HELP, Need to work tomorrow!! Fuel Delivery problem, obd1 b18 rex
Ok things are bad right now, I get pulled over on my way to work.... Bike gets impounded. I get back home to take my car to work.... Car doesnt work... Well Lets fix one of those k?
The car is an 88 Crx hf, B18(92) swap and converted to obd 1 using rywire. Nothing changed recently, something broke.
So the last time I drove the car it was raining really badly, but everything was ok. I mention the rain because my car is completely stripped of everything, down to the metal. So when it rains i sometimes have leaks(lexan doesnt seal well when its crap DIY) and i have no absorbtion(no carpet), so its minimally possible that the ecu could have been exposed to water at some point, although i opened it up and looked for any signs of water and couldnt find any.
After a lot of trying the car did sputter start for about a second(just enough time for me to say "Thank go...") but died instantly. After this i figured it has to be fuel. Undo the fuel line, crank into rag, nothing at all. Half tank of gas, so not on e. I have checked all the fuses(about to check again), I have checked the fuses by my left knee, and in the engine compartment. Is there a way to bypass the harness to supply the fuel pump with direct power? I do not have a test light or volt meter for testing(trying to source one).
If the ECU were bad what symptoms would i see?
Facts:
-Main relay clicks(is this for sure good)
-Has started(spark should be fine)
-No Fuel from line
-Cant hear fuel pump(dont really think i could before)
-Thermostat Ground is good
So im open to all suggestions and diagnostics, really. Even if it sounds stupid say it(it may not sound stupid to me).
Need to get from north hollywood to santa monica tomorrow for work.
Thanks Honda-Tech, you guys always help.
-Kris
The car is an 88 Crx hf, B18(92) swap and converted to obd 1 using rywire. Nothing changed recently, something broke.
So the last time I drove the car it was raining really badly, but everything was ok. I mention the rain because my car is completely stripped of everything, down to the metal. So when it rains i sometimes have leaks(lexan doesnt seal well when its crap DIY) and i have no absorbtion(no carpet), so its minimally possible that the ecu could have been exposed to water at some point, although i opened it up and looked for any signs of water and couldnt find any.
After a lot of trying the car did sputter start for about a second(just enough time for me to say "Thank go...") but died instantly. After this i figured it has to be fuel. Undo the fuel line, crank into rag, nothing at all. Half tank of gas, so not on e. I have checked all the fuses(about to check again), I have checked the fuses by my left knee, and in the engine compartment. Is there a way to bypass the harness to supply the fuel pump with direct power? I do not have a test light or volt meter for testing(trying to source one).
If the ECU were bad what symptoms would i see?
Facts:
-Main relay clicks(is this for sure good)
-Has started(spark should be fine)
-No Fuel from line
-Cant hear fuel pump(dont really think i could before)
-Thermostat Ground is good
So im open to all suggestions and diagnostics, really. Even if it sounds stupid say it(it may not sound stupid to me).
Need to get from north hollywood to santa monica tomorrow for work.
Thanks Honda-Tech, you guys always help.
-Kris
well, since you arent getting fuel, you should check if you are getting power to the fuel pump. get the multimeter out and put the ignition in the on position so the pump should prime. i believe the black and yellow wire is the power wire to the fuel pump, but i may be wrong so check it out in a manual and use your multimeter to complete the circuit to make sure you have voltage. if you do, then your fuel pump is bad. if you dont, then main relay is next in line, with ignition switch being after that.
does the main relay click many times? or just once for the changes in key position? Either way, its fairly easy to test with a multimeter, so i would test that according to the book.
the next thing i would test is the ignition switch. you can just unplug it under the dash and test the states with the ignition switch still in the car. test that for continuity according to the book and see where that gets you. if it isnt one of those 3 things, then the next thing to check would be power to the ignition switch, which is where my ability to help of the top of my head takes a dive..
does the main relay click many times? or just once for the changes in key position? Either way, its fairly easy to test with a multimeter, so i would test that according to the book.
the next thing i would test is the ignition switch. you can just unplug it under the dash and test the states with the ignition switch still in the car. test that for continuity according to the book and see where that gets you. if it isnt one of those 3 things, then the next thing to check would be power to the ignition switch, which is where my ability to help of the top of my head takes a dive..
Well as i said no volt meter(or multimeter) but as you said it is needed. SOO while waiting for replies i went out and bought one. I have tested all three wires, one of which comes up with voltage. The meter i got is crap(20$ too for a crappy analog), but i think the important part is that i obviously have power to the pump, yet no fuel. Which as you said means one thing
I have 4 total wires going to the fuel pump, can you tell me what they all are for? i seem to only be able to get power from one of them(one is clearly grounded). So i have accesssory power to one, ground to another, that leaves two that i dont know the purpose of. Going back to the car now to check voltage during starting conditions etc.
I have 4 total wires going to the fuel pump, can you tell me what they all are for? i seem to only be able to get power from one of them(one is clearly grounded). So i have accesssory power to one, ground to another, that leaves two that i dont know the purpose of. Going back to the car now to check voltage during starting conditions etc.
Update
Ok so with the aid of my roomates car(and thus more power to keep checking thing out) i found this out
4 Wires going into my fuel pump
Yellow/White line Has power in acc and when starting
Yellow/Black line Never reads power, in acc or while starting(ign)
Brown wire Connected directly to chassis as ground
Black wire Also does not read power in ACC or Ign
SO i only have power traveling to my pump in one wire period. Im not sure if this is normal or not, but i thought i would post here before i research the arcives more.
Also i was getting a good 12-14v from the Yellow/White stripe wire
Thanks
Ok so with the aid of my roomates car(and thus more power to keep checking thing out) i found this out
4 Wires going into my fuel pump
Yellow/White line Has power in acc and when starting
Yellow/Black line Never reads power, in acc or while starting(ign)
Brown wire Connected directly to chassis as ground
Black wire Also does not read power in ACC or Ign
SO i only have power traveling to my pump in one wire period. Im not sure if this is normal or not, but i thought i would post here before i research the arcives more.
Also i was getting a good 12-14v from the Yellow/White stripe wire
Thanks
are you sure all of your grounds are clean and tight. I had the same problem and it turns out my grounds from the battery were loose and corroded. I took a wire brush to them and cleaned everything up and the fuel pumped worked and the car ran fine again.
SOLVED!!!
Nice, i can go to work tomorrow!!
Here is the solution http://autorepair.about.com/cs...c.htm
Like almost EVERY other thread on this topic.... It was the main relay
Mine clicked, in fact after testing it passed most functions.... Except one(fuel pump).
I used the Test above along with a AC adapter(to 12v) to test in my room, found it was not working and replaced. Everything is great, fired right up.
To anyone else with a similar problem, use the link above and test your main relay, its a simple test, all you need is a 12v sorrce(car even) and a ohm meter(even cheap volt meters do this).
Thanks for the ideas and help(i did find the solution on yahoo though
)
Nice, i can go to work tomorrow!!
Here is the solution http://autorepair.about.com/cs...c.htm
Like almost EVERY other thread on this topic.... It was the main relay
Mine clicked, in fact after testing it passed most functions.... Except one(fuel pump).
I used the Test above along with a AC adapter(to 12v) to test in my room, found it was not working and replaced. Everything is great, fired right up.
To anyone else with a similar problem, use the link above and test your main relay, its a simple test, all you need is a 12v sorrce(car even) and a ohm meter(even cheap volt meters do this).
Thanks for the ideas and help(i did find the solution on yahoo though
)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jtmoney2002
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
2
May 10, 2008 08:48 PM




