New to Hondas, which swap for handling?
I am looking to purchase or build a CRX for my daily driver sometime next month.
I drive through 40 miles of winding road each day and would like a fun car that handles well.
I will most likely be buying a CRX that has already been swapped, but I may do the project myself. What engine should I be looking for? I don't see too many B18cR swaps, is this engine considerably heavier than a B16? From what I have seen, it appears the b16 is the most common swap in these cars.
I like the newer K20's, but I don't want to upset the handling characteristics. So basically I am looking to get the most power possible (without any mods other than the swap itself) and still have great handling.
I drive through 40 miles of winding road each day and would like a fun car that handles well.
I will most likely be buying a CRX that has already been swapped, but I may do the project myself. What engine should I be looking for? I don't see too many B18cR swaps, is this engine considerably heavier than a B16? From what I have seen, it appears the b16 is the most common swap in these cars.
I like the newer K20's, but I don't want to upset the handling characteristics. So basically I am looking to get the most power possible (without any mods other than the swap itself) and still have great handling.
B16 is one of the easier swaps to do.. shouldnt really make a difference as to handling. But only because the CRX is small doesnt mean it handles well... its short wheel base actually makes it tricky to handle a speed. but imo whatever the swap you can make the car handle with a mean suspension setup. Koni yellows, gc coilovers, st sway bar, bushings etc etc..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the OP should concentrate on which tires to buy. That's the #1 thing needed for better handling. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed. The difference in weight between a K20 and a B18C5 is under 25 lb, so a CF hood and eliminating A/C more than negates either. If you are willing to have a cut in you hood and spend a lot of money for NA, go K20. They are the best NA option available for us, and are quite reliable. If you want the best bang for your buck and parts selection, go B-series. However, it'll take more mod's to get it up to the level of a stock K20, and less reliable.
If you want to handle better, you are not going to find anything between B and K, H series on the other hand...I'd avoid that. Think more about tires, sway bars, shocks, springs, bushings, and weight reduction. Hopefully you are already aware of this since you are aware of weight distribution.
Agreed. The difference in weight between a K20 and a B18C5 is under 25 lb, so a CF hood and eliminating A/C more than negates either. If you are willing to have a cut in you hood and spend a lot of money for NA, go K20. They are the best NA option available for us, and are quite reliable. If you want the best bang for your buck and parts selection, go B-series. However, it'll take more mod's to get it up to the level of a stock K20, and less reliable.
If you want to handle better, you are not going to find anything between B and K, H series on the other hand...I'd avoid that. Think more about tires, sway bars, shocks, springs, bushings, and weight reduction. Hopefully you are already aware of this since you are aware of weight distribution.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by STREETWERKZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the OP should concentrate on which tires to buy. That's the #1 thing needed for better handling. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've heard that if you want a car to stick like glue to the road Pirelli is the way to go
I've heard that if you want a car to stick like glue to the road Pirelli is the way to go
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TNH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I don't see too many B18cR swaps, is this engine considerably heavier than a B16? From what I have seen, it appears the b16 is the most common swap in these cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First off, there is no B18CR, there is a B18C5 and a B18C that is for the JDM Type R. They are lighter than a B16, and are the best B-series swap available IMHO. They are easily turbo'd too if you're looking for that. Or they can keep you happy all day NA. They are great track engines, and very competitive in some Honda Challenge classes.
The reason you don't see many is that they are 3-4 times the price of a B16, even though they only have 35 hp more (160 vs 195). You can turbo a B16 for less money and have more power than a B18C5. Welcome to a world of choices.........
First off, there is no B18CR, there is a B18C5 and a B18C that is for the JDM Type R. They are lighter than a B16, and are the best B-series swap available IMHO. They are easily turbo'd too if you're looking for that. Or they can keep you happy all day NA. They are great track engines, and very competitive in some Honda Challenge classes.
The reason you don't see many is that they are 3-4 times the price of a B16, even though they only have 35 hp more (160 vs 195). You can turbo a B16 for less money and have more power than a B18C5. Welcome to a world of choices.........
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GI8U2racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Agreed. The difference in weight between a K20 and a B18C5 is under 25 lb, so a CF hood and eliminating A/C more than negates either. If you are willing to have a cut in you hood and spend a lot of money for NA, go K20</TD></TR></TABLE>
You actually don't need to cut the hood with a k20. If you're adding a CF hood, get the fiberimages siR style hood and the motor fits just fine.
Agreed. The difference in weight between a K20 and a B18C5 is under 25 lb, so a CF hood and eliminating A/C more than negates either. If you are willing to have a cut in you hood and spend a lot of money for NA, go K20</TD></TR></TABLE>
You actually don't need to cut the hood with a k20. If you're adding a CF hood, get the fiberimages siR style hood and the motor fits just fine.
He's new to Hondas, so I'd suggest B16. I know a guy who tracks his dd EK, and has had b16 and b18c type r, and liked the b16 better. dont know why but you asked what we think. so thats what i think. as far as suspension. h&r sport springs with kyb gr2s is a cheap and decent set up if you dont really care that much about adjustability. and if you decide to go poly, unless you do everything, dont bother. and tires/sway bars... stb's dont rly do ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by torontoefsedan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He's new to Hondas, so I'd suggest B16. I know a guy who tracks his dd EK, and has had b16 and b18c type r, and liked the b16 better. dont know why but you asked what we think. so thats what i think. as far as suspension. h&r sport springs with kyb gr2s is a cheap and decent set up if you dont really care that much about adjustability. and if you decide to go poly, unless you do everything, dont bother. and tires/sway bars... stb's dont rly do ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
tires dont do anything?? i dunno but every track guy i talk to says the opposite. they say its the most important mod you could do to a car.
tires dont do anything?? i dunno but every track guy i talk to says the opposite. they say its the most important mod you could do to a car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PuroMotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
tires dont do anything?? i dunno but every track guy i talk to says the opposite. they say its the most important mod you could do to a car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think when he said, "...stb's dont rly do ****." He was referring to strut bars.
And when he said, "and tires/sway bars." He meant, [/i] you need these too.[/i]
tires dont do anything?? i dunno but every track guy i talk to says the opposite. they say its the most important mod you could do to a car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think when he said, "...stb's dont rly do ****." He was referring to strut bars.
And when he said, "and tires/sway bars." He meant, [/i] you need these too.[/i]
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PuroMotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ok nevermind my previous post then lol...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I could be wrong but that's how I understood it. hehehe
I could be wrong but that's how I understood it. hehehe
thanks for the information everyone.
I realize that the handling is mostly affected by suspension and tires, I was only asking about the engine differences because I wasn't sure if some Honda engines were much heavier than the others (thus upsetting the handling of the car).
I will definitely be keeping the engine NA, this is just going to be a fun DD for a really narrow winding road that I take to work each day. I just want it to have decent power, handle well, and be reliable.
I realize that the handling is mostly affected by suspension and tires, I was only asking about the engine differences because I wasn't sure if some Honda engines were much heavier than the others (thus upsetting the handling of the car).
I will definitely be keeping the engine NA, this is just going to be a fun DD for a really narrow winding road that I take to work each day. I just want it to have decent power, handle well, and be reliable.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TNH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the information everyone.
I realize that the handling is mostly affected by suspension and tires, I was only asking about the engine differences because I wasn't sure if some Honda engines were much heavier than the others (thus upsetting the handling of the car).
I will definitely be keeping the engine NA, this is just going to be a fun DD for a really narrow winding road that I take to work each day. I just want it to have decent power, handle well, and be reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My opinion for you would be a B16. But thats just an opinion.
I realize that the handling is mostly affected by suspension and tires, I was only asking about the engine differences because I wasn't sure if some Honda engines were much heavier than the others (thus upsetting the handling of the car).
I will definitely be keeping the engine NA, this is just going to be a fun DD for a really narrow winding road that I take to work each day. I just want it to have decent power, handle well, and be reliable. </TD></TR></TABLE>
My opinion for you would be a B16. But thats just an opinion.
I wish I had a nice road to drive down on the way to work.. I only drive a few stop lights everymorning(boring)... btw people shouldnt really leave out the single cams.. go to youtube and youll see some videos of NASA Honda Challenge d series cars kicking some major a**
if you go d series you will save a bundle of money a d16a6 or zc are good engines... car will be quick and fun (not as fast as if you went b16 or somthing) and will get better gas milage than a b16 but after all is said and done it is really your choice.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PuroMotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wish I had a nice road to drive down on the way to work.. I only drive a few stop lights everymorning(boring)... btw people shouldnt really leave out the single cams.. go to youtube and youll see some videos of NASA Honda Challenge d series cars kicking some major a**</TD></TR></TABLE>
My built Y8 swapped rex is gonna be real fun....not to little not to much, just right!
Gonna be doing a couple Redline Time Attack events this year....ill be competing in the Street Class....pretty fair class rules and I'm out for some fun....track days are AWESOME!
My built Y8 swapped rex is gonna be real fun....not to little not to much, just right!
Gonna be doing a couple Redline Time Attack events this year....ill be competing in the Street Class....pretty fair class rules and I'm out for some fun....track days are AWESOME!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Grandhustleman86 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My built Y8 swapped rex is gonna be real fun....not to little not to much, just right!
Gonna be doing a couple Redline Time Attack events this year....ill be competing in the Street Class....pretty fair class rules and I'm out for some fun....track days are AWESOME!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ill probly see you at one of the events. .ill be at some with crew of hatchs and me and my buddys s2k team...
My built Y8 swapped rex is gonna be real fun....not to little not to much, just right!
Gonna be doing a couple Redline Time Attack events this year....ill be competing in the Street Class....pretty fair class rules and I'm out for some fun....track days are AWESOME!
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ill probly see you at one of the events. .ill be at some with crew of hatchs and me and my buddys s2k team...
if you want a fun reliable car well semi reliable car go B. its pretty cheap and the power is alright. I love my sohc but to get it o move you do have to put some mods on it and the op doesnt want any mods just a swap. so I would just go B and get some good suspension and new tires. and an alignment. after I got new tires and an alignment my car didnt feel like my car anymore
for tops handling: g/c sleeves, koni's, s/t sway bar, jungle gym wherever your heart desires, more the merier
and some nice 15's with some nice sticky tires....
power wise... stick with the d, less hassle with po's etc... unless bar'd... very fun/cheap setup : d16a6, a1 pistons, 4-1 header, exhaust.... extremely preppy...
and some nice 15's with some nice sticky tires.... power wise... stick with the d, less hassle with po's etc... unless bar'd... very fun/cheap setup : d16a6, a1 pistons, 4-1 header, exhaust.... extremely preppy...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazykamper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">extremely preppy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PuroMotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">btw people shouldnt really leave out the single cams.. go to youtube and youll see some videos of NASA Honda Challenge d series cars kicking some major a**</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, in H4! Those cars are pretty slow. I've driven in CRX's with a B18C5, B18C1, B16A2, D16Z6, and D16A6. All were NA with bolt-on's. If you don't have a lot to spend, get a B16A2, if you have more money, get a B18C5, if you have more money, get a K20. There is a jump between each in performance, reliability, and cost.
Yeah, in H4! Those cars are pretty slow. I've driven in CRX's with a B18C5, B18C1, B16A2, D16Z6, and D16A6. All were NA with bolt-on's. If you don't have a lot to spend, get a B16A2, if you have more money, get a B18C5, if you have more money, get a K20. There is a jump between each in performance, reliability, and cost.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazykamper »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for tops handling: g/c sleeves, koni's, s/t sway bar, jungle gym wherever your heart desires, more the merier
and some nice 15's with some nice sticky tires....
power wise... stick with the d, less hassle with po's etc... unless bar'd... very fun/cheap setup : d16a6, a1 pistons, 4-1 header, exhaust.... extremely preppy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
dammit, now i want an N/A D series build.
::runs to the junkyard to punk PM7 pistons from a teg::
and some nice 15's with some nice sticky tires.... power wise... stick with the d, less hassle with po's etc... unless bar'd... very fun/cheap setup : d16a6, a1 pistons, 4-1 header, exhaust.... extremely preppy...</TD></TR></TABLE>
dammit, now i want an N/A D series build.
::runs to the junkyard to punk PM7 pistons from a teg::


