Im having issues with my tensioner. I have a fully built h22a, sleeved, bored, LC pistons ets, etc...

The tensioner for some reason keeps going out. (yes they are brand new, not used)

When I get to about 2000 rpm's it starts making like a scratching noise. When I push the clutch in and shift it will go away....but as soon as I get to that certain rpm....it does it again.

First time the tensioner wient out it decompressed and woudlnt re compress back out. Now its starting to do the same thing.

The shop that did my motor told me that I might have to switch to a pulley? tensioner.

Does anybody know of any reasons why the tensioner keeps goin south?

 

So I imagine you have an auto tensiner?

Auto-tensioner

Manual Tensioner= FTW

Best info I can offer. Dont forget you have a fully built engine, anything can happen for any reason.

 

Whats the difference?

 

One will you manually tension the belt the other automaticly tensions the belt. The latter one known for failing. IDK if as many times as yours has.

Buy I find it odd that you having a fully built motor dont know what the diffrence is on the tensioners

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy I find it odd that you having a fully built motor dont know what the diffrence is on the tensioners </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly what i was thinking

 

auto to manual tensioner conversion.


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=549516

 

Yes, the auto tensioners fail....mine did as well. I didnt have the time to get the parts in so I fabbed something up, but the H23 conversion works quite well too.

Here, finally made a how-to post.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2197997


Modified by 95 integra at 7:34 PM 1/13/2008

 

The h23 swap on tensionors is a more orthadox way. Your right Up I saw will probally work, but you need a **** load of tools to do it. The manual swap is easier but costs more money

 

I dont really pay attn to tensioners....big woop. Shoot me.

Everyone else...thanks.

 

There is no need for snide remarks here. We are just trying to help you.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLPN H &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont really pay attn to tensioners....big woop. Shoot me.

Everyone else...thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you evem building your own motor? Or are you paying someone else?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLPN H &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont really pay attn to tensioners....big woop. Shoot me.

Everyone else...thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont worry, theres lots of people who say the same thing (myself included)....right up until the tensioner gives out and the timing belt slips causing you to eat your built motor. Then, you start paying more attention the tensioners and realize the importance of doing it early on....previous to buying a new motor.


Modified by 95 integra at 3:53 PM 1/14/2008

 

Didn't mean any offence bud, just seems strange

 

No I didnt build the motor myself. A local (Cincy) shop did it. I didnt have the tools, place, time and patience to do it myself. Next time Im going to do it myself. Figure its a good way to learn a lot more about everything.

I didnt take offense. Sorry if I came across that way. I just never really paid attn to the different type of tensioners until the first one took a **** on me. Then I started lookin around and thats why I made this thread up. To get more info and help.

Im going to swap it to the manual one...thanks to that "How to" thread I clicked on. Only thing that sucks is I might have to pull the motor out seein how there isnt that much room to fit my hands and tools.

Now, when I was looking at the swap thread...is it better to use the h23 pulley? Would I just be better off puttin that in then addin spacers to the h22 one?

 

H23 pulley

and i definataly wouldn't pull the motor to do this. I did it in front of my garage with nothing but a jack, jackstands, a six pack and a few hours.

 

Yeah defiently look in the FAQs on top of the prelude page. There is a better how to manual tensinor swap on there I think

 

the only increased stress I see is if you have built the head/upgraded the valvesprings....the increased tension on the belt to turn the camshafts (higher springrates!) will put considerably more stress on the auto tensioner.

That and also raised redlines ofcourse......

I went through 3 auto tensioners since I upgraded the head .........they went within 1000 miles of each other.........have done the manual H23 conversion now.

its not that difficult to do with the engine in the car.....

GL!

 

and I think the rattling noise you hear around 2000 rpm's could also be the clutch throw out bearing, seeing it disappears whenever you press in the clutch (bearing gets loaded)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlang29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H23 pulley

and i definataly wouldn't pull the motor to do this. I did it in front of my garage with nothing but a jack, jackstands, a six pack and a few hours. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the diff between me and you is I have my h22 in a EG. There is almost zero room to do all the swaping out...its a tight fit with my big hands.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mervin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only increased stress I see is if you have built the head/upgraded the valvesprings....the increased tension on the belt to turn the camshafts (higher springrates!) will put considerably more stress on the auto tensioner.

That and also raised redlines ofcourse......

I went through 3 auto tensioners since I upgraded the head .........they went within 1000 miles of each other.........have done the manual H23 conversion now.

its not that difficult to do with the engine in the car.....

GL!

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I have a built head and upgraded valve train.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SLPN H &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well the diff between me and you is I have my h22 in a EG.</TD></TR></TABLE>

oh snap!!... i suppose that would make a difference

 

ive done this in an eg several times. all you have to do is unbolt the drivers side mount and drop the engine enough to get the stud/pulleys in and out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vlang29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

oh snap!!... i suppose that would make a difference </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah...its a nice fit...lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ghost 5.9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive done this in an eg several times. all you have to do is unbolt the drivers side mount and drop the engine enough to get the stud/pulleys in and out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That isnt going to affect the pass side mount at all? Seein how its bolted to the frame unlike the stock pass mount.