Alright, Long and short of it:

I have a milled D16Y8 head, on a D15B8 Block, I purchased an adj. Cam gear for the Y8 head so I could adjust it back (Advanced) the 4.75* to compensate for the difference in the D16Y8 and D15B8 Deck-heights. With the cam gear set to that the car will barely idle, backfire, no power. By accident I origionally had the gear set to 5* Retarded, Car ran/idled fine, but was CRAZY loud, and didn't have much power.

I know for every .012 milled I have to retard my timing 1 Degree

here's my problem:

I don't recall how much the head was milled, *I made the mistake of just asking them to basically re-surface it and do the valves etc, and only said not to mill more than .03 off*

Is there any way to be 100% sure where my cam's TDC is in these circumstances?

Its currently set at 2.5 Degrees advanced and still isn't running 100%, Originally I moved it to 4*, was a bit better, then to 2.5* and it felt better, but I know being off by just .5 could have pretty noticeable effects.

 

the correct way to do it is to degree the cam...
most people don't have the equipment to do it, but that is the right way, and it will get it set perfectly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DAneronimo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the correct way to do it is to degree the cam...
most people don't have the equipment to do it, but that is the right way, and it will get it set perfectly.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

any idea if anyone rents that equipment or how expensive it may be?

Would a tuner place such as Chicago lands "Whip Factory" have tools like that?

 

Here's how I BELIEVE it should be, I'm starting to think I may still be off a tooth or something....

 

you can buy a tool called a Degree Wheel which is made to degree cams..its kind confusing to learn at first but if u see it done a few times then its cake..i use to have to do this at school