I'm building a sleeved 84mm B16a with arias 9:2:1 compressions, eagle rods, acl bearings and thrust washers. I'm going to have it tuned on 25-30 psi but I haven't decided on a break in method yet so any suggestions would help. thanks.

 

here is an excellent thread on engine break-in by the late great earl laskey (who will always be remembered by this community).

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

I personally am following this method of breakin, as have many others with good result.

 

I broke mine in on wastegate boost. Still running strong 10k miles later.

 

I break my engine in as hard as I can. Minimum of 26psi. It usually stops smoking in 4-6 pulls. I've treid all kinds of methods like all motor until 1000miles, then install turbo, low boost, ETC. but this seems to be the best method that works best for me.

 

Definately rip on it. Since you are gonna be going turbo and doing a rebuild, break it in on the dyno.

 

many threads have been started on this topic. From all that I've seen, Breaking a motor in on the dyno is the way to go.

 

So now its either baby it and be extremely careful on start up and watch revs and boost or start it and smash out. I'm hoping to have a 10 sec. daily that I'm not going to have problems with. I have spent the money so that I dont have shitty parts but I want to make sure I do things right initially so I dont ruin what I have been working for so for a ten second daily beat the **** out of it initially or baby it? I have found a guy locally that will come to my house and tune on start up and take it to the interstate for a couple passes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboEG6OneFive &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So now its either baby it and be extremely careful on start up and watch revs and boost or start it and smash out. I'm hoping to have a 10 sec. daily that I'm not going to have problems with. I have spent the money so that I dont have shitty parts but I want to make sure I do things right initially so I dont ruin what I have been working for so for a ten second daily beat the **** out of it initially or baby it? I have found a guy locally that will come to my house and tune on start up and take it to the interstate for a couple passes.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Things are going to happen regardless of what parts you buy or how careful you are on it. Breaking in your engine the best you can is not one of the key elements on keeping your engine together.**** will happen and just be prepared!

You said you spent the money but I dont think buying Eagle rods was the right choice if you want the best.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twkdCD595 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">here is an excellent thread on engine break-in by the late great earl laskey (who will always be remembered by this community).

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

I personally am following this method of breakin, as have many others with good result.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bookmarked

This is a question i had as well. I'm building my GSR over the winter and hadn't yet figured out the best way to break it in. Thanks for the advice guys

 

crank it with dizzy disconnected to build oil pressure
then start her up
check timing
check for leaks
tune it....

all done.. no need to Break in miles...
once the motor is running the rings seal everything else will be fine.

 

I've built quite a few motors and as far as break-in methods go i prefer to do a free rev session through-out the entire RPM range as high as 6000-6500 RPM...

I start out by running the car on IDLE for a while and check the oil to make sure all systems are a go and the oil has no bearing material... There will be a grey tint to the oil as that will be cylinder wall metal and ring metal and other internally frictioned pieces...

After about 15 min or so change the oil and put regular ole BOO BOO oil in the car and begin the free rev session and holding different RPM's for a sustained period of time... ALWAYS keep an eye on your water temp and oil pressure to make sure everything is ok...

If all is good throw it on a dyno make your all your passes and do another oil change and this time if possible cut the oil filter open and make sure there is no gold or bronze color material in any oil and filter...

Again put in BOO BOO oil ( non- syn ) and drive it for about 500 miles and then switch over to 100% synthetic and i personally recomend 10-40 oil... Mobile 1

Dont be afraid to beat on it!!!! If needs to go thru a heat, load ,rpm and run time cycle to acheive good HP numbers and reliability...

Good luck and lets see an update...

 

Thanks guys. I'm going to start on pulling my motor in the next few days and swap everything to my new block. I found a guy to come tune and it should be going in a few weeks still needing 880 or 1000cc injectors and I'll be getting rid of my 440s and some other ****. Ill post a video when I get it going. once again thanks for the help.

 

what if there is a gold or bronze color in your oil and filter?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by methos713 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if there is a gold or bronze color in your oil and filter?</TD></TR></TABLE>

your bearings are probably on their way out the door.


on another note..... people break in motors ?

 

Oh, was just asking since I've never seen it or heard of it before...its always the milky color oil I keep reading about.

 

If your oil is a milky white color, its water/coolant mixed with your oil.