'97 Accord with H22A Euro R Gurgling noise...WTF!
please check this out, need help asap
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2187684
more worried about the gurgling noise, figured out the other one...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2187684
more worried about the gurgling noise, figured out the other one...
check out this video of the noise i am a friend of the poster and made this vid for him
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmEHSYimk1s
Modified by Vtec97 at 5:17 PM 3/27/2008
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmEHSYimk1s
Modified by Vtec97 at 5:17 PM 3/27/2008
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Have you tried replacing the IACV with one that you know works? It sounds like there is a piece of gasket or part of the IACV loose inside the IAC port. Or that the IACV isn't opening as far as it should be causing the valve to flutter.
Try a known good IAC, If that doesn't work I would try taking everything apart and giving it a good cleaning. Including the throttle body and intake manifold gasket surface. Clean everything thoroughly, check and replace anything that is loose or broken. Once everything is clean and serviceable put it back together using the new gaskets.
Try a known good IAC, If that doesn't work I would try taking everything apart and giving it a good cleaning. Including the throttle body and intake manifold gasket surface. Clean everything thoroughly, check and replace anything that is loose or broken. Once everything is clean and serviceable put it back together using the new gaskets.
i have actually replaced it but i will try a brand new one .. but why would the sound stop once i disconnect the iac ... does this open the valve or what... thanks
Yes, that connector is what allows the voltage to flow through and open the IAC valve. if there is no through voltage (unplugged) the IACV will close. That is why you adjust your base Idle with the IACV unplugged. If you have tried another IAC allready then I would check the IAC port that travels through the throttle body and intake manifold to see if there may be an obstruction of some kind.
so basically i should take off my throttle body and take it apart and clean ect...
or the whole intake mani. and clean ect...
or the whole intake mani. and clean ect...
Don't take your TB apart
just remove it and your IACV from your intake plenum/manifold and give them a good cleaning. I don't see any need to remove your intake manifold. Once you remove the throttle body you will see the IAC port that goes into your plenum, give that a good once over as well. Check to see if anything may be rattling around in there as well. Pipe cleaners or a small tooth brush is your best tool for cleaning out these ports.
just remove it and your IACV from your intake plenum/manifold and give them a good cleaning. I don't see any need to remove your intake manifold. Once you remove the throttle body you will see the IAC port that goes into your plenum, give that a good once over as well. Check to see if anything may be rattling around in there as well. Pipe cleaners or a small tooth brush is your best tool for cleaning out these ports.
ok so i took my throttle body and iac off... i throughly cleaned them both... and i found nothing loose or out of the ordanary and put it all back together w/o the intake on there and the noise was there.. so i wanted to see if i could figure out where it was exactly it was coming from... and there is a huge vaccum pulling on the upper of the two holes in the throttle body and if i pluged that w/ my finger the noise goes away and the idle obviously changes.. so where does that hole go... straight to the iac? or what..
thanks guys...
thanks guys...
Yes the upper is the IAC port.
Have you Double checked to make sure you don't have the 2 wires crossed at your IACV. Check to make sure that the sensor ground wire is going to the proper pin on the ECU. It should be going to pin A9 OBD1 and A12 OBD2.
Have you Double checked to make sure you don't have the 2 wires crossed at your IACV. Check to make sure that the sensor ground wire is going to the proper pin on the ECU. It should be going to pin A9 OBD1 and A12 OBD2.
actually i am not sure they are going to the right pins. see it was converted, by some one else, from a 3 wire to a 2 wire.. maybe i will switch the two wires around in the plug or i will run new wires to check and make sure...
do you think this would legitametly cause the problem..
thanks ghost a
for you
do you think this would legitametly cause the problem..
thanks ghost a
for you
alright i depined the iac plug and switched the two wires same thing... then i ran a wire straight fom the ecu pin a9 on the obd2 to obd1 harness (on the obd1 side) and another straight to 12v source and plugged it in ... it made clickin noise comming straight from the iac.... before i started the car so i started it and still there...
i dont know what else to do
btw i used one of the splice clips to the conversion harness. this is ok right.. i didnt want to cut the wire..
tia
i dont know what else to do
btw i used one of the splice clips to the conversion harness. this is ok right.. i didnt want to cut the wire..
tia
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuShiBoiiii »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just bump your old thread? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why not suck my D!CK!!!
Why not suck my D!CK!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuShiBoiiii »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just bump your old thread? </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weavertime1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why not suck my D!CK!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol i [freak]in love this kid... thaanks for the bump
If it made a clicking noise before you started the car then you most likely have the + and - wires switched.
Pay no attention to the wire colours in this image, yours may be different.

Shows the + (12v source) on the side with the connector release and the - (IAC Pin on ECU) on the bottom.
Pay no attention to the wire colours in this image, yours may be different.

Shows the + (12v source) on the side with the connector release and the - (IAC Pin on ECU) on the bottom.
see this is what i dont understand... i tried switching th pins around.. to no avail.. it did the same thing.... .. now i am really stumped... any other ideas please lmk
tia guys
tia guys
well i have been running an obd1 p72 chipped with an h22 basemap... and well i did a lil digging and i got my hands on the original PCD ecu. maybe i this will work.. it wouldnt run very well before on this ecu but i will give it another go ..
ok figured it out... i tried mounting the iac upside down to no avail.. it did not work made some more noises...i changed it out for a new one... nothing so finally i tore the adapter plate off and cleaned it up and to make sure it wasnot mounted w/ the big holes out ... well when installing i decided to try to mount IT the other way and put the iac on like that and whalla no more noise.. so make sure if using roscoes adapter it is on right side up.......
thanks johbar87 and CeeDUBYA
now its time for a street tune...
thanks johbar87 and CeeDUBYA
now its time for a street tune...
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