Having an issue where my car wont start
It's been going on now for about a month.
I'll turn the key, but nothing will happen. A faint click, then nothing-- maybe a fan running or something, but that's it. If I turn the key enough times, it'll eventually start as if there's no problem at all. Usually it's only two or three key turns. Yesterday, however, it took about five minutes of turning the key before it started, but when it did the check engine light came on. I can't afford to pay to get it fixed, I'd have to do it myself. Does anyone know what's going on with my car?
I'll turn the key, but nothing will happen. A faint click, then nothing-- maybe a fan running or something, but that's it. If I turn the key enough times, it'll eventually start as if there's no problem at all. Usually it's only two or three key turns. Yesterday, however, it took about five minutes of turning the key before it started, but when it did the check engine light came on. I can't afford to pay to get it fixed, I'd have to do it myself. Does anyone know what's going on with my car?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpetruzzo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> A faint click, then nothing-- If I turn the key enough times, it'll eventually start as if there's no problem at all. Usually it's only two or three key turns. Yesterday, however, it took about five minutes of turning the key before it started, but when it did the check engine light came on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
first thing though is to pull CEL and see what code it is.
also, we need vehicle info to help but here are some poss symptoms,
bad battery, ignition, coil, or starter.
is the car turning over at all ?? or is it clicking everytime when u had to do it for 5 mins ??
first thing though is to pull CEL and see what code it is.
also, we need vehicle info to help but here are some poss symptoms,
bad battery, ignition, coil, or starter.
is the car turning over at all ?? or is it clicking everytime when u had to do it for 5 mins ??
The car is a 97 Accord LX. When I turn the key they're is always a clicking noise and when the car does eventually start, it turns over with no problem at all. If it weren't for having to turn the key a bagillion times, you'd never know something was wrong with it.
I'll get my hands on the dohicky to read the problem code.
I'll get my hands on the dohicky to read the problem code.
Okay, the OBDII code was P0335, "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction." I'm uncertain of what that means, or how to fix it, or if it has anything to do with the larger problem and if its going to hurt the car to drive it in this condition? Boy, I'm just full of questions.
The distributor cap? That would be nice... and significantly cheaper than replacing the starter. Is there some way I can determine if that's the problem?
My '87 Accord did the same thing and it was the ignition switch. It was a $30 car so I fixed it by wiring my own pushbutton start. The click you hear is most likely the starter solenoid switching positions to engage the flywheel.
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I don't think the local experts are trying to ignore you. It's just hard when a car won't start with your symtoms. It could be many things, Igniter inside the distributor, main relay, gas pump, starter on the brink, battery, alternator. There probably are many more. So, start with the cheapest check. Check/Charge you battery to the max. Honda's starter takes more current than other cars to start. So, if either your battery or starter is weak (check the terminal connections too, I had to have my car tolled once at a gas station, it turned out to be a loose connections to the battery, stupid me), it could have your kind of symtoms. Good luck.
Alright, I'll start checking everything with the battery. Do you know if it's okay to drive the car with the "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction" problem, or can I just clear the OBD error?
The starting problem has been happening for over a month now, but the check engine light just came on yesterday after having to turn the key over and over again for about five minutes. I'm less concerned about getting stuck somewhere and more just don't want to cause bigger damage to the engine.
Yea, there really are a lot of potential causes for this result. The intermittent nature of it makes me wonder if the relay for the fuel pump should not be added to the list of the "usual suspects". I have had one cause me trouble on a prior car. It would start most of the time, but started going intermittent when I shut it off while waiting for a train to clear a crossing. It really is not fun being stuck in traffic.
If your starting problem has been going on for a month, the chances are it is not the battery or the alternator. The battery would have been dead by now if it was not charging properly.
Concerning possible engine damage because of the engine check light , I doubt that would harm your engine. I can't say for sure. Just my opinion.
Concerning possible engine damage because of the engine check light , I doubt that would harm your engine. I can't say for sure. Just my opinion.
The intermittent thing is what gets me too. Because when it finally works, it works like nothing was wrong in the first place. I just can't fathom why that would happen.
Well, make sure your battery is at full charge and see if the problem still persists or improve.
I suspect it is your starter. I had problem with the starter many years ago on a Ford Taurus. It is the symtom you described. Clicking and clicking before starting and it finally gave out. So, eventually your car won't start if it is the starter. It ain't cheep to replace it either. Rebuilt or non-OEM Honda starter are cheaper but they are known to go out again. Honda's starting system needs more juice than other cars. But then, a new genuine Honda starter would cost an arm and a leg. Good luck.
I suspect it is your starter. I had problem with the starter many years ago on a Ford Taurus. It is the symtom you described. Clicking and clicking before starting and it finally gave out. So, eventually your car won't start if it is the starter. It ain't cheep to replace it either. Rebuilt or non-OEM Honda starter are cheaper but they are known to go out again. Honda's starting system needs more juice than other cars. But then, a new genuine Honda starter would cost an arm and a leg. Good luck.
I have this problem now on my 96 LX. At first I thought it was the ignition switch because of having to turn the key a couple of times and it would fire right up. I think I have mine diagnosed to whatever relay is just above the fuse box in the middle. According to parts look up, it's just a relay. I haven't been able to find out what exactly that relay controls and haven't followed any wires yet to compare on a diagram. If I move the relay just alittle bit and turn the key, it will fire right up. I swapped it with another relay and it does the same thing.
Now that the weather is relatively warm for a couple of days, I may go in a investigate further.
Worth a shot.
Otherwise, I would just check all of the wiring at the battery and starter. Especially the little wire on the starter. See if you have 12V+ at the starter when turning the key.
Now that the weather is relatively warm for a couple of days, I may go in a investigate further.
Worth a shot.
Otherwise, I would just check all of the wiring at the battery and starter. Especially the little wire on the starter. See if you have 12V+ at the starter when turning the key.
The problem proved conclusively to be the starter rapidly going bad. I replaced it today, which turned out to be much simpler than I expected-- only about 20 minutes. Everything works great now.
Thanks for the help everyone!
Thanks for the help everyone!
wow I wish I saw this thread when it first started, my 97 lx was doing the same exact thing. Yep sir it was the starter too. also the crank sensor is on the crank at the bottom of the timing cover. the 'dizzy' or cam shaft positioning sensor is located in the distributor.
The problem with the sensor seemed to just go away; someone told me it was most likely just a malfunction and not an actual problem. So I just cleared the error code and it didn't reappear.
I'm not sure if I ended up with a rebuilt one, or a new aftermarket one. Either way, it was more than I wanted to spend (nothing), but significantly less than I expected ($350). It rang it at about $160. So in the long run I'm pleased.
I'm not sure if I ended up with a rebuilt one, or a new aftermarket one. Either way, it was more than I wanted to spend (nothing), but significantly less than I expected ($350). It rang it at about $160. So in the long run I'm pleased.
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bobdlee84
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Aug 17, 2006 06:31 AM




