a proper setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You both have no clue. I'll put it out there. Take it for what it is.

On a "REAL" Turbo and or NA engine you can spend upwards of 8-15K give or take on a 4cyl. Ok now match your 1,300.00 HYtech or SMSP header price to a fullrace manifold We will be generous and say 1,300 ok so were even (but that's excludes DP). Now add a "real" turbo BAMM! 900 - 1800.

Most of the things you will purchase for NA you will purchase for Boost. But it can cost more for boost setups IE bigger injectors or exhaust (yes even the guys running 3 inch for NA its going to cost more for a 4inch aluminum exhaust and DP).

EMS can break out to be the same. But... factor in A "real" boost controller 250- 1400. Which still excludes a good BOV and Wg combo 450 -1700 ( some people runs twin Wg's keep in mind the tial 60mm WG price X2 and 50MM BOV price. There are still alot of things left out i'll end this hear and pick up in my a thread just for this I think it will make for a good topic

I can go on all day but there is no need because some people will still say its going to cost more NA. Just so this thread doesn't get to much OT i'll make a thread just for this to have a discussion about it